06 sea ray 340 Coolmatic RPD-0110U refrigerator

Jaay757

Member
Jun 18, 2012
141
Buzzards Bay, Mass
Boat Info
2006 sea ray 340 sundancer (sold)
Engines
8.1's, ZF IV V drives
I just would like to pass on this info if anyone is having similar problems!!

I have a 06 sea ray 340 with a coolmatic RPD-0110U in the downstairs galley. The fridge would cool great and work as it should under shore power. However On 12Volts the fridge would not get cold. You could here the fan running and it sounded like the compressor was running but not cold. I figured it was time to get to the bottom of this problem as I could not use my cockpit beer fridge and cooler for food any more while on the hook. I contacted Dometic who now owns coolmatic. This was the response I received:

The only difference in running it on AC power vs DC power is the power source (110 vs 12vdc) and the power supply. What you can do, is bypass the power supply, and run your DC power directly to the Danfoss module. If the compressor does not run then, then it is a voltage problem in the boat, and you'll have to trace the wiring to find where the voltage drop is occuring. If it does run, you'll have to replace the power supply.

Customer Service Technician


So I did the above and found the fridge to cool great when directly wired into the 12V source for the power supply. so great, I ordered a new power supply. This fridge had an Waeco/Mobitronic MPS-35. I received the new power supply hooked it up and again fridge would not cool. compressor would try to start for approx 5-10 seconds and shut off. The fan runs great. I disconnected the power supply and hard wired the fridge again and no problem runs great.

So I contacted Dometic again and they sent me a bigger power supply MPS-50. Hooked it up to the fridge and whoola fridge has been running on 12v and cold as ever now for 2 days.

It appears that the MPS-35 power supply with an output of 2 amps is inadequate to run this fridge compressor on 12V. The MPS-50 with a higher output seems to do the job.

I have a friend with the same year boat and model fridge that has the same problem, so this is evidently an issue.

 
The power supply is attached to the rear of the fridge with Velcro. You have to remove the screws around the trim plate on the front of the fridge and pull out the fridge. It is an easy task. There is enough 110 volt and 12 volt wiring to pull it all the way out onto the cabin floor.

After speaking with the service tech at dometic for the second time when he recommended the larger power supply, I did get the impression that they were aware of the problem on certain fridges.
 
I have the exact same issue with my WAECO CR-50 fridg. I spoke with tech support a couple months ago and they had me waste $340 on a ECM that did nothing. I just ordered the MPS 50 and will let you know what my results are. Really appreciate the heads up.

Peter
 
I just had the dealer fix mine recently. Sounds like the same issue, but I don't have all the specifics of what they did yet. I will post more when I have the specifics.
 
UGH!!! I wish I saw this thread 4 weeks ago. I too just experienced the same thing. I bought a new fridge and installed it last weekend. I brought my old one home and have it in garage. I too was looking at the MPS-50 online yesterday. The Dometic tech told me the same thing and not to go with the MPS-35 but to purchase the MPS-50. I'm going to do that and see if it runs... If so, I'll have a fridge to sell...
 
Cannot tell you how much I appreciate this. I also have an 06 340 DA and have had a marine electrician look at my fridge twice because it just wasn't getting cold when running on battery power. The marine electrician gave it a clean bill of health both times..but this past week I noticed contents were not staying cold. I'm going to purchase a MPS-50 AC Power Adapter for my Coolmatic Unit and I'm very hopeful it will fix the problem once and for all. By the way, the MPS-50 unit is available on Amazon.com for $61.67 - a bargain if it fixes this vexing problem. Thanks again.
I just would like to pass on this info if anyone is having similar problems!!

I have a 06 sea ray 340 with a coolmatic RPD-0110U in the downstairs galley. The fridge would cool great and work as it should under shore power. However On 12Volts the fridge would not get cold. You could here the fan running and it sounded like the compressor was running but not cold. I figured it was time to get to the bottom of this problem as I could not use my cockpit beer fridge and cooler for food any more while on the hook. I contacted Dometic who now owns coolmatic. This was the response I received:

The only difference in running it on AC power vs DC power is the power source (110 vs 12vdc) and the power supply. What you can do, is bypass the power supply, and run your DC power directly to the Danfoss module. If the compressor does not run then, then it is a voltage problem in the boat, and you'll have to trace the wiring to find where the voltage drop is occuring. If it does run, you'll have to replace the power supply.

Customer Service Technician


So I did the above and found the fridge to cool great when directly wired into the 12V source for the power supply. so great, I ordered a new power supply. This fridge had an Waeco/Mobitronic MPS-35. I received the new power supply hooked it up and again fridge would not cool. compressor would try to start for approx 5-10 seconds and shut off. The fan runs great. I disconnected the power supply and hard wired the fridge again and no problem runs great.

So I contacted Dometic again and they sent me a bigger power supply MPS-50. Hooked it up to the fridge and whoola fridge has been running on 12v and cold as ever now for 2 days.

