185 Sport Sputters & Died - Long Story

MarkD

Member
Oct 5, 2006
355
Hudson River
Boat Info
1990 35' Sundancer
Engines
twin 454 inboards
Boat is a new 2008 185 sport with 4.3 and Alpha1 drive & 50 hrs. Last weekend was out cruising with my 2 young children running at 3000 rpm (for maybe 4 hours prior) when tachometer dropped to ~2000 and then came back up to 3K. Thought it was nothing then it started doing it again and again, until i wasnt able to keep the boat running and would just die. Finally I was not able to restart at all. In fact when I turned the key, the starter/engine wouldnt even crank. Dead. I checked all fuses (under the dash also). Sadly, I had to use my Sea Tow member ship to get towed into my dock. That would be $750 without it. Ouch!!

I brought back to dealer (who I wont name as yet) and left it, since it is under warranty. They called me back stating that I had tripped a circuit breaker on top of the engine (This is the one next to the carb. I could have sworn I check that too. But since its a relatively new design I wasnt too familiar with it. They said a yellow lever popped out. Also, they mentioned they took apart the dash and found a loose wire. Later the mechanic said it was the NAV light wire. I told them I was skeptical about that being the issue and they said that was all it should be. In fact, they didnt bother to test (in the water) after fixing. I know that since the boat/trailer was in the exact same spot I left it. Turns out, I put back in the water this weekend and went out again. I maybe, got 1/4 mile down the water (idling, doing 1000 rpm) when I heard the same noise and the tachometer would randomly drop RPM. This time it didnt die completely and I was able to get back to the dock and put on the trailer. FWIW, it doesnt "seem" to occur when the engine is cold, again this is only a brief observation. I could be mistaken.

My thoughts are that this isnt a fuel issue. It seems electrical in nature, especially since they found a loose wire and the circuit breaker popped. I had also replaced week old fuel with new (from the local gas station) 3 days prior, so that should eliminate a fuel source. I should also note that my horn died and popped a fuse. The dealer stated that it had water in there and they were replacing it, but would send to me when part arrived. It hasnt shipped yet, so nothing was changed there. Other than that, the boat has performed flawlessly over the last 50 hours. NOT 1 Problem.

Anybody have any ideas as to what it might be, or how I should approach the dealer. Would a call to SR Cust service be in order. I dont want this to happen again, especially since I am always taking my kids and their friend out on rides! Thanks!
 
Sounds like they fixed a couple of simple things which may or may not be associated with the original problem. I would ask them to go for a ride with you - especially if it was replicated within a 1/4 mile. Seems like you could have a sensor which is going bad - but they should be able to hook up to diagnostics and pinpoint it. They may have to actually move the boat into the shop though....

At this point - stay cool, thank them for fixing the loose wire and politely ask for them to go for a short ride.
 
I have a 2008 195 Sport with 55 hours. The boat has run perfectly since I bought it in April. Last Thursday, I put 20 gallons of fuel in at my local marina. Immediately after getting out of the marina, the engine started backfiring and losing rpms at 2800 rpm and above. At low speed (up to 2000 rpms), no problem. No problem starting.

Obviously, I suspected the gas. After the motor cooled down, I started looking into any obvious engine issues. I found one of the plug wires had come off of the spark plug. Pushed it back on and it runs great again.

Don't know if this helps at all but your story sounded somewhat familiar.
 
Thanks guys. Do these boats actually have sensors? I agree that keeping cool and going about it in a methodical way is the way to go. I just would have preferred that they were meticulous in the beginning (aka test drive) and I wouldnt have to trek another hour up & back to get the boat to them. We'll see how it goes from here.

Bob.. I also thought fuel, except the first time it occurred I was 4 hours into an all day trip (maybe 60 miles) and hadnt had a single problem. Not even a fluctuation in the RPM. I had maybe 1/4 fuel left in the tank when this happened, and then went direct to the dealer. After they diagnosed the problem, I then fueled up again at the local gas station (where I used the exact same 89 octane fuel in my truck). This took 20 gallons btw. So I did have fresh gas when it happened again.

One other question... do you all think that it would be appropriate to ask my dealer to pick the boat up and trailer back to their shop on their dime? Considering what they missed and the fact that this potentially could have caused me another Sea Tow incident...?
 
