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Discussion in 'Classic Sea Rays' started by electricaldoctor, May 19, 2009.
A tanks top should not expand unless you are totally over filling. The sides yes, the top no.
Ricochet,, do you have the specs for your new tank? Did you have them put the fill, vent, etc in the same location as the stock tank? I need to get one ordered..
My original tank was not made of steel. It was aluminum. When I pulled it several years ago, I found a few pin hole leaks, so I had the tank dipped in an acid solution prior to welding up the leaks. I then had the tank double coated with "Linex". This is the material that they spray pickup truck bed liners with. Prior to reinstalling the tank, I installed strips of starboard spaced every 10" to keep the tank off the bottom. End of problem!!
When I removed the tank I did not want to remove the settee and the wall around the refrigerator so I only cut out part of the floor, I had to cut the tank in half to remove it, the largest tank I could get back in could only be 55'' long....so I settled on a new tank 11''x27''x55'', Dura Weld was able to put the fittings where I wanted them based on a drawing I gave them basically where they were originally.
I found the drawing I sent them, the only difference is the pick-up they provide is 3/4'' not 1/2'' as shown in the drawing.
Dura Weld contact info:
3599 23rd Ave S, #9
Lake Worth, FL 33461
You should use a layer of that rubber deck floor squares, that you have there in the storage hatch, under the new water tank. It allows air and any water that might get in there (the tanks tend to sweat a bit when filled with cold water in a warm humid bilge, and collect water under them)to circulate all around tank. And they are plenty strong enough to support the weight of the filled tank.
Awesome!! Thanks so much Ricochet! I had some time today so I ran up to the boat. I pulled the refrigerator and steps out. I was able to verify that the tank was for sure the original. I also was able to look beside the tank in a small space behind the refrigerator. I could see about 1/2 deep frozen tea water. It was in the same location where the water lines go through the bulkhead. Well,,, the fun begins.. LOL...
Question? Why is there not a bilge pump in the location of the freshwater tank? Would make sense to me to have one in that location given it is a catch all from the rest of the potential overflows. Any thoughts on putting one in that area?
After you remove the tank you might want to cut an access hole in the subfloor below the tank, if you have not done this already you will most likely find some water. Use a 4 1/2'' hole saw which will allow you to install a 4'' West Marine access plate, you will have to cut out the foam to cut to the bottom of the hull. you can see in the photo the hole I cut.
How many inches between the sub-floor under the tank and the surface of the hull? Also, what is the box above the airrr box in your picture? Did you put bilge pump in the hole? How can you access in the tank is in place for later viewing without taking everything apart? Oh,, and what Teak floor did you go with? Looks great,, Thanks for the help and ideas.
There is about 6-8'' between the sub-floor and the hull it is filled with foam, the new tank will be installed about 6'' from the wall so I can access a water tight access plate and remove any water with a shop-vac, I have had one installed in front of the tank for about ten years, when I first installed it there was water and every once in awhile I still find a small amount. You will want to keep the covers on them in case your shower sump or a water line ever fails. I have also installed one in front and back of the generator in the bilge, some water at first and once in awhile now. You can cut out the foam with a hack saw blade. The box you see is my battery charger, when I replaced it I installed it there for ease of installation. The vinyl floor is Plasteak its been in about 8 or 9 years its been great, however, I just removed it and will be installing the new E-Z boat sole plank flooring that Plasteak makes in the entire cabin. I decided to do that after I cut the floor out for the tank, I would have cut the floor a little different as I was trying to save the vinyl at that point.
Here are photos of access holes in bilge. Foam was just for sound no need to replace.
Spotless!! Looks great!! Thanks for the pictures. Definitely helps to know where to drill. I did order access caps for the locations today. I went with clear screw lids, quick viewing. I will get the old tank out next week and get the new one ordered in the mean time. I'd head up this weekend but, my wife thinks I should be around for Christmas, LOL.
Ricochet....Well first hole has been drilled.. I am so glad I had time to do this before it gets ice cold outside again.
Same in the Stern bilge..
Fireball looks good but double up on those raw water hose clamps.
I agree with hottoddie about the clamps, cannot tell from the photos if you had any water under the floor?, depending on the attitude of how the boat is set you may see some water after you launch in the spring.
Between both holes I was able to suck out around 3 to 4 gallons of water. I still need to get the tank out. I will then put an access at the bulkhead under the tank. I am sure there is still water under the floor, maybe a couple more gallons. I looked in the tank and it is holding the antifreeze that I put into it before I wrapped the boat. So I'm not sure if the tank is leaking. I also still need to put an access in front of the generator. Not sure how I am going to get the tank out without taking the panel out next to the fridge? Note: I will double up the clamps, noted. Thanks
I cut the tank in half with a sawsall and grinder and pulled it out in two pieces