I recently purchased my first sea ray and of course the first things to do were led lights throughout and a stereo upgrade. The 260 only had 2 6.5 and 2 tweeters on deck. I done away with panasonics and added 4 kicker led 6.5 and 2 8" led kicker with 2 kicker tweeters and a kicker sub in the factory recess. The planet audio 1800 makes it sound awesome except the sub mounted in the factory spot. Had to cut the opening out so just making a custom box is kinda out now unless I want a 10" hole. it rattles the seat insert to the point it makes the music sound awful,sit someone in it and it sounds fine. Anyone experienced this? If so,what was your fix?
2005 260 sundancer subwoofer add
- Thread starter Cjward260
- Start date
Jon Paul
Member
I used to have that same boat and the only fix I found was to make that seat a sealed box. Reinforce, insulation and it was fixed. Lose the storage however.
Sous
Member
- Jul 27, 2011
- 671
- Boat Info
- 2009 330 DA, Raymarine C80, Intellian, VesselView, Kohler, Sea Lift, Central Vac
- Engines
- MerCruiser 8.1 Horizons DTS
You could try to line the inside of the storage area with somehting like dynamat. Another thing could be to look at seat-to-fiberglass meeting point, maybe put some stick on weather stripping on there to insulate the vibration.
I tried the 3m stripping,helped some but still quite annoying. As bad as I hate to seal it off I think Jon paul had the permanent fix. Finding a cover that fits is the issues as I'd like to make it look factory. Thanks for input,I'll keep tinkering.
Wylie_Tunes
Well-Known Member
Can you post some pics of the woofer setup and seat location? Did you do any reinforcing of the baffle wall prior to loading the woofer in? Wall flex can add to the unwanted vibration.
Also, what Kicker woofer did you go with and is "1800" the actual amp model number or just its advertised nomenclature assigned by the marketing dept? I ask for two important reasons that are linked. 1) Kicker does not make a true IB woofer. This means, which ever woofer you went with, is not in its most ideal alignment. 2) The depth of the amp's tuning ability goes along way when pared to an IB woofer setup. An over driven woofer due to less than ideal tuning thats limited by the amp.
Also, what Kicker woofer did you go with and is "1800" the actual amp model number or just its advertised nomenclature assigned by the marketing dept? I ask for two important reasons that are linked. 1) Kicker does not make a true IB woofer. This means, which ever woofer you went with, is not in its most ideal alignment. 2) The depth of the amp's tuning ability goes along way when pared to an IB woofer setup. An over driven woofer due to less than ideal tuning thats limited by the amp.
I've tried to upload images till I'm sick. Keeps saying it's to large. The amp is a planet audio 1800-5 anarchy and the 10" kicker is the km series with a 300 max rating. The 1800 is the advertised rating which I'm sure is over rated but the amp produces a good clean sound and has multiple adjustments for sub and mids. It pushes the 4 kicker 6.5" and 2 kicker 8" and 1" tweeters well. I didn't reinforce anything yet,the mounting surface is close to an inch thick but the sides are not. I was planning on Dynamat and sealing the space and adding a port. The sub sounds great as long as someone is sitting on the seat cushion. Which my wife declined to do all the time. Lol I'll keep trying to post pics,maybe I'll be smart enough to figure it out.
Wylie_Tunes
Well-Known Member
Sadly, that amp lacks one important sub woofer adjustment that could really make huge difference.
Any kind of flex and any degree of air leaks or panel rattling can effect the woofers performance.
If that cavity can be sealed, like actually and effectively sealed, what would be internal volume? And by sealed, not just the seat base to the deck but the cavity left open to the rest of the boat. A port could only be considered after this. Other wise, adding a port would give you a ported woofer, but not a tuned ported enclosure. It would likely result in an unfixable negative.
Any kind of flex and any degree of air leaks or panel rattling can effect the woofers performance.
If that cavity can be sealed, like actually and effectively sealed, what would be internal volume? And by sealed, not just the seat base to the deck but the cavity left open to the rest of the boat. A port could only be considered after this. Other wise, adding a port would give you a ported woofer, but not a tuned ported enclosure. It would likely result in an unfixable negative.
