2000 240 Sundancer windlass anchor set up

Responding to an old post and asking the same question. I have a 2006 Sundancer 240 and would like to add a windlass. My boat does not have a bow roller. Looking for advice from anyone who has done this and recommendations for specific windlass setups. Thanks.
 
I had it done on a 2009 240 Sundancer. Will post pictures.
 

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WOW! nice job -so you bolted down the anchor hatch and installed an access-where did you get all the parts? and model numbers would be great!
 
I purchased the parts right about this time of the year from Defender.com, Miami boat show pricing. The windlass is a lewmar 700, Lewmar fast setting anchor,and Lewmar 3 strand anchor line. Also purchased was the Lewmar BOW ROLLER 304 S.S All total for the parts they cost me about $1000.00. MM sent the boat out to a boat builder who did the glass work on the nose to accomidate the roller. As you see the roller looks like a factory job. The whole bill was about $2300.00 dollars, but well worth it. The hatch does have to be bolted closed to support the weight of the windlass, thats why the inspection cover is installed.:thumbsup:
 
Other than a few issues related specifically to your boat the process should be similar for any boat. I detailed mine in a thread titled "90s 270DA Windlass Retrofit II". Jim, your install looks great. Did you install foot switches? What rode did you choose and how much chain and line? I will answer any questions I can, so let me know.

MM
 
Jim - thanks for the details and pictures; looks like a great setup. I have a 2006 240DA with the single bow nav light, right in the middle so your bow roller would not work for me. Looking for anyone who did the workaround and what they used for bow roller, anchor, and windlass. Any advice greatly appreciated!
 
Jim - thanks for the details and pictures; looks like a great setup. I have a 2006 240DA with the single bow nav light, right in the middle so your bow roller would not work for me. Looking for anyone who did the workaround and what they used for bow roller, anchor, and windlass. Any advice greatly appreciated!

Are you suggesting putting the rollers off center rather than move the light?

MM
 
MM - I saw this thread http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15285 which made me think there was a way to install the bow roller without moving the light. Now that I look at those pics, I am not sure how a windlass would work without the chain shattering the nav light. So, if moving the nav light IS the best option, is there anything to consider in terms of placement on the bow to be coast guard compliant?
 
Yeah, that nav light is going to need relocation. The roller in the other thread was not a self centering anchor roller set. In Jim's photos you can see how long the roller body is to carry the anchor. When I started my project I wanted it to be identical or better than a factory install. I had to get the rollers for mine also. I ordered it through Sea Ray. The only additional thing I could have done was totally remove the old hatch door and glass it in. Don't forget to add for foot switches.

MM
 
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MM - thanks, that helps a lot. You mention glassing in the hatch door, do you mean the anchor locker door? So, is that round piece in the pictures a smaller access panel to the anchor line storage? Or am I way off base here.
 
Yes, it would "look factory" without the sealed anchor locker door still there. I think Jim put in an access port in the deck. I opted not to do so as it is another point for possible leakage. My access is from the cabin. My cabin has a bow framed mirror that already was hinged to provide access to the anchor locker, all we did was cut out the opening and install a latch.

MM
 
So, if moving the nav light IS the best option, is there anything to consider in terms of placement on the bow to be coast guard compliant?

I don't know all the "ins and outs" of boating law, but in Jim's picture, the nav lights are partially obstructed by the bow rail stanchions. I would think that that would be illegal.

There are lots of of options when it comes to nav lights - for example, check out Perko's PDF (better than their "web") catalog. Another popular manufacturer is Attwood. Lights could mounted outboard of the rails (look for a style that would work best for you), or even mount a single nav light (red/green) on top of the bow rail by welding a small, SS mounting plate to the front/top radius of the rail. The wiring can be run through the rail.

Jim, when you had this work done, did MarineMax talk to you about the legality/illegality of where the lights are located?
 
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Yes we were going to install it on the top rail, unfortunately they told me the rail was obstructed and they were not able to feed the wires. I also checked with the Coast Guard Aux and asked them about the obstruction of the rails with the lighting and they told me it was ok the way I had them.
 
How difficult is it to run the wires?

MM

It's not terrible. I've only ever ran wires in a rail once. The time I did I ran them all the way back as that is pretty much a straight shot. It was a while ago and I forget if I then removed the rear part of the rail and drilled through the foot that way, or if I just drilled through from inside the boat w/o removing the rail. Then just snake the wires, inside the boat, where you need to go. On most, the head is on the starboard side and there's plenty of room between the starboard hull and head wall.

The top rail is solid where it connects with the stanchions, so that obviously presents a problem if you wanted to come right down the forward-most stanchion. I suppose you could cheat and drill a hole under the rail and at the top of stanchion... then either drill through the foot or another cheater hole at the bottom of the stanchion. Rubber grommets to protect the wires... silicone wouldn't hurt, either. If you kept the wires tight to the rail, I don't think there'd much of a concern of snagging the wires.
 
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YI also checked with the Coast Guard Aux and asked them about the obstruction of the rails with the lighting and they told me it was ok the way I had them.

It probably would've been best to check with the actual Coast Guard... but, hey, hindsight is 20/20.

I highly doubt you're going to get stopped for something like this - the problem I can forsee is IF you happened to get in an accident and it was then found. Again, I don't know the law - it just seems like something that would be against it. Obviously, the underlying concern is how much that rail blocks another boater's visibility of you on an approaching course.

On the flipside, the install does look really nice.:smt001
 
Like Dennis mentioned the 260DA has the nav lights on the rail. The only reason I don't like my Nav lights on the rail is because I can't mount a burgee mast there, but it does allow the Nav lights to be up out of the way AND visable. The Windlass mount on the hatch door seems to be risking a load on it and tough on the hinges and hatch itself. Does it have a reinforcing plate that spans the anchor locker opening?
 

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