1998 4.3L Knocking

These pistons are just stock 350cid pistons with metric ring sizes. My engine builder said there is no major differences between auto/marine pistons. You can use what ever type of piston you like, as long as its balanced with the crank. So by that I could have ran the standard rings and kept the cost down.

Anyone know the bolt torque specs for this engine? I am getting conflicting stories from the part stores?
 
Thank you all for your advice and information. I have finally got the engine back together and into the boat. I had a few issues with wiring, specifically what connected were. After that I cranked it and it started on the first try. It then ran rough for about 3 minutes at idle so I brought it up to 1100 rpm's and it started to smooth out. I let it run another 5 minutes at that rpm and then took it up to 2000 rpm's and let in run for another 5 minutes. It then ran very smooth. I figured the new chrome moly rings were sitting. I then brought it back to 1500 rpm's for another 5 minutes then back to idle. After those 20 minutes I took it too 3000 rpm's then imediately back to idle. I let it run for another 5 minutes at idle then shut it down only to start it right back up. It fired on the first revolution with no pumping of the throttle or cranking. The temp never went above 170* and the oil pressure never went below 40psi but it also never went up very far when I throttled up. There wasn't any leaks except for the port petcock drain on the block. It needs a new seal. No big problem there. I did have a heck of a time getting the lower drive shft into the engine coupler splines. Also when I started it there was a loud buzz coming from the dash area. I am guessing this was the low oil indicator for the lower drive unit. before I started it I filled the resevoir and watched it while I was breaking in the engine. It never got low and eventually the buzzing faded away. It never just stopped, just sounded like it was burning out or something. Is there a way to test that I didn't break that? I haven't drained the break in oil yet. I'm not sure when to change it. I have heard take it out on the water once and break it in more and the change it to change it now. What are your opinions?
 
Sounds like you made some progress. Glad to hear it worked out OK. I'm unfamiliar with the buzzer issue, but as far as the oil goes, I would run that oil for maybe 5 hours before you change it. I would change it again somewhere around 25 hours.

Doug
 
This topic sounds like a good intro for Dave Edmunds.

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqIQE4du6co[/YOUTUBE]
 

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