420/44 DB Owners Club

Thanks, for the insights.Didn't realize i may have access from the cockpit. Also i noticed that their seems to be quite a bit of ducting back there just for that one outlet from the blower. Seems to form an S. Wonder if thats necessary to control the airflow?

You may just have excess ducting. On mine it was straight. When I removed the TV I removed the duct which gave a lot of room to lean over and work.
 
I missed this post earlier. Interesting find. What's your experience with this paint?
The PO of my boat had used it for years, I have used it the past 2 seasons on everything metal below the water line and have had great results.
 
Hey guys,
I need some help! We're on the boat for the first time tonight and there is a problem with the master head shower faucet. As soon as the water system is turned on water comes out of the shower head regardless of the faucet position.

I assume a new Grohe cartridge is needed. The problem is figuring out how to access it. Has anyone done this?

There is essentially nothing serviceable from the back via the access panel in the medicine cabinet. I took it apart from the front as much as possible but the body of the faucet can't be opened-up with the available space.

Does the trim ring come off somehow or is there another way?

Thank you!
 
Hey guys,
I need some help! We're on the boat for the first time tonight and there is a problem with the master head shower faucet. As soon as the water system is turned on water comes out of the shower head regardless of the faucet position.

I assume a new Grohe cartridge is needed. The problem is figuring out how to access it. Has anyone done this?

There is essentially nothing serviceable from the back via the access panel in the medicine cabinet. I took it apart from the front as much as possible but the body of the faucet can't be opened-up with the available space.

Does the trim ring come off somehow or is there another way?

Thank you!
Should come right out the front like all other cartridges do. Pull handle and trim should give you access.
 
Should come right out the front like all other cartridges do. Pull handle and trim should give you access.
I was hoping that would be the case! I have a picture but can't figure out how to post it from my phone.

After removing the handle and mechanism that attaches the handle to the mixing valve, you can see where the square mixing valve housing cover would come apart to remove the cartridge, but it is larger than the circular opening in the trim.

It looks like you either need to pull the valve out from the back, which seems to be a pretty difficult job, or remove the trim at the front.
 
Here's a picture...
Resized_20200523_162432.jpeg
 
This did not hold true for mine, but might for you.

To remove the medicine cabinet...the 3-4” trim piece above the mirror is supposed to be attached with Christmas Tree fasteners. Pull that strip and gain access to a couple of screws that hold the top of the medicine cabinet in place. Also remove 4 or so screws from inside. Cabinet should come out giving you good access to the back of the valve. Whoops...also have to remove/unwire the receptacle. This info came from SR via drawings they sent me.

My top trim piece was not held on with Christmas Tree fasteners. Maybe yours is.

Bennett
 
This did not hold true for mine, but might for you.

To remove the medicine cabinet...the 3-4” trim piece above the mirror is supposed to be attached with Christmas Tree fasteners. Pull that strip and gain access to a couple of screws that hold the top of the medicine cabinet in place. Also remove 4 or so screws from inside. Cabinet should come out giving you good access to the back of the valve. Whoops...also have to remove/unwire the receptacle. This info came from SR via drawings they sent me.

My top trim piece was not held on with Christmas Tree fasteners. Maybe yours is.

Bennett
Thank you Bennett.

That's the process I've been researching as Plan B. How was your top trim attached?
 
Once that cover pops off by spinning it "lefty loosy" then you are home free. Just like a house, you always do it from the front.
 
Once that cover pops off by spinning it "lefty loosy" then you are home free. Just like a house, you always do it from the front.

+1

That chrome trim "should" rotate counter-clockwise and give you the access you need.
 
Ok, lefty loosy got the trim off. After that, there is a plastic ring that sandwiches the fibreglass between it and the valve with two screws. Front opening is still too small.

After removing the two screws the plastic ring comes off but the valve is still behind a metal plate with an opening that is too small.

The valve is supported only by the hoses at this point. To get the cartridge out you need to disconnect the hoses and pull the valve assembly out the back through the access panel in the medicine cabinet, taking care to not drop it into oblivion!

Will post pictures when back at my computer.

Pain in the ass for what should be a simple procedure. Considering some modifications before reinstalling in case this happens again.
 
