Help needed - 2006 260DA, water in bildge (pics attached)

I'm pretty positive my boat doesn't have those holes either.
It does have the white panels though.
 
I don't know if I can help or not, but on the US models of the 2006 260DA those holes definitely don't exist. I am positive of this (at least as it applied to my 2006 260DA) since I knew every inch of my boat. Since this area with the holes is an inner liner, I think you need to look elsewhere to see where the water might be coming in.

On my 260DA I had water getting into the bilge area from two different sources in the time I owned the boat. The first problem I had involved water getting in at the thru-hole fitting for the A/C system on the bottom of the boat. The dealer had to remove the thru hole fitting and then reseal the area. The second (and more common problem from what I know) involves the lack of sealant where the top part of the hull is joined with the bottom of the hull at the rub rail particularly where it dips down on the hull sides. In my case, they had to remove the stainless rub rail and reseal it on both sides. One of our CSR members who boated on our lake and who took his 260 DA to the Bahamas had a huge problem because so much water was pouring in at this area of the hull sides. You can read his account of the issue here............... http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/43462-Memorial-Day-Weekend-Bimini-Trip-Report-5-25-11-5-30-11?highlight=bilge

Hope this is of some help.

Dave
 
In the close-up pic, is the fiberglass splintered or fractured? or is that an illusion of some kind?
I'm trying to figure out what I'm looking at but that would be near the junction of the "shelf" that the HWH sits on and the bottom of the boat. If it is a fracture, could it be leaking/weeping?
 
it is not fractured, from what I saw it is the junction were they stop putting gelcoat on top of the bilge surface (no gelcoat under the engine from this point to the aft) . The rough fiberglass just go a bit higher and on top of the gelcoat covered surface.
 
Thank you DaveS, I will sure look at the possible leak from the AC and rub rail.
 
it starts getting interesting some models seem to have limber holes and some not...

other question : how realistic is a leak into the box because of a faulty trim tab mount ? is it common ?
 
Nice to follow, maybe someone has contacts with SR and can check...

Yep, my profile is indicating The Netherlands, where my boat is (built in SER (V) - Tellico Plant - Tennessee), but living and posting from Nigeria ;-)

The pictures I posted, I took from US based sales websites, same as the documentations. I'm aware that SR is building some models in Europe (Poland), but not sure when this started. So my information is purely based on research using the web and not own observation.

As Wyrman and Dave reporting not existing of such holes, maybe mod which was create in later 2006 models. In my opinion, a void space without any possibility of draining can create large issues... as both are reporting to have the white panels...
 
Last edited:
aerobat77 said:
it starts getting interesting some models seem to have limber holes and some not...

other question : how realistic is a leak into the box because of a faulty trim tab mount ? is it common ?
Click to expand...

Of course, all is possible... and thru-hull fixing point is above these 'boxes with white panels'... but the way of less resistant is direct into the bilge...

Dom, use the chalk trick.. or backing powder... have a nice run and see from where the water os arriving.. We want to see pics, else....
 
OK, here is a little update.
I went to the boat and took some more pictures. I hope it help.
I'm trying to summarize few thing here. When I was on the boat I took a look at the diagram posted by roberteb, for me the holes seems to be at the exact same position as the holes circled by Robert:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8IiDhfhLK0DVEs4VlBubk1Tcnc

Now one more detail that I forgot in my first post. the first owner had a portable generator installed. The exhaust hose was my first suspect for this problem so a month ago I have totally sealed this one from the outside of the boat (I had covered and seal the thru-hull hole). picture:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8IiDhfhLK0DV3lwNWNsUldHQjg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8IiDhfhLK0DLXRiaVdxSGtGOFE

Some more pics of the holes on both sides:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8IiDhfhLK0DRG43alAtNUIyaDA
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8IiDhfhLK0DM2d1TnBlR0dDbTA

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8IiDhfhLK0DVkJzczZQcWE3NWs
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8IiDhfhLK0DbndpTGtKUjFnRFU

To complete the day I took some chalks and I have draw lines almost everywhere.
I will go back tomorrow and take some more pictures.

Thank you all for the support !
 
Since it sounds like you are pretty confident that it's wave action causing the leak, you can likely eliminate (but keep it on the back shelf, just in case) anything that's below the water or above the rubrail. Now, the rubrail could be an issue - are the waves you are referring to tall enough (or splash high enough) to enter through the rubrail? This is what Dave is referring to, above. Just for a little more information on that and how your boat is built so it makes sense... Very basically, you have two parts to your boat (well, the "inner liner" being a third) - the part above the rubrail and the part below. They are joined like a shoe box behind the rubrail. In other words, the top half has a "lip" that slides over the bottom half. If that gap wasn't properly sealed, then water could be forced up into that gap and it would then drip down inside the boat.

Here's a cheap and dirty way to, in most cases, quickly find a leak. It helps a lot that you know the general area (port side, aft of the cabin). Get a hose and start spraying it at various possible entry locations (rubrail, thru-hulls, etc). Start low and work your way up. When you get to the rubrail, start at the stern and work your way forward, making sure to angle the hose slightly aft. While you're doing this, have someone inside observing.

