1989 340 EC owners

rondds said:
Mark
Some may think I'm nuts but Softscrub with bleach on a wet scotchbright pad is very easy to work with - MUCH easier than rubbing compound. You might want try a small section prior to starting the wet-sanding project.
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You know I had someone suggest ajax. Said it's not as bad a comet, but then I was also told that gelcoat is much more porous than say a good clear finish and the cleaner will not remove the pores which help create oxidation. Also was told that the chemicals in the Ajax may get in gelcoat and make keeping wax on the boat more difficult. Who knows? I do know that everyone has said "if you want to do it right it won't hurt to wet sand it" I figure if I do it this year it will get me back to square one and I won't have to keep chasing it as the surface will at the very least be smooth and pit free. Thanks for the suggestion though.
What I really need is someone who is good with their hands, and does well polishing things to get them clean and white again... Humm, wonder what kind of a professional does such a thing....:thumbsup:
 
I'm having mine detailed in the water today and tomorrow. The way it's done is from a raft tied off to the hull using suction cups. They even stand on the raft and do the gunwales.

Looks like a 3 step process..1. 3M Heavy cut w/hi-speed buffer and or wet sand with 1000 grit. 2. 3M Deep cut with hi-speed buffer and 3. 3M Marine Wax. Also we'll get the metal (bow rails, windo frames) polished as well as the port lights and deck hatches, eisenglass, etc.

I post some pics (still sorting out photo bucket) when it's done. So far what I have played around with has come back "tack sharp". :thumbsup:
 
Mark
I only used the comet on the severely stubborn spots. I didn't use softscrub on the entire hull maybe 1/3 of the spots. 3m Marine cleaner wax is a fantastic product - just abrasive enough to smooth things out and get rid of all the rest of the crud. Then a topcoat of meguiars liquid cleaner/wax (I've used Flagship and the regular auto stuff, side by side and saw no difference in durability throughout the boating season).
 
rondds said:
Mark
I only used the comet on the severely stubborn spots. I didn't use softscrub on the entire hull maybe 1/3 of the spots. 3m Marine cleaner wax is a fantastic product - just abrasive enough to smooth things out and get rid of all the rest of the crud. Then a topcoat of meguiars liquid cleaner/wax (I've used Flagship and the regular auto stuff, side by side and saw no difference in durability throughout the boating season).
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What kind of auto wax did you use? After reading all the recommendations for the flagship I went ahead and ordered some. I tried the 3M cleaner/wax, but it left spots that looked OK and some that looked like dull spots. The bottle I have is probably 6-7 years old, so I may be too dried out to work properly. I have some of the 3M polish that I will use after the wetsanding. I am hoping to get a portion of the lower hull done this week and into the weekend since it's supposed to be in the 50's-60's. That will give me an idea of what to expect. I'm now looking to just get it ready to dunk sometime in the spring and work on the stuff I can do inside while in the water. That way I will have water, power, and be able to run it to find out what other goodies may be broken or need touching up. Got my zincs, now I need to get bottom paint so I can start preping for that. Next year may be time for blasting, barrier coat and start over with fresh hull. We'll see what the pricetag is for all that!
 
p84686b.jpg
Available at Target for < $6. I too splurged for the Flagship stuff last spring and found it no better or worse than this. It does smell prettier than this stuff.

p2075008dt.jpg
Buy this in Walmart, not in West Marine and save about $4/bottle. If your gelcoat is in pretty bad shape, you may have to hit it with this a few times or use this AFTER you get the real bad dirt/soot off with the more aggressive methods. Once you get the finish restored, these are the only two products you'll need. I'm going out on a limb saying that but since our boats are the same age and made of the same crap at the same factory, it's probably a safe assumption!
 
For best results you are going to need to use a rotary buffer, doing it by hand will work but you will not get anywhere near the shine or uniform surface as you would with the rotary.
 
I got 3M perfectIt 2 polishing glaze
5996.jpg
. I wetsanded the port side from rubrail down this evening. I got all except above the forward portlight because I didn't have my ladder. I think tomorrow I'll do that and then try to polish and hope it looks great. I have to wait for the wax, so I'll only do a small part so I can put the wax on as soon as it's polished. I can tell you once the sun started going down, even using warm water, my mitts were numb by the time I decided to leave. I'll see how the sides look and then when I get time I'll do the topsides, which will be harder due to all the small areas and angles. Ron, where did you get the Hydrocoat for a good price? I have to see how much of the old stuff chips off. If lots come off thats bad right? Or does it matter as long as there is a good base for it to adhere to?
Carver, I'm doing the polish with a variable speed rotary, the wetsand is by hand though.
 
