06 sea ray 340 Coolmatic RPD-0110U refrigerator

Jaay757 said:
I just would like to pass on this info if anyone is having similar problems!!

I have a 06 sea ray 340 with a coolmatic RPD-0110U in the downstairs galley. The fridge would cool great and work as it should under shore power. However On 12Volts the fridge would not get cold. You could here the fan running and it sounded like the compressor was running but not cold. I figured it was time to get to the bottom of this problem as I could not use my cockpit beer fridge and cooler for food any more while on the hook. I contacted Dometic who now owns coolmatic. This was the response I received:

The only difference in running it on AC power vs DC power is the power source (110 vs 12vdc) and the power supply. What you can do, is bypass the power supply, and run your DC power directly to the Danfoss module. If the compressor does not run then, then it is a voltage problem in the boat, and you'll have to trace the wiring to find where the voltage drop is occuring. If it does run, you'll have to replace the power supply.


Customer Service Technician

So I did the above and found the fridge to cool great when directly wired into the 12V source for the power supply. so great, I ordered a new power supply. This fridge had an Waeco/Mobitronic MPS-35. I received the new power supply hooked it up and again fridge would not cool. compressor would try to start for approx 5-10 seconds and shut off. The fan runs great. I disconnected the power supply and hard wired the fridge again and no problem runs great.

So I contacted Dometic again and they sent me a bigger power supply MPS-50. Hooked it up to the fridge and whoola fridge has been running on 12v and cold as ever now for 2 days.

It appears that the MPS-35 power supply with an output of 2 amps is inadequate to run this fridge compressor on 12V. The MPS-50 with a higher output seems to do the job.

I have a friend with the same year boat and model fridge that has the same problem, so this is evidently an issue.
Click to expand...
Has anyone replaced this RPD-0110U with a different refrigerator? Please let me know if you have any recommendations. Thanks!
 
Not to revive an old thread, or old (possibly bad) memories, but as anyone find a permanent solution to these crappy fridge problem? Been having issues with this fridge for a few years, even replaced the power module with the recommended MPS 50 and still having issues. When connected to shore, or running the gennie, the MPS module gets the nice 120v and supply 24v to the compressor. But when on the hook for a while and the batteries drop below 12.4v, the MPS module only supply 11.4v to the compressor and when the compressor tries to start the MPS will drop the output voltage to 9v but still keep 12-12.5v on the input. So I'm now running the fridge with a dedicated 500w inverter and it does not draw much more power from the batteries.

Anyone have a recommended replacement solution for a more efficient fridge that would fit the same dimensions?

Thanks
Pat...
 
Yes, I fought the same battle, and the replacement MPS-50 only worked for a while. So I gave up and replaced the same refrigerator as you with an Isotherm Cruise 130. See the Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread, post #2502 for a picture of my finished install. Not too bad; a 2-beer project for change-out (the opening in the cabinet needs to be slightly enlarged)
I am very happy with the Isotherm. The power consumption is way less than the Weaco on 12v power (when the Weaco worked). And it is more quiet.
 
Thank you, I'll look into it for the off season project. I also have to look into replacing my holding which my marina blew out with a pump out gone bad.
 
Thank you all for these posts. Just purchased a 2006 340 Sundancer and my wife called today to say, "Cockpit refrigerator not cooling." :)
 
LClifton said:
Thank you all for these posts. Just purchased a 2006 340 Sundancer and my wife called today to say, "Cockpit refrigerator not cooling." :)
Click to expand...

I have the same boat and the cockpit frig is a Norcold..Take the simple steps first:
Is the refrig running - there is a green light on the temperature contol knob if it's getting power.
Are the circuit breakers set in the right position?
Does it run on DC but not AC voltage?
The more we know, the more likely we can help!
 
Windjammer said:
I have the same boat and the cockpit frig is a Norcold..Take the simple steps first:
Is the refrig running - there is a green light on the temperature contol knob if it's getting power.
Are the circuit breakers set in the right position?
Does it run on DC but not AC voltage?
The more we know, the more likely we can help!
Click to expand...

Well, we haven't taken possession yet.
*Refrig is running. It makes a bit of noise though.
*The green light is on.
*I don't know if the switches are in the right position but according to the owner he marked the ones inside the cabin that should be on / stay on.
*My assumption is that the circuit breakers are in the right position or it wouldn't be on to start with? But I don't know.
Is there perhaps something else to look at regarding circuit breakers?
*Our cockpit frig is a Norcold. DE0040.
*Does it run on DC but not AC.....this one I do not know and haven't looked up the model number as yet to see....if I'm understanding the question. Is it designed to run on both? If so, it's hooked to shore power now...would there be a switch that you flip to convert from DC to AC or is this done automatically ? I ask because I don't have a clue....yet.
 