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Exhaust scupper flapper: For the past few year I have not been able to find the flapper insert for my 3” engine exhaust. I prefer not to change the whole SS exhaust thru hull tip assembly. Attached is a photo of part needed....looking for any suggestions on where to buy a similar flapper replacement? Thanks!
E4F3CE1D-A3D3-4091-B436-2EDE5954B59F.png
 
Ok, lefty loosy got the trim off. After that, there is a plastic ring that sandwiches the fibreglass between it and the valve with two screws. Front opening is still too small.

After removing the two screws the plastic ring comes off but the valve is still behind a metal plate with an opening that is too small.

The valve is supported only by the hoses at this point. To get the cartridge out you need to disconnect the hoses and pull the valve assembly out the back through the access panel in the medicine cabinet, taking care to not drop it into oblivion!

Will post pictures when back at my computer.

Pain in the ass for what should be a simple procedure. Considering some modifications before reinstalling in case this happens again.

Here are the pictures:
upload_2020-5-24_14-53-9.png


upload_2020-5-24_14-53-55.png


upload_2020-5-24_15-26-52.png


One of the seals (Edit: these are check vavles) that are positioned on each water feed to the cartridge was broken...the hot side. Not sure if the cartridge is damaged but given what a pain it is to replace, I will get one.

Hopefully I can find these parts. There are no part numbers on anything. A quick search didn't yield anything. No part numbers on anything.

If anyone has tracked these down in the past, please let me know!
 
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Thanks, for the insights.Didn't realize i may have access from the cockpit. Also i noticed that their seems to be quite a bit of ducting back there just for that one outlet from the blower. Seems to form an S. Wonder if thats necessary to control the airflow?
Ended up replacing unit with the dometic DTG16 which is a direct replacement to the existing unit. Hardest part was removing the old unit. Removing the access panel from the cockpit locker made things go much easier. The flange on the air outlet of the unit had to be removed so that it would fit out the opening. The new unit has a rotating outlet so that made the new one slide in without issue. The water feed on the new unit is on the front so the hose needed to be extended. Other than that the wires are all plug and play. This job cost me 1 bandaid which was a result of me bumping my leg agains the edge of the unit when walking past it.
CD91F035-27A8-4E17-B4DD-029360FA9561.jpeg
 
So first weekend, actually 5 nights, on the boat was great. We did a couple trips to Watch Hill/Napatree in RI and spent the night on the hook one night.
Of course it did not go without some issues. I had planned on replacing the rusty cockpit fridge with an Isotherm drawer unit. The cutout wasn't wide enough so it did require some jigsawing. The height was perfect though. As soon as i finished the install, the galley fridge must of had separation anxiety from its rusty counterpart and promptly kicked the bucket. Compressor was shot. So i ran to Defender and picked up a new Norcold. Fortunately it was in stock and we were back in action in a couple hours. Even managed to save most of the food...
The more pressing issue i have yet to investigate and could use some insights on, is while underway my forward bilge would turn on every 20 minutes or so when on plane. Before i put my inspector glasses on i figured i would check in with you guys to see if anyone else has had this happen and if there is a commonality on the culprit?? Again it only seems to happen when underway/on plane. Although i suppose it could be happening while not moving and i have just yet to realize it.
This will be next weekends project to chase down...
 
My buddies' 420 is on the hard now having the parting joint and the rub strip resealed. He also had a leaking thru hull transducer weep to take care of. When the transducer was removed water streamed out of the hull from the glass structure. Not from standing water in the bilge. He is hoping that the resealing will take care of his water intrusion. No telling how long its been leaking as he rarely cruises on plane, he normally cruises at ten knots as he rarely makes trips longer than thirty or so miles from home. Tom posted great pics of this process as did Bennett.
This is a pic of Harold's port joint seal, the only place where there is obvious seal failure. All of the water that was found to be standing in the bilge was only in the starboard side though. They think that possibly since the thru hull transducer has been leaking, water was finding its way thru voids in the hull bottom from that hole and collecting towards the stern when at planning speed. The transducer is located just forward of centerline of the starboard engine. We will know once every thing is sealed and the boat splashes this weekend. Update to follow

IMG_1627.jpg
 
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