410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Thanks! I just put in the same btu's that I took out and had the room, fairly easy project on my boat and has worked great for several seasons, but I hear you, I can cool it down quickly even in the summer.

I'll let him know that the 7K btu unit is good. Thank you!
Smaller btu works just fine. I had a 7. They made me buy a 6 and it’s an I’ve box.
 
Guys, can someone guide me on my new forward AC installation. I installed a 10k Citimarine unit, to replace my ancient 7k Cruise Air. Talk about a tough install - No room to work. All I have left is to connect the 4 wires that came off the cruise air unit. I labeled them, but not sure I did such a good job. I have a black and while wired labeled L1 and L2. And another black and white, smaller gauge wire, but also L1 and L2. Hellllp!!
 
Guys, can someone guide me on my new forward AC installation. I installed a 10k Citimarine unit, to replace my ancient 7k Cruise Air. Talk about a tough install - No room to work. All I have left is to connect the 4 wires that came off the cruise air unit. I labeled them, but not sure I did such a good job. I have a black and while wired labeled L1 and L2. And another black and white, smaller gauge wire, but also L1 and L2. Hellllp!!
Power in from the circuit breaker and power out to the raw water pump trigger relay.
L1 and L2 are typically 240 volt however in your case black is Hot and white is Common for this 120 volt application.
 
Another question re: Citimarine AC installation:

I was wondering if anyone can share their experience with installing the Citimarine unit in their forward stateroom. For example, did you drill new drain holes in the new pan, so they are in the same position of the cruiseair, or did you just extend the drain tube to the new drain holes, on the back side of the pan, which faces forward towards the bow? Also, did your Citimarine unit come with a temp sensor (phone cable with metal sensor), like the cruiseair had, or is it already somewhere attached to the Citimarine unit? Thanks!
 
Don’t mean to sidetrack the ac conversation but more info on the tunnel tab mod:

the boat holds plane down to 1600rpm now, just barely. At 1850 we’re going 16.5mph and the bow is nearly level. With fuel prices where they are this year pulling 1.5mpg+ out will pay for the 500 tabs in less than a tank of fuel
 
Don’t mean to sidetrack the ac conversation but more info on the tunnel tab mod:

the boat holds plane down to 1600rpm now, just barely. At 1850 we’re going 16.5mph and the bow is nearly level. With fuel prices where they are this year pulling 1.5mpg+ out will pay for the 500 tabs in less than a tank of fuel

LOL, You are learning very quickly how to justify this very expensive way of life. Whatever makes us sleep better. I just don’t know what life would be like without being on the water, and I’d rather not find out!

More importantly, how much speed did you gain at WOT, and is the gain across most RPM’s? This and underwater lights sound like good upgrades next time I pull my boat!
 
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LOL, You are learning very quickly how to justify this very expensive way of life. Whatever makes us sleep better. I just don’t know what life would be like without being on the water, and I’d rather not find out!

More importantly, how much speed did you gain at WOT, and is the gain across most RPM’s? This and underwater lights sound like good upgrades next time I pull my boat!

3mph at WOT, which I think is interesting since they’re fully retracted, but it must be the extended running surface
 
3mph at WOT, which I think is interesting since they’re fully retracted, but it must be the extended running surface

What speed is WOT? And what speed and RPM at cruise? Everyone seems to cruise at different rpms. I usually run 2250 to 2300.
 
What speed is WOT? And what speed and RPM at cruise? Everyone seems to cruise at different rpms. I usually run 2250 to 2300.

2280 was 23.5 in a light chop with full water, full fuel, and the dinghy on.

wot is 2860 also fully loaded doing 32-33mph. It was still climbing a little bit when I backed it down. We have 21.5” L cup props
 
Wow, thats great! But, when I got my boat I had my props repitched to 22x22, to get 2850 rpms. Not sure if your trim tabs would have the same effect on my speed, but I would think they would.
 
Wow, thats great! But, when I got my boat I had my props repitched to 22x22, to get 2850 rpms. Not sure if your trim tabs would have the same effect on my speed, but I would think they would.

i think it would, maybe not the same speed since that’s so variable but overall control is completely different. We’re the 350HP 3126 by the way, the 385 seem to go a little better than us (if that’s what yours are)

We could probably spin 22” and be within spec no problem but I’m not in a hurry and the exhaust temps are very low with these props
 
Glad you told me that you had the 350’s, I should have asked. Yes, I have the 385’s, but it sounds like you are getting better performance than me.
 
Glad you told me that you had the 350’s, I should have asked. Yes, I have the 385’s, but it sounds like you are getting better performance than me.

here’s one shot I grabbed. This was a smoooth speed, full tab, and according to CAT we’re only burning 12.6GPH total at that engine rpm.

if it’s hard to read it’s 1999RPM and 18.1mph on the GPS

86B71495-5AA3-4368-8FB3-3F167EA8E7D1.jpeg
 
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here’s one shot I grabbed. This was a smoooth speed, full tab, and according to CAT we’re only burning 12.6GPH total at that engine rpm.

if it’s hard to read it’s 1999RPM and 18.1mph on the GPS

View attachment 126538

Looking at my dope chart (speed vs burn) depending on how far I cruise (total miles) this season, the cost difference between 2000 and 2400 is about $500-$1000, with 2300 being the closed cost estimate to 2000 RPM. Then there is the issue of additional hours on the meter.

Estimate running 2000 rpm vs 2300 for 1000 nm, I would require 67.6 hours and $5114 in fuel. At 2300, 48.5 hours on the meter and $5592 in fuel.

In the end, I don't plan on changing my running habits too much as the cost is pretty minimal, and Id prefer to keep the hours off the tach. Also, my time is valuable.

Also, I've come to the conclusion my time is worth more than my money.
 
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Looking at my dope chart (speed vs burn) depending on how far I cruise (total miles) this season, the cost difference between 2000 and 2400 is about $500-$1000, with 2300 being the closed cost estimate to 2000 RPM. Then there is the issue of additional hours on the meter.

Estimate running 2000 rpm vs 2300 for 1000 nm, I would require 67.6 hours and $5114 in fuel. At 2300, 48.5 hours on the meter and $5592 in fuel.

In the end, I don't plan on changing my running habits too much as the cost is pretty minimal, and Id prefer to keep the hours of the tach. Also, my time is valuable.

Also, I've come to the conclusion my time is worth more than my money.

yeah if we’re going anywhere meaningful it’s still likely to be at 2250-2300

90% of our boating is running around in circles to get air through the cabin and enjoy the sunshine and good weather. cocktail speed is just too slow so this is a nice compromise. The running angle is very flat now
 
I haven’t tried terribly hard to find it with me google yet but do you guys know anywhere I could find the little clip for the screen/shade combo? Ours popped off and I can’t find it. I think it’s by oceanair
image.jpg


Here’s the salon showing the part thats missing
image.jpg
 
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It probably popped off, it’s under the mattress. I believe these are made by Oceanside. I know I found mine under the mattress after I bought a spare…but can’t remember where I found them.
 
It probably popped off, it’s under the mattress. I believe these are made by Oceanside. I know I found mine under the mattress after I bought a spare…but can’t remember where I found them.

Did you get your electrical issue figured out?

Bennett
 

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