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I talked with a few repair places and all 3 said I should use 3M marine premium filler with vinyl-ester , I'll let you all know how it turns out , Thanks for all the help

Thanks , I really appreciate your help ,

So what would you recommend to use just to fill in some cracks, since it is going to be painted over I really don’t care what color it is I looked up marine tex and it sounds like basically the same thing you that you can use on fiberglass metal etc. etc.

I apologize for not telling the location, that picture is from the ground looking straight up under the boat right in front of the port trim tab, so it is on the bottom of the boat , I currently have the boat on blocks and have sanded the entire hull because previous owner did not bottom painted...

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers on how to repair this, I plan on just grinding out the cracks with a Dremel and using JB Weld marine weld to fill in and sand afterwards, then I am applying three coats of Seahawk tough stuff barrier coat over it, does that sound...

Here’s a picture of the inside contacts on both solenoid’s One was still working, one worked most of the time .. Just posting for info sake, I think I will change the 2 on the port side pretty soon

Yep, he said it right, my brother had an alarm going off last year on a chaparral 240 that I sold him, I told him to check the drive oil lube monitor sure enough it was low added some gearlube and alarm turned off

From everything I’ve been reading on forums, it sounds like I have a bad solenoid on the up/out trim ,before I pull out my waste holding tank and suction tank to access the solenoid I was wondering if anyone had any info on the best solenoid to put back in, I don’t care how much I just don’t...

Sorry, I thought you meant the flat piece,I have no idea what that tube thing is for ,maybe gen 1 ?

I have a 2000 Sea Ray 270 DA, and mine are only on the top with a stainless screw coming up through the bottom, FWIW if you’re in freshwater you don’t even need them because they are stainless steel

Thanks, I guess I was not sure on how the thrust washer actually works, if it is supposed to be able to spin separate from the shaft or not so I was not sure I will put some grease on it, thanks

I use Mobil delvac 15w40 conventional mostly cause I get it for $35 a 5 gal pail (after rebate) and use it in my tractors and F350 If you use synthetic make sure you check it often Wix makes a nice tall filter too...

Is grease required on the thrust washer or just on the splines Flo torque II ,my manual does not say it just says grease splines Thanks

Yes , look at the diagram posted above. Make sure you don't have a mercathode on there

Yep , I tried reverse bits and easy outs ,no dice ,ended up drilling and tapping a new hole next to it ,that stainless screw must have become one with the aluminum,thanks

Question, I was trying to remove a broken bonding cable going from My gimbal housing to the outdrive and the screw snapped off on the bottom of the gimbal ring, I don’t think I can get up out, is it OK just to drill and tap a new hole next to it, it is just for grounding, right?

Well now I know why it would not fit,I have a mercathode system on there. Doh...

Go easy on those bolts when you take them out, lots of penetrating fluid and tap tap tap lightly to break the threads lose, or you will snap it off and good luck getting it out, I had one snapped off under my prop and it is a real pain, needless to say the easy out tip that broke off when I was...

Thanks

Can anyone tell me how to mount this on my alpha one drive, and where does the spacer ago, I went to change my anodel ion my new to me boat and it does not have one of these on there but it came in the kit that I just bought