2000 240 Sundancer windlass anchor set up

I have the Lewmar V700 windlass on my 270DA. The original anchor locker door got glassed in and then a seperate gasketed access hatch installed on the starboard side of the windlass - foot controls on the port side. I have a 24# Delta Quickset anchor, 33' of chain, and 300' of 9/16 or 3/4" (I forget what diameter) 3-strand line (at times, we have to anchor at 100' depth for scuba diving...). Based on my own experience, I would strongly urge anyone considering to install a windlass to also install a deck-side access hatch next to it. I cannot count the number of times that either the rode got twisted in the anchor locker on the way out, thus jamming the windlass, or more often, gets jammed on the way in. The reason for this is that the anchor lockers on these boats are not very deep, thus causing the rode to pile up beneath the windlass. This then leads to the windlass no longer freely feeding the rode into the locker. I then need to access the anchor locker and move the piled up rode to the side, away from beneath the windlass. Having the foot controls right there on the bow then allows me to manage the entire process right there at the windlass.

The other thing I would urge to install between the windlass and bow roller (if space allows) is a sturdy cleat to tie the anchor off to. The gypsy on the windlass is not designed to handle the continuous stress of being at anchor, especially when rafted up with one or more other boats. On my boat, this cleat is of the same size as all my other cleats and sits in line, right beneath the rode. Large yachts use a sampson post for this purpose...

Cheers!
 
gengiant said:
I have the Lewmar V700 windlass on my 270DA. The original anchor locker door got glassed in and then a seperate gasketed access hatch installed on the starboard side of the windlass - foot controls on the port side. I have a 24# Delta Quickset anchor, 33' of chain, and 300' of 9/16 or 3/4" (I forget what diameter) 3-strand line (at times, we have to anchor at 100' depth for scuba diving...). Based on my own experience, I would strongly urge anyone considering to install a windlass to also install a deck-side access hatch next to it. I cannot count the number of times that either the rode got twisted in the anchor locker on the way out, thus jamming the windlass, or more often, gets jammed on the way in. The reason for this is that the anchor lockers on these boats are not very deep, thus causing the rode to pile up beneath the windlass. This then leads to the windlass no longer freely feeding the rode into the locker. I then need to access the anchor locker and move the piled up rode to the side, away from beneath the windlass. Having the foot controls right there on the bow then allows me to manage the entire process right there at the windlass.

The other thing I would urge to install between the windlass and bow roller (if space allows) is a sturdy cleat to tie the anchor off to. The gypsy on the windlass is not designed to handle the continuous stress of being at anchor, especially when rafted up with one or more other boats. On my boat, this cleat is of the same size as all my other cleats and sits in line, right beneath the rode. Large yachts use a sampson post for this purpose...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

An 8 plait anchor line will function better than the 3 strand in smaller odd shaped lockers. Good advice on the cleat. MM
 
I keeping hearing about windlass foot switches on the bow; however, I have not seen this. Anyone have a picture of their setup? Do these foot switches make sense for a smaller boat like mine? 240DA.
 
Thanks MM, looks great. Now I feel comfortable enough to get some estimates for the windlass installl. Will post status and pics of the project if I move ahead with it. Unfortunately, I cannot get an estimate until my boat is pulled down from the storage rack, about a month from now. Appreciate all the info in this thread.
 
sswall1969 said:
MM - I saw this thread http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15285 which made me think there was a way to install the bow roller without moving the light. Now that I look at those pics, I am not sure how a windlass would work without the chain shattering the nav light. So, if moving the nav light IS the best option, is there anything to consider in terms of placement on the bow to be coast guard compliant?
Click to expand...

That's my anchor roller in that thread. I wish I would have just did what Jim065 did.

I tried to comply with what Sea Ray at the time wanted, and would would not void my hull warrantee.

I also had MM at Little River Marina talked into installing the anchor set up where the anchor pulled thru the nose of the bow. It would have voided my hull warantee as stated by SR. Oh well. Maybe I'll change it now that the warantee is not of my concern now, and I'm stuck in this boat.
 
i have the foot switches on my 1998 270 so i can run it from the helm or the bow, i like having the option
 
MonacoMike said:
An 8 plait anchor line will function better than the 3 strand in smaller odd shaped lockers. Good advice on the cleat. MM
Click to expand...

Well, in general, you are correct about a woven line being a bit more flexible than a 3-strand. However, once the line gets salty, they get stiff no matter what type of line it is. I think the bigger problem is the amount of rode vs. the size of the anchor locker. Believe me, if I didn't need over 300', I wouldn't carry it.

Cheers!
 
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