I bought the Hydrocoat at West Marine when they ran a sale. The fist two sales flyers they put out each spring are bogus. You have to wait a bit longer for the good stuff to go on sale. I also had one of those bonus coupons they send out to me every once in a while - it may have been another $10 off. I THINK when it was on sale last year, it was $99/gallon. They also will match competitor's prices, even an internet printout. They did that for me when I replaced my AirCondx raw water circulator pump. Boater's World sold it for $30 less and I printed out their internet ad and they accepted it. Not sure they'll still honor that type of advertised price but it's worth a shot.

This is a pretty good price with the rebate but beware shipping charges!
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|296162|11000|311497|368327&id=1001126
 
I dont want to throw you guys off with what you are already using but I just recently helped a friend buff out a 1987 390 Express that was from florida and probably not waxed for a few years with all kinds of scratches in the gelcoat from scrub brushes and everything in between.

I did not wetsand anything but considered it.

The process I used was the Meguiars one step compound with a wool compounding pad. This product is coarse when you squirt it out of the bottle in your hand but as you buff it on the boat is breaks down to a fine polish and doesnt leave swirls leaving a perfect finish for the wax.
41VFDE76RPL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


Followed by the Flagship wax with a yellow wool finishing pad.

We did the whole boat in 2 days, inside a heated building and it looked close to showroom condition when we finished, well besides the pitted windshield frame.
 
I think based on my experience over the last few days that it's a function of building enough heat with these compounds. I'm working in an ambient 75~80 deg. enviroment here. Nonetheless, we decided to go the wet sand step for a superior result...I figure my boat had not been touched outside in 3~4 years...UV exposure from the sun south of 27 deg north year round...in salt water!!

i considered not wet sanding but since the boat is in the water we decided to use air and electric DA's and it went pretty quick.

Check my thread in the Fiberglass/Gelcoat section.

Hey guys...this is what it's all about!!:thumbsup: The guys with the new boats get to miss out on all this neat stuff.
 
sprink56 said:
I think based on my experience over the last few days that it's a function of building enough heat with these compounds. I'm working in an ambient 75~80 deg. enviroment here. Nonetheless, we decided to go the wet sand step for a superior result...I figure my boat had not been touched outside in 3~4 years...UV exposure from the sun south of 27 deg north year round...in salt water!!

i considered not wet sanding but since the boat is in the water we decided to use air and electric DA's and it went pretty quick.

Check my thread in the Fiberglass/Gelcoat section.

Hey guys...this is what it's all about!!:thumbsup: The guys with the new boats get to miss out on all this neat stuff.
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Looks really good Sprink! Hope mine turns out as well. I'm hoping to go down tonight and do the buff out and see if it comes back nice and shiny. I think is was actually easier to do the wetsanding than the small part I tried to do with the cleaner/wax. Plus I can fell the finish when it gets smooth and don't have to worry about burning through the gelcoat. The stuff I'm using tonight won't be nearly as aggressive and I can make more mistakes without burning through.
The guys with the brand new boats don't get to experience of this stuff(yet) They just have to find places for flat screens, ipod holders, and where to mount the cupholder. They have nice clean bilges with detailed wiring diagrams, factory support, and available parts. I don't have the payments and will know where everything is, and how it works. Because I will have tested and replaced half of it!!:smt021:lol:
 
Hi all,

Was wondering if anyone could help me Re. water tanks

I bought my baby last year and have noticed that i get water building up in the compartment under the stairs and in the compartment forward of that.

After testing and testing it HAS to be a leak in the water tank.

My question is, how do i access the water tanks, and an they be fixed? Removed? or bladdered?

Ps.

This is her!

Thanks in advance!!!

IMG_7164.jpg
 
I can't answER your question bu in your testing have you ruled out air condx condensate spilling out of the tray? Fooled me on my previous boat.
 
hey thanks for the reply,

I have no A/C on board, the previous owner did a refit of the cabin, not sure if it was removed or if it was not included on the 340EC's when they shipped them to Australia (I'm in sydney aus!)
 
brauny said:
hey thanks for the reply,

I have no A/C on board, the previous owner did a refit of the cabin, not sure if it was removed or if it was not included on the 340EC's when they shipped them to Australia (I'm in sydney aus!)
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My owners manual states the following:
"The water tank on the Express Cruiser has a 52 gallon capacity and is located below the center cabin floor. Access to the water tank is through the hatch beside the head door. The hatch is fastened down with screws at each corner."
Good luck
Captain Don
 
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