Sublimetime
Active Member
A tanks top should not expand unless you are totally over filling. The sides yes, the top no.
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Fireball1Ricochet,, do you have the specs for your new tank? Did you have them put the fill, vent, etc in the same location as the stock tank? I need to get one ordered..
Fireball1Ricochet,, do you have the specs for your new tank? Did you have them put the fill, vent, etc in the same location as the stock tank? I need to get one ordered..
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Fireball1
I found the drawing I sent them, the only difference is the pick-up they provide is 3/4'' not 1/2'' as shown in the drawing.
Dura Weld contact info:
Gareth
Dura Weld
3599 23rd Ave S, #9
Lake Worth, FL 33461
561-586-0180 Office
561-586-0181 Fax
www.dura-weld.com
www.plasticfabricatedtanks.com
FireballQuestion? Why is there not a bilge pump in the location of the freshwater tank? Would make sense to me to have one in that location given it is a catch all from the rest of the potential overflows. Any thoughts on putting one in that area?
Fireball
After you remove the tank you might want to cut an access hole in the subfloor below the tank, if you have not done this already you will most likely find some water. Use a 4 1/2'' hole saw which will allow you to install a 4'' West Marine access plate, you will have to cut out the foam to cut to the bottom of the hull. you can see in the photo the hole I cut.
How many inches between the sub-floor under the tank and the surface of the hull? Also, what is the box above the airrr box in your picture? Did you put bilge pump in the hole? How can you access in the tank is in place for later viewing without taking everything apart? Oh,, and what Teak floor did you go with? Looks great,, Thanks for the help and ideas.
There is about 6-8'' between the sub-floor and the hull it is filled with foam, the new tank will be installed about 6'' from the wall so I can access a water tight access plate and remove any water with a shop-vac, I have had one installed in front of the tank for about ten years, when I first installed it there was water and every once in awhile I still find a small amount. You will want to keep the covers on them in case your shower sump or a water line ever fails. I have also installed one in front and back of the generator in the bilge, some water at first and once in awhile now. You can cut out the foam with a hack saw blade. The box you see is my battery charger, when I replaced it I installed it there for ease of installation. The vinyl floor is Plasteak its been in about 8 or 9 years its been great, however, I just removed it and will be installing the new E-Z boat sole plank flooring that Plasteak makes in the entire cabin. I decided to do that after I cut the floor out for the tank, I would have cut the floor a little different as I was trying to save the vinyl at that point.[/QU
I will have to do the same on the access plates for sure. I was looking at Plasteak. I am going to use it down below and Deckadence on the top side. I didn't know there was enough depth between floor layers in front and behind the generator to cut an access hole. You wouldn't happen to have a couple pictures of yours would you? I notice everyone talks about cutting out the foam, but should foam be put back in? Was it used as a noise barrier? Great spot for the battery charger. Thanks Ricochet
Fireball1
Here are photos of access holes in bilge. Foam was just for sound no need to replace.
Fireball1
I agree with hottoddie about the clamps, cannot tell from the photos if you had any water under the floor?, depending on the attitude of how the boat is set you may see some water after you launch in the spring.