Water Tank gauge board replacement?

The tank is full and the only that comes on is empty. I have checked all the wires and the power to the unit and that all seems fine. Have tried to find a replacement but no luck. Any help with be grateful.
 
D Kirk said:
The tank is full and the only that comes on is empty. I have checked all the wires and the power to the unit and that all seems fine. Have tried to find a replacement but no luck. Any help with be grateful.
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Sounds like you need the Speakerdude treatment! new diodes. Great to have good peeps on this site. He should be able to get you fixed up.
 
Thanks That is what I am hoping
 
Cocktail Time said:
D Kirk, before you send the tank level indicator off, are you sure it is broken? When empty it is supposed to only show the power and empty lights. As the tank is filled the other lights will light up. I would test it by making sure your tank is full and see what lights come on.
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Iirc, when mine failed, all were lit up. Even when empty
 
I’ve never seen one like that. They are super easy to test. Just apply a grnd to each (not red). Each color represents a level.
Is the circuit board potted with epoxy? that makes those non-repairable.
 
It is on the 1990 Sea Ray 35 DA.

So red is the power to the board so with the power on cut the other wires and apply the ground to each one. If it lights up then the board is ok but the sender is bad?
 
Red and black are needed to power the board. Take a jumper from the black wire, (their may be two) and Pierce the insulation on the other colors. I wouldn’t cut them until you prove the board bad.
 
Thanks I will do that and let you know.
 
Jim,

First off, thanks for all your help on this problem. Here's my issue: When filling the freshwater tank, lights work as they should (empty, 1/4, 1/2, etc. When draining, I go from 1/2 to empty (no 1/4). Is this indicative of a board problem or a sender problem?

Thanks again for your help.

Larry
 
To troubleshoot, simply use a jumper at the tank sender, short the black (ground) to each color, one at a time, while someone is watching LED's. If all is working, pull the sender and clean the rods. May have calcium build up causing them to be less sensitive. Have never heard of this, but there's always a first!
 
Jim,

I followed your guidance and the gauge works as it should. I pulled the sender, and wow, lots of calcium and corrosion. But, it has been sitting in water for 22 yrs, so I can't complain.

I can't clean and reinstall. Too far gone. I have this part # as 333393, 20" 5 wire, but mine is 12". Can anyone confirm?

If correct, I can't find any place to buy it. Any help?

I thought about trying to repair it. It is pretty simple. Is the wire copper? 14ga? (12 ga. is too big, I tried that)

Thanks for all the help.

Larry
 
Update: I called Searay today. They were very helpful as usual. The vendor for the tank & sender is Duracast. The SR sender part # for my boat is 819938 (12" sender). Duracast PN is 701520. I contacted Duracast, they say they don't supply this sender anymore. Usual go-to's like FPMarine has not been productive. Any other suggestions on where to find this part? Also, anyone know what is the wire material in the sender? It looks like aluminum. I may have to refurb the one I have.

Thanks for any help!
Larry
 
LMBoat said:
Update: I called Searay today. They were very helpful as usual. The vendor for the tank & sender is Duracast. The SR sender part # for my boat is 819938 (12" sender). Duracast PN is 701520. I contacted Duracast, they say they don't supply this sender anymore. Usual go-to's like FPMarine has not been productive. Any other suggestions on where to find this part? Also, anyone know what is the wire material in the sender? It looks like aluminum. I may have to refurb the one I have.

Thanks for any help!
Larry
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Larry, I don't think you have to use that particular sender. I have a friend that ordered what looks to be the same part from Dometic/Sealand for a 1998 400 DB. It is the same part that is on a friends 2000 410 SD. I'll see if I can find the part number. looked identical.
 
Domestic makes these, and you might be able to use their replacement float switches to rebuild your unit.

not sure if you have pulled the individual switches and tested them electrically? If you check with a DMM, you should be able to see them make and break continuity. That would at least confirm they are the problem.

I find it interesting all (I think 5 switches) have failed?


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Thanks for the comments. The whole unit has not failed, just the "1/4 full part". I have tested all. If you haven't seen the sender, it is just a plastic stick with 5 solid core wires of varying lengths that go down into the tank (One at the top <full>, 1/4 down <for 3/4 full>, 1/2 down <1/2 full>, 3/4 down <for 1/4 full>, and all the way to the bottom for "Empty". When water rises it makes a connection with the next wire up and the next indicator lights on the panel. Simple, effective, and lasted 22 years.

The problem is the wire for "1/4 full" is broken. at about 1/2 way, meaning the gauge won't read "1/4" full. It looks like I am going to try to just replace the wire. Again, from above, it does not look like copper, it looks more like aluminum. And not sure of the ga wire. 12 ga is too big. Maybe 14 ga.

Please keep the comments coming.

Thanks
Larry
 
Update: I just used 16 ga. stranded wire (twisted tightly), twisted it on to what what left of the 1/4 indictor wire, cut it to the correct length, push it back into the slot on the plastic "stick", reinstalled, and viola, all is working! Not a bad fix as it cost no money. Not sure how long it will last, but now that I know how the sender works and how to repair, it will be easy next time.

Thanks to all for your comments.

Larry
 
Hi Jim, You have done a lot of wonderful things helping people out with this. I too have the water gauge issue.....all lights showing regardless of water level. I'm in Canada but willing to pay for your service and mailing expenses etc... Are you still doing this? do you have transistors left?
 
RobMarioK said:
Hi Jim, You have done a lot of wonderful things helping people out with this. I too have the water gauge issue.....all lights showing regardless of water level. I'm in Canada but willing to pay for your service and mailing expenses etc... Are you still doing this? do you have transistors left?
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@speakrdude
 
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