LClifton said:
Well, we haven't taken possession yet.
*Refrig is running. It makes a bit of noise though.
*The green light is on.
*I don't know if the switches are in the right position but according to the owner he marked the ones inside the cabin that should be on / stay on.
*My assumption is that the circuit breakers are in the right position or it wouldn't be on to start with? But I don't know.
Is there perhaps something else to look at regarding circuit breakers?
*Our cockpit frig is a Norcold. DE0040.
*Does it run on DC but not AC.....this one I do not know and haven't looked up the model number as yet to see....if I'm understanding the question. Is it designed to run on both? If so, it's hooked to shore power now...would there be a switch that you flip to convert from DC to AC or is this done automatically ? I ask because I don't have a clue....yet.
Click to expand...
If the green light is on, it's getting power, and it sounds like the breakers are set correctly. If AC power is available (either dockside or generator), frig will use this first. No AC power detected, it will run on DC.
As far as not cooling, there is a thermostat replacement - I think it's called a thermistor, for about $35 that might fix this. I don't think compressors/evaporators are still available, so you might be looking at a new frig.
 
I just had a similar experience with my cabin refrigerator. Two year old Isotherm. It wasn’t cooling all the time. Some days it was cool. Other days not. The issue was that little 12v fan that cools the compressor would sometimes not start. Once you manual spun fan it began cooling. Most likely a little dust in fan. Anyway replaced with new fan for $10. Good as new. There are lots of reasons it may not be cooling for you but this was one reason for mine.
 
Hi all
Does anyone know where I can buy the freezer door inside the fridge from?
My has broken off completely
Cheers
 
Does anyone know the specifics of this system? My galley fridge started out by sometimes not working on 12v, only on shore power or generator. Now it is all the way down to not working at all. When I pulled it out, there were only two wires feeding it. I measured 11.8v DC on those wires. I did not see any AC input anywhere, and the wires just disappeared back into the wall behind the fridge. Schematic and owners manual all say it should have both 12v DC and 110v AC. Read through the information on replacing power supply...but where is that? Any guidance is appreciated.
 
Answering this here for anyone else that may come across it. Looking further, there was actually a 110v outlet nestled up in the back left corner up high. Seems the PO had simply unplugged and removed the MPS power supply and ran the 12V lines directly to the fridge. I metered the outlet, and it did indeed only have power when the AC refrigerator panel switch was turned on. I put in an MPS50, rerouted the wires to that, and then to the fridge, and the power setup was back to functioning. I also replaced the Danforth 101N0220 with a 101N0212 from Amazon. Now my fridge is working as designed.
 
TheBobC said:
Answering this here for anyone else that may come across it. Looking further, there was actually a 110v outlet nestled up in the back left corner up high. Seems the PO had simply unplugged and removed the MPS power supply and ran the 12V lines directly to the fridge. I metered the outlet, and it did indeed only have power when the AC refrigerator panel switch was turned on. I put in an MPS50, rerouted the wires to that, and then to the fridge, and the power setup was back to functioning. I also replaced the Danforth 101N0220 with a 101N0212 from Amazon. Now my fridge is working as designed.
Click to expand...


This is interesting to me as our cockpit refrigeration suddenly stopped working.
 
So old thread I know BUT - I am looking for a freezer door for my new (to me) boat. I am wondering if you guys who have replaced the fridge have the old one laying around? My door has a stuck pivot and has cracked the thin plastic that holds the left side of the square spring loaded pivot.

Hoping some here has the old unit before it hits the trash...


06 sea ray 340 Coolmatic RPD-0110U refrigerator
 
boatrboy said:
So old thread I know BUT - I am looking for a freezer door for my new (to me) boat. I am wondering if you guys who have replaced the fridge have the old one laying around? My door has a stuck pivot and has cracked the thin plastic that holds the left side of the square spring loaded pivot.

Hoping some here has the old unit before it hits the trash...


06 sea ray 340 Coolmatic RPD-0110U refrigerator
Click to expand...


My freezer door is broken as well which causes the fridge to work extra hard on power.
There must be some part somewhere :(
 
Korkie said:
If you cannot find one, maybe one can be made with a #D printer using the old one as a template.
Click to expand...
Understood, I have two printers in my lab here at work but this requires some torsion spring assembly in the door and insulation etc. I am hoping not to make a major project out of it and find one :)
 
boatrboy said:
Understood, I have two printers in my lab here at work but this requires some torsion spring assembly in the door and insulation etc. I am hoping not to make a major project out of it and find one :)
Click to expand...

you would think a common problem and easy part to find
 
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