One other question... do you all think that it would be appropriate to ask my dealer to pick the boat up and trailer back to their shop on their dime? Considering what they missed and the fact that this potentially could have caused me another Sea Tow incident...?

Absolutely, for warranty work, especially since they didn't fix it the first time.
 
Quick update. I just dropped the boat off at the dealer this evening. I didnt feel like waiting for them to pick it up (yes, I am impatient) :)

Will wait to see what they advise is wrong. I spoke to the service manager prior and I requested he warm the boat up in the water and take a test drive to insure they hear and see what I do.

FWIW, do these boats actually have computers. You guys mentioned sensors, but other than a sending unit (for oil & coolant temps) what sensors do they have???
 
It depends on which 4.3 option you got - one has a carb and is the Turn Key Start - the other has MPI. The TKS is basically limited to having an electric choke and otherwise functions as a normal carb. The MPI models are fuel injection and may have Smartcraft so there are multiple sensors - IAC, TPS - most likely has DTS as well.
 
Sorry, should have qualified the model. I have the 4.3 TKS engine with 190hp.
 
With the TKS you are looking at minimal sensors - oil, temp, drive lube level. The TKS is not much more than an electric choke. They definitely need to take it for a ride - it's strange that it would be able to pop the main breaker. This motor should have an HEI distributor - it could be the coil inside is getting hot after a bit of running. I had a similar problem with a crappy distributor on my old Bronco - solved that one by just replacing everything with a new MSD system.
 
I wish the coil was all that was wrong. That would be the simple solution to be sure.... I spoke to the service manager this morning and he has committed that there will be an "in water" test after warming up. I also mentioned to him that I have a digital camera .avi file with exactly the moment that the engine rpm drops (and the tach drops). I also said that I would be happy to take his tech out to demonstrate if they can not reproduce the problem. Granted, I am hoping it doesnt get to that.

The sevice manager also mentioned that there was an "ignition sensor" in this boat. Can anyone confirm or deny its existance???? If so, that could also be a path to explore.....

More to come. Thanks so far to all that have replied.
 
I believe you have the Thunderbolt V system which has a knock sensor and an ignition control module. The modules can go bad - but they should certainly be able to test it and you'll know for sure.
 
Quick update:
Although the problem is not yet fixed, the dealer has been able to reproduce it consistently. 1) He has replaced a sensor in the distributor and contacted Mercury tech support.
2) After running it again, the problem persisted.
3) They contacted Mercury again and were told to unhook the engine from the boats wiring harness (hooking up to their own test set).
4) The problem still occurred. This effectively eliminated the boats internal wiring harness.
5) Mercury shipped them another part (I forgot what he said it was..duh!) and are going to install it this afternoon to see if it fixes it.

So, at this point we are methodically going thru the parts to determine what this is. According to them, it is definately electrical.

More to come.
 
Well, I finally got the boat back on Saturday. Here's what was wrong.

The boat had 2 problems. The first was the ignition coil was going bad. This was causing the engine/rpm to suddenly drop, then recover. Once they replaced it, the boat smoothed out. The second problem occurred when they test drove it. IT wouldnt get above 4200 rpm and ~40mph. They noticed that the timing was fluctuating terribly and they called mercury. they instructed them to change the ICM (Ignition control module). This is evidently the "brains" of the boat. Once that was changed, they retested. The boat ran up to ~4800 rpm and 50mph. I verified myself after bringing home.

A few other minor issues they corrected that werent related were the new horn and drive lube resevoir (this one had a crack).

I hope that is all the problems I have since I lost at least 2 weekends.

Thanks to all that helped and made comments!!
 
Mark,

Glad to hear they were able to figure it out, although I know it must have been a pain to deal with it in the first place.

Wesley
 
Thanks Wesley... Thankfully we have a few more great weeks of boating up here. I plan to use it for all its worth!!
 
Hahaha.. yeah, I guess I did have the bigger one. But the 18'er is waaaaaaaay more economical to use and to be honest, I have alot more fun with it. It is amazing what I had missed out on with the larger boat.
 
Hahaha.. yeah, I guess I did have the bigger one. But the 18'er is waaaaaaaay more economical to use and to be honest, I have alot more fun with it. It is amazing what I had missed out on with the larger boat.

:smt038:smt038:smt038:smt038:smt038:smt038:smt038:smt038
 

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