1979 SRV 207 Makeover Thread

N

niks325i

Member
Nov 22, 2011
133
Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Boat Info
1979 Sea Ray SRV207 BR and EZ Loader Trailer
Tow Vehicle: 2001 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins Quad Cab
Engines
228 Mercruiser
I wanted to start a new thread since I now have my boat at home. The purpose of this thread is to document the process over the next few months of returning the boat back to its original glory.

If you haven't read my other thread asking for info about the 1979 SRV 207, you can find it at http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/47723-Looking-for-info-on-SRV-207-(new-to-forum)#post540174

Thanks to those who answered my posts as I searched for info about this boat, which seems a little rarer than the closed bow version SRV 200. Fortunately, it came with all the available original manuals.

I have begun to pull out some of the interior and this weekend I hope to pull it into my buddy's shop to start on some real work. I'll be posting progress shots as well as asking for advice and opinions in this thread. Hope you subscribe! :grin:

Nik



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I'll keep watching...glad to see the lack of a banjo in your signature :wink:
 
Keep the pictures coming. Do you have a building to put it in or are you going to work on it between snow flakes? Let us know if we can help.
 
Had the fam helping me last night. Brought a bunch of the interior into the basement since it is 20 below freezing here. I hope to pull the boat into my buddy's shop for the weekend but we will see how it goes. The interior came quite clean. There's a couple stitches that need to be fixed up before everything goes back in. I don't want them to come apart any further.


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Had a question about the engine cowling. The insulation is pretty much baked off. Any suggestions on what to use to replace it and how to go about it. The cup holder wood is coming out and I will be making a new one out of wood at work.

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Nik
 
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You can order fire proof matting from many of the fabric store around. I got mine from a local store. It wasn't a chain store like Foam and Fabric but I bet they can get it or tell you where to get it. Spray glue it on then SS staple it every 4-6 inches. Should do the trick.
 
Managed to get into my buddy's shop today to do some tinkering.

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Floor is solid as a rock. Was very glad to see that. Pulled the last seat out. Used the shop vac to get all the leaves out. Don't think I'll wash the carpet until the warm weather comes.


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Pulled off all the wood and the swim platforms to refinish. Scrubbed the transom and managed to get it pretty clean.


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Spent some time detailing the engine. Not hard when you have a motor with only 100 hours on it.


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Cleaned and buffed above the midline. Much of the shine is going to come back. The hard part is going to be getting the old decals off. Any tips?


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Found and extra prop in a storage compartment. It's in much better shape than the one on the motor, but it's way bigger with more pitch too.


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Side panels and dash are cleaned and detailed. Got the cabin lighting working too. Should have taken a pic with the lighting on.


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Back at her tomorrow.

Nik
 
Try a heat gun on the decals... just take your time and becareful to not get it to hot... I also used a good "ice" scraper since the plastic won't hurt the boat...

Have you tried Meguiars #49 oxidation remover? Used it on a previous boat ad wow it made a huge difference with less work... looks great and glad to see its a family project!
 
I assume you are doing some teak refinish since the platforms and skiwell cover are out ?
 
The quick way to remove the decal is a rubber wheel on a high speed grinder. Check out automotive tools for that. Another way that I was using was a 1" wood chisel. I first started with the chisel. It works good, but time consuming. You have to make sure that it is very sharp, just round the corners off a little. Keep it at a shallow angle and it will just peel it of without peeling the gelcoat. As I was doing this, my truck mechanic (also a boater) lent me the rubber wheel. So much quicker and no damage.
 
moparlvr4406 said:
I assume you are doing some teak refinish since the platforms and skiwell cover are out ?
Click to expand...

You bet. All the wood is out and I'll be working on that over the next weeks. Looking for tips on that as well as the best product to apply once everything is sanded.

Nik
 
Ka1oxd said:
The quick way to remove the decal is a rubber wheel on a high speed grinder. Check out automotive tools for that. Another way that I was using was a 1" wood chisel. I first started with the chisel. It works good, but time consuming. You have to make sure that it is very sharp, just round the corners off a little. Keep it at a shallow angle and it will just peel it of without peeling the gelcoat. As I was doing this, my truck mechanic (also a boater) lent me the rubber wheel. So much quicker and no damage.
Click to expand...

Ok. That sounds good. I'll check on a rubber wheel today. Thx.

Nik
 
Managed to get the old decals off today with Goo Gone and a razor blade. Buffed out the hull a bit more too. I like the clean look, but am debating whether to get some new decals made up.

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New cover on. Pulled her back to my place and into my backyard. She might sit for a bit while I work on the teak in my basement. Glad to get her somewhat respectable looking and those old decals off.

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Nik
 
niks325i said:
Wow Jason! I checked your thread. The pictures look amazing! I haven't read through your whole thread yet. Do you detail the process there?

Nik
Click to expand...

No I don't... thought about writing an article on how I did it in detail but never had a reason to... most varnish will only last a few years but I believe I have solved that problem.
 
1. If you want the boat to shine like new, buff it with Presta Super Cut with a wool pad.

2. The rubber wheels (erasers) work for getting stripes off, but on the big ones, they can burn the gel. Once that happens there's no fixing it. I use a heat gun with a scraper. The heat gun will heat up the tape fast, and if you get the rhythm right, you can literally peel the tape as fast as you can push the scraper.

3. Put bootstripes back on. Make it look like it's supposed to look (my opinion). Also, the stripes serve a purpose, the long, unbroken lines make a boat look longer.

A classic in as good of shape as yours is, will be more impressive looking like it did when it left the factory, not like an "updated" version.

You're doing great work! Where'd you find a gem that age with so few hours?
 
Pyrojodge said:
No I don't... thought about writing an article on how I did it in detail but never had a reason to... most varnish will only last a few years but I believe I have solved that problem.
Click to expand...


Jason,

When you get a chance, PM me with your wood refinishing details. Thx!

Nik
 
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