1999 Westerbeke 4.5KW - Hard Starting

HighFlight2k2

HighFlight2k2

New Member
Mar 11, 2007
105
Bear, DE
Boat Info
1999 310 DA
Engines
T/350 Mag
Lately, my generator has been a pain in the butt to start. It started with it cranking for a very long time before starting. This past weekend, it actually cut out just after starting and I had to restart it. The second symptom happened once and seemed logical. It happened right after we let go of the pre-heat button.

I also found that if I play with the automatic choke (or governor...not sure) while my wife is turning it over, that it starts more quickly.

Other than changing the impeller, all I've done is change the fuel filter and oil. It has about 150 hours on it and does run fine after it starts.

Could it just need a tune-up? Carb cleaner? I'm looking for ideas before I get dirty.

Thanks very much!

Jon
 
I have the same unit. Change the spark plugs. The choke isn't automatic. It deploys with via a solenoid that is powered by the "preheat" button and an oil temperature sensor. Pressing preheat engages the choke solenoid. Once the engine is running, the solenoid stays energized until the engine oil warms up.

Best regards,
Frank
 
Frank addressed the remedy for your problem....i.e. new plugs.

Here's how to prevent it in the future. Run the generator in a fully loaded condition. Most owners use "house logic" and don't turn on anything they don't need when the generator is running. Marine generators are set up (carburetors are jetted) for a fully loaded condition so when we run them lightly loaded, the engine gets more fuel than it needs and the plugs become fouled with unburned fuel. Turn on everything on the boat when the generator is running and you won't deal with fouled plugs and hard starting nearly as often.
 
That is easier said than done. WB recommends in its manual to not excede 75% of rated output. My experience is you can not load to that level without running everything on the boat including the microwave and coffee pot which is unrealistic. You can consistently pull 14-25 amps with a battery charger, hot water heater, ice maker and a/c, but they cycle on an off so much the load is not there for long. That said, it is better to turn on the stuff that will produce some load. It does help with the plugs.
 
Sounds like the plugs have it. I'll grab some on friday and pop them in. I had read it's good to load it up so I do run as much as I can when it's running.

Thanks very much all for the suggestions!

Jon
 
I think I remember seeing what looked like a solenoid on the front of it. Is it possible that is the problem? It does seem to run fine once it starts (I'm still going to do the plugs either way). I've included a picture with anotations.

Thanks very much.

Jon
 
Last edited:
Looks like the throttle linkage that you were playing with. The throttle connects to the governor, which is the cylinder with the v-belt on the front. The solenoid is on the carb and connects to the choke linkage. Look like you labeled it ok. You should see the choke close when you hit the preheat button.

Best regards,
Frank
 
douglee25 said:
Does anyone ever run a hotter plug to help with this issue?

Doug
Click to expand...

If plug fouling was a problem, then a hotter plug would make sense. But after 9 years, it's time for new plugs. When I changed mine, they looked nominal for their age. I wouldn't go hotter.

Best regards,
Frank
 
I run mine frequently and under heavy load. The 4.5 WB does start a little sluggish after it sat for a week. I think the fuel in the carb bowl evaporates or drains back so that on cranking you first need to get fuel pumped up because mine is serviced well and even with new plugs it takes a little bit of cranking (about 5 to 8 seconds) after it sat for a week before it fires up. This only happens on the first start up after it sat for a week. Onnce it ran , it fires up the next morning on the first turn even if it completely cooled down. Another remedy is to give it just a smidge of starting fluid shot in the air horn. I mean just a tiny shot. This gets the engine running and with that the fuel pumps much faster and it keeps running. I really believe it is a fuel supply issue and that the fuel pump must first re-prime the bowl and not a tune up issue.
 
I agree Frank. The generator only had 22 hours on it when we bought it. So who knows what maintenance was done to it. For all I know, they are the origional plugs. :)

Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

Jon
 
I'm glad we discussed the choke vs the governor. Upon close examination, the choke solenoid was loose. I think it was binding. I tightened it up and had my wife hit the preheat button and it moved fine. An oddly enough, the generator fired right up every time I started it this weekend...well, except for the time we drained the batteries too low. :)

I did still had the intension of pulling the plugs and at least cleaning and re-gaping them but couldn't get my socket to seat. Do you happen to know what size/type the plugs are? I tried using my 5/8", 11/16" (might have been too short), and 13/16" sockets.

Thanks very much!

Jon
 
Correct plug socket size is 13/16. Don't use anything else. OEM plug is NGK BPR5ES.

Best regards,
Frank
 
I couldn't get my 13/16 on. Does it need to be a deep socket? I'll give it a shot again this weekend. At least I can have new ones in hand now. :) Maybe I can squeek out a little effeciency out of it too.

Thanks guys!

Jon
 
HighFlight2k2 said:
I couldn't get my 13/16 on. Does it need to be a deep socket? I'll give it a shot again this weekend. At least I can have new ones in hand now. :) Maybe I can squeek out a little effeciency out of it too.

Jon
Click to expand...

I too am having the same problem.
I can't get a socket on the plugs to get them out.

Does it require a special "thin wall" socket?
Deep socket?
Swival end?

I looked up the NGK BCPR5ES plugs and they are supposed to be 5/8" hex size.
And the BPR5ES is 13/16" hex size.
The difference is the "C" in the description.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Well, I learned something new here. I thought "preheat" was unique to diesels- I've never seen a gas engine with "preheat".

If "preheat" is really "choke" like Frank said, why don't they just call it that?
 
fwebster said:
Frank addressed the remedy for your problem....i.e. new plugs.

Here's how to prevent it in the future. Run the generator in a fully loaded condition. Most owners use "house logic" and don't turn on anything they don't need when the generator is running. Marine generators are set up (carburetors are jetted) for a fully loaded condition so when we run them lightly loaded, the engine gets more fuel than it needs and the plugs become fouled with unburned fuel. Turn on everything on the boat when the generator is running and you won't deal with fouled plugs and hard starting nearly as often.
Click to expand...
Good point but how do you load your generator for the several hours you are out? Do you just let the heat/cooled air run out the door so the air conditioners stay on?

I think someone should invent a loading device that turns on and off from a circuit that recognizes current fluctuations. This new invention loads a generator up with 10,11,12,13,14, amps when load drops to 10 amps and then removes artificial load when current is peaking at 20 amps.
 
tobnpr said:
Well, I learned something new here. I thought "preheat" was unique to diesels- I've never seen a gas engine with "preheat".

If "preheat" is really "choke" like Frank said, why don't they just call it that?
Click to expand...
Pre Heat on some panels is a simple over-ride of the low oil pressure protection that would shut the gen down. It is a momentary switch that interupts and allows the gen to start as it does have low oil pressure after sitting for days. They could name them all different or call them all one name and keep cost down. Lets re-name them "PRE-START".
 
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