It appears that the MPS-35 power supply with an output of 2 amps is inadequate to run this fridge compressor on 12V. The MPS-50 with a higher output seems to do the job.

I have a friend with the same year boat and model fridge that has the same problem, so this is evidently an issue.

 
I'm having an issue with the coolmatic waeco (dometec) fridge on my 340 not getting very cool at all. The freezer works great and but the refrigerator is basically warm. Makes no difference whether on shore power or not. I have tried to defrost the thing and start over but I get the same results. Anyone trouble shoot this?

Going to live with it for this season but will need to get it resolved over the winter. Any ideas??
 
I'm having an issue with the coolmatic waeco (dometec) fridge on my 340 not getting very cool at all. The freezer works great and but the refrigerator is basically warm. Makes no difference whether on shore power or not. I have tried to defrost the thing and start over but I get the same results. Anyone trouble shoot this?

Going to live with it for this season but will need to get it resolved over the winter. Any ideas??
Zorba, I am having the exact same problem as you with my galley fridge ( same model) . I will be interested in seeing if anyone has solved this issue yet.
 
My Coolmatic MPS-35 has a fairly large capacitor wired into it. is that normal?
 
Just to give an update, I will have to say a cold fridge on the hook this year has been a big change. The wife was so happy!
This fix was one of the best I have made. A fellow 06 340 owner at our marina just made this change and his fridge is also cold now while on batteries.
 
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I tried the MPS-50 and it did nothing for my fridge. RecentlyI purchased a battery charger and a gel 12v battery and now have a captive DC power source solely for the fridg. Seems to be better but the bottom line is these fridgs suck.

Peter
 
The more I read the more I just want to replace this thing. Does anyone have a replacement p/n for a different brand?
 
I replaced the power supply and that didn't do anything. I had a fridge guy come down and he sait its a voltage issue. DC keeps it cool, AC does not. I changd the wire to a thicker gauge coming from the power supply and that didn't do anything either. if anyone has a solution please provide. Thanks
 
Not exactly the same thing but my WAECO Coolmatic model RPF-50 freezer stopped working. Cycles on for a few seconds and then shuts down. Had it looked at by 3 different shops and nobody seems to have a clue. They're discontinued and I can't find a replacement anywhere. No other brands fit the opening correctly and will look like crap sitting next to the refrigerator right next to it.

If anyone has had the same issue or can give me some advise please let me know.
 
I've been told that these units are designed to cycle on and off fairly often, I know mine does. All I can tell you is that I put in a dedicated battery and an AC charger along with 12 gauge wire and that seemed to do the trick for me. The only other thing I would mention is that the inside knob to select cooling temp is very very delicate. Too far in either direction and the unit fails. Select the center detent setting and see if that helps. I believe these units are very sensitive to drops in voltage and the OEM wiring from SeaRay often is not sufficient. You could rewire all the way to the panel, but if you have room for a battery, it was a pretty cheap and easy fix.

Peter
 
I had this exact problem and the drip tray was in backwards. It's cut off the cold air to the fridge. Turned it around and worked like a charm
 
Zorba, I am having the exact same problem as you with my galley fridge ( same model) . I will be interested in seeing if anyone has solved this issue yet.
I had this exact problem and the drip tray was in backwards. It's cut off the cold air to the fridge. Turned it around and worked like a charm
 
sea ray 340 Coolmatic RPD-0110U refrigerator

I'm having an issue with my Waeco Coolmatic RPD-0110. Its the original fridge that came with the boat but I haven't used it much since we purchased the boat in 2011. The cockpit ice maker works fine and cools down. However, the inside fridge doesn't do anything except has its interior light on. I have tried the fridge on both 12V and generator power. I'm on the hook so I can't hook it to shore power but I assume the generator will supply the same 110V. I pulled the fridge out and I'm a bit mystified........Everything appears perfectly fine. I bought myself an MPS 50 power supply after thoroughly researching the topic here on the site. However, my problem seems a bit more daunting since I'm not getting ANY sound from the compressor on either voltage. However, and this could be my imagination, I felt that when I had the power on fro a period of time the compressor "seemed" to be more cold than what I would have expected. It is made of metal so it could of been my imagination but it's a finding so I want to post it. The reason I didn't push right into the swap out of the power supply is due to the fact that I measured 24V at the circuit board input. That's exactly what is supposed to be being put out by the power supply. I disassembled the circuit board and, at least tome, it appears like the day it came out of the factory. I realize that can mean nothing but to not be getting a peep seems strange. Can anyone tell me if there is an external fuse I may be missing? On the plastic housing of the circuit board there is an embossed lettering stating "must be pre-fused". I'm wondering where that might be. I'd assume the inside refrigerator light wouldn't be working either if it was a fuse problem but I'm trying to cover anything I can. Can anyone help or guide me....................
 
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