I've not actually measured the area but a rough guess would be 12" high x 30"deep x 30 wide. I think that's a bit over kill for an air space. With that bn said it would be a nightmare to form a box inside unless your a good glass man,which I'm not. I bought the dynamat ultra light and some 2.22 mm plexiglass to experiment with. If I can't achieve the sound I want then I'll hunt down a glass man to form and mold me a enclosure. I wish I could get you some pics but I can't figure out how to downsize from iPhone to forum. Thanks for all the input
Wylie_Tunes
Well-Known Member
For an IB application, that volume is more than ideal. WAY to big for a proper sealed or vented alignment. You would have to reduce it to 1/4 of what it is now, based on those amp dimensions.
Does a seat cushion fit over that opening or does something fit into that recessed opening and rest on that lip?
Does a seat cushion fit over that opening or does something fit into that recessed opening and rest on that lip?
The seat has 2 stops that sit down in the opening and seat covers the rest. I'm thinking I can make a box to fit it'll just be a pain. I'm gonna take the plexiglass and divide the space and temporarily caulk it in. I'd rather have a dedicated box as opposed to sealing the opening and reinforcing the sides. Idk head scratcher for me as it would have to be assembled in the hole. Forming a mold and glass it is the only option I see for a box that doesn't use the opening as an enclosure. I'll post pics of what I do and whether it works or not.
Kendall
Member
- Feb 3, 2009
- 369
- Boat Info
- 2006 260DA
"WET BAR"
Generator
Tow Vehicle:
2006 F-350 Dually 4X4 Diesel
- Engines
- 350 MAG w/Bravo III
Please don't laugh as this worked for me...
Take a white towel, fold it, place over the opening and wedge the seat back in place. No lie this worked great no more rattles and solid bass from my JL10" sub.
Take a white towel, fold it, place over the opening and wedge the seat back in place. No lie this worked great no more rattles and solid bass from my JL10" sub.
Caulked everything really good,put the dynamat feather light all inside and cut,screwed,caulked plexiglass to bottom of metal ring insert,3m taped the dowls on bottom of seat and the rattle is gone. Subs sounds pretty good just not as it should so next step is to take up some of the air space with foam cushions. Thanks for all the suggestions and tips. My next project is a tv upgrade, anyone with a 05 -08 RnR the the 14"? Looked at some flip down 24" just not sure about the mounting in the same spot.
importmonkey
Opinionated Member
- Jul 9, 2015
- 1,056
- Boat Info
- 2005 260DA (sold)
2007 44DA (sold)
1989/2015 Hatteras 65c
- Engines
- 12v92TA
So, it's been a while since I played with stereos and subs, but doesn't putting foam in the space in effect make the space seem bigger to the sub? We always added fluffy white stuff to boxes that were too small.
Would love to see a right up on your upgrade. I've got the same boat and this is on my list for next winter.
Would love to see a right up on your upgrade. I've got the same boat and this is on my list for next winter.
I've got my radio guru coming over tomorrow,but from what I understand anything taking up space is in turn taking up air space and making the area smaller. I haven't added the foam yet waiting on his analysis to see the best way. From what I've measured the space is close to 4 cubic feet and I have to reduce that to 1.7 for a ported enclosure or 2.4 for a sealed. I prefer the ported for the lower bass. Just doing what I've done has made a huge difference but there is still rm for improvement. I'll post the finished product
here's a list of what I've done import,,, I went with the clarion m303 deck,it's plug and play, with a 6pin to 8pin adapter the factory remotes work also. I changed the helm remote to clarion mw4. Kept the factory cabin speakers with deck power. Replaced deck speakers with the kicker km series led 6.5. Used the cutout in arch to add a 6.5 with one opposite side. Added 8" km led above step ups. Placed the amp behind the deck. If you drill holes under the deck sink it goes right into a chase that runs straight to the deck. Had to drill a couple more behind the panel to engine compartment. Everything is out of site.
Wylie_Tunes
Well-Known Member
4.0 ft3 is ideal for an IB alignment.
Although kicker puts the sealed max at 2.4, the min is 1.0 ft3. Based on experience, I would NOT wan this woofer in a sealed enclosure any larger than 1.2 ft3. Its a little too mellow for my liking, especially if you are driving it to its potential.
Also note, that that 1.7 ft3 is the net space for the woofer and does not include the displacement of the port structure. And again, that is the max recommended. I think you are going to have a dard time revers engineering a ported enclosure. That irregular cavity is making it hard to get an accurate volume. off just a little bit and you will miss the mark on the desired tuning hz.