What's strange is that the starboard side is plugged. It almost looks like that foam is "extra" stuff from the cavity behind it and has pushed itself into the hole from the backside. It also appears to not be sealing very well. If it was me, I'd try and pull that foam out to see what's what. I'm curious if it's just a "chunk" that is sitting there. You can always refill it, but it just doesn't make sense that it's filled.
 
My '05 260 most definitely had the same drain hole and panel "covers". I also found coorponding troughs in the aft cabin under the cushion. Never really investigated much further since I never had an issue but they could be linked in some fashion?
 
@chrishick, you went the extra mile and removed your engine to show us both limber holes in one pic :)
 
bbwhitejr said:
I can assure you that my 2006 260DA does not have these. I also just checked the Parts Manual and no indication there as well. I believe these have been added by someone other than SR.Bennett
Click to expand...

Put me in the other column. My 05 260 DOES have these, and I am 100% sure that mine were factory.
 
I am trying to get one from work today. That would be my next step if I can get it.
 
@Dom, still floating?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Since it sounds like you are pretty confident that it's wave action causing the leak, you can likely eliminate (but keep it on the back shelf, just in case) anything that's below the water or above the rubrail. Now, the rubrail could be an issue - are the waves you are referring to tall enough (or splash high enough) to enter through the rubrail? This is what Dave is referring to, above. Just for a little more information on that and how your boat is built so it makes sense... Very basically, you have two parts to your boat (well, the "inner liner" being a third) - the part above the rubrail and the part below. They are joined like a shoe box behind the rubrail. In other words, the top half has a "lip" that slides over the bottom half. If that gap wasn't properly sealed, then water could be forced up into that gap and it would then drip down inside the boat.

Here's a cheap and dirty way to, in most cases, quickly find a leak. It helps a lot that you know the general area (port side, aft of the cabin). Get a hose and start spraying it at various possible entry locations (rubrail, thru-hulls, etc). Start low and work your way up. When you get to the rubrail, start at the stern and work your way forward, making sure to angle the hose slightly aft. While you're doing this, have someone inside observing.

What's strange is that the starboard side is plugged. It almost looks like that foam is "extra" stuff from the cavity behind it and has pushed itself into the hole from the backside. It also appears to not be sealing very well. If it was me, I'd try and pull that foam out to see what's what. I'm curious if it's just a "chunk" that is sitting there. You can always refill it, but it just doesn't make sense that it's filled.
Click to expand...
 
I have SOLVED this issue, WATER IN BILGE, ONLY WHEN RUNNING!!!! for many years, my boat sits dry, then after taking the boat out, 3-4 gallons of water in the bilge.....WTF....., more people on the boat more water in the bilge, less people on the boat, less water. I've gone through every thread on this topic: no it's not the transducer, AC Seawater inlet, Engine coolant hose, Water pump, Fresh water flush kit, rain water in a compartment, fresh water holding tank, Hot Water Heater...NO NO NO, don't waste your time replacing those through transom fittings and hoses, sealing trim on the swim platform, or any other brain storm thought you may have....... So simple, yet so stupid.......Your bilge pump hose is the problem.....there is no check valve or discharge baffle on the rear engine bilge outlet discharge hose, the hose has a small loop about 2-3 inches above the discharge outlet. This loop was designed to stop backwash.....GUESS WHAT, the loop is too small... your method of fixing is your choice, however that's the problem.....the backwash pushes in through the bilge outlet, upward through the small 2in high loop, the into the bilge pump itself and fills the bilge itself........ how stupid / how simple could this be, and over thought so many times........PROBLEM SOLVED
 
Bobfro said:
I have SOLVED this issue, WATER IN BILGE, ONLY WHEN RUNNING!!!! for many years, my boat sits dry, then after taking the boat out, 3-4 gallons of water in the bilge.....WTF....., more people on the boat more water in the bilge, less people on the boat, less water. I've gone through every thread on this topic: no it's not the transducer, AC Seawater inlet, Engine coolant hose, Water pump, Fresh water flush kit, rain water in a compartment, fresh water holding tank, Hot Water Heater...NO NO NO, don't waste your time replacing those through transom fittings and hoses, sealing trim on the swim platform, or any other brain storm thought you may have....... So simple, yet so stupid.......Your bilge pump hose is the problem.....there is no check valve or discharge baffle on the rear engine bilge outlet discharge hose, the hose has a small loop about 2-3 inches above the discharge outlet. This loop was designed to stop backwash.....GUESS WHAT, the loop is too small... your method of fixing is your choice, however that's the problem.....the backwash pushes in through the bilge outlet, upward through the small 2in high loop, the into the bilge pump itself and fills the bilge itself........ how stupid / how simple could this be, and over thought so many times........PROBLEM SOLVED
Click to expand...


Chasing this as well, already replaced transom assembly (other issues), raw hoses on engine and transducer tube, and was going to rebed seacocks


Guess I’ll have a look at a duckbill valve
 
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