420/44 DB Owners Club

[Alex F]

...I would think those tubes would have to be above the waterline otherwise there would be water in the turbo's. I'm going to bring an inflatable ball to put in the opening in case of wake turbulence...

The fiberglass exhaust elbow is the lowest part that's questionable here. As you follow the exhaust pipe towards the turbos, you can clearly see how it elevates much above the water level. So, there's no concern for the turbos. It would make all the sense in the world for the exhaust elbow also being just above water level. But, since I don't know this as a fact, I'd recommend to assume and expect water entering the ER. Inflatable ball or anything to block the water (if needed) is a good idea.

 

[ttmott]

The fiberglass exhaust elbow is the lowest part that's questionable here. As you follow the exhaust pipe towards the turbos, you can clearly see how it elevates much above the water level. So, there's no concern for the turbos. It would make all the sense in the world for the exhaust elbow also being just above water level. But, since I don't know this as a fact, I'd recommend to assume and expect water entering the ER. Inflatable ball or anything to block the water (if needed) is a good idea.

I think you will find that all of the mechanical joints in the exhaust system are above the boat's static water line for SR boats. Regardless, always install a plug or other watertight closure if you are going to leave the boat unattended with an open exhaust tube to the water.

 

[becnme]

I have removed the exhaust hoses on a 420 Sundancer in the water with no water entering the boat. I know they are different boats but the under water exhaust looks very similar.
The hardest part was getting the hose connections loose after 10 years. A heat gun helps along with dish washing liquid to help slide the hose off and on.

 

[brewster16]

So my boat is almost ready to splash but after wire wheeling off some growth, calcification from props, rudders, shafts and struts it occurred to me if I should somehow paint/coat these surfaces before it goes back in our brackish water? I never have before. This is well discussed amongst the "outdrive crowd" but what about us big bronze nibral types??? My running gear is cleaned well but totally raw!

 

[Alex F]

So my boat is almost ready to splash but after wire wheeling off some growth, calcification from props, rudders, shafts and struts it occurred to me if I should somehow paint/coat these surfaces before it goes back in our brackish water? I never have before. This is well discussed amongst the "outdrive crowd" but what about us big bronze nibral types??? My running gear is cleaned well but totally raw!

It all depends.......In NE, if you're moving frequently, you should be fine without anything applied. If you're moving once a month or even less, I'm almost positive you'll start developing some sort of a growth.

If money is not a big concern, your best bet is prop speed or similar product. It should last you 2 years, here in NE as a seasonal boater. A cheap approach is Pettit Prop Coat Barnacle Barrier ($30 a can). It's ok for just couple months, then it's gone. Depending how short is your season, you decide what makes sense for your application and usage.

 

[craigswardmtb]

Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Compound spray. Very similar to other running gear barnacle barrier coatings. I think i paid $4 a can and used 3 cans. Home Depot carries it in grey.

 

[craigswardmtb]

Any of you guys add DC outlets in the staterooms? We do alot of anchoring and want to run some small fans at night for airflow, yet it appears there is only one DC outlet in the galley area. So i was debating on splicing into the switch wiring in the staterooms and adding a DC outlet in each room. Anyone tackle this and find a better area to draw power from?

 

[Alex F]

Any of you guys add DC outlets in the staterooms? We do alot of anchoring and want to run some small fans at night for airflow, yet it appears there is only one DC outlet in the galley area. So i was debating on splicing into the switch wiring in the staterooms and adding a DC outlet in each room. Anyone tackle this and find a better area to draw power from?

For a small fen you could probably tie to the rope lighting under the bed, which is on the same 3 switches bank.

We do lots of anchoring and actually I never had a need of adding DC outlet there. At night, open hatch works just fine for us. When it's too windy, we control how much we open it. When it's too hot or too cold, genny is on and the AC/Heat is on.

 

[bbwhitejr]

Anyone accessed the air compressor and tank that is tucked into the swim platform on the starboard side? Changed the relay/solenoid on my horn and it works great now. However, I have a leak somewhere and I suspect it is the compressor/tank. I have the kit from Kahlenberg to replace the fittings on the tank/compressor, but accessing this looks miserable. Appears access is to crawl behind the gen to get to it. I need a 4’ monkey. Anyone done this/

Bennett

 

[carterchapman]

Anyone accessed the air compressor and tank that is tucked into the swim platform on the starboard side? Changed the relay/solenoid on my horn and it works great now. However, I have a leak somewhere and I suspect it is the compressor/tank. I have the kit from Kahlenberg to replace the fittings on the tank/compressor, but accessing this looks miserable. Appears access is to crawl behind the gen to get to it. I need a 4’ monkey. Anyone done this/

Bennett

if you can at least reach it with a spray bottle of water and a little Dawn, spray it all down and the leak will immediately bubble up. Then getting up close is the next problem.

 

[bbwhitejr]

if you can at least reach it with a spray bottle of water and a little Dawn, spray it all down and the leak will immediately bubble up. Then getting up close is the next problem.

I had that exact thought Carter. My second thought was to install a nice electric and be done with it. I will see what I can do with the soapy water first. Whatever possessed SR to put it there, God only knows....

Bennett

 

[Alex F]

Bennett,

First of all, I've been there more times than I can count. Too many projects to list starting with bridge AC discharge, Gen muffler upgrade, STBD head dockbill valves.....and many more. The trick to use soft pads (I'm using old throwable cushion) or blankets, just be careful where you put them so you don't step and break something. Always be mindful of trim tabs reservoir tank tiny tubes sticking out (very easy to bump into and break them). Prep all the tools and have a helper to stand by to hand you stuff, almost guaranty you'll need something else.

Second, it sounds like my original horn is older design, having tiny compressor hidden under the FWD berth, just behind the AC unit. After dealing with the tutes few times, I said that this is just too stupid, the spot in the anchor locker where SR decided to install them was a dumb idea. Water get in the tutes the first decent wave you catch. I guess no one told the engineer/designer that this will not be a small lake boat......
Anyway, I just order double tute electrical horn and mounted on the radar arch. Very simple and effective solution.

A small confession. I guess my "lake" is a bit rougher, so after about two years the new tutes managed to get salt water in them and stopped working. I couldn't find a way to take them apart, so I bought a new set. It's pretty cheap, $50-$100 or so. Easy fix and I'm back in business.

Now that you got few options, it's your decision on the direction to take.

 

[sb in gp]

Anyone accessed the air compressor and tank that is tucked into the swim platform on the starboard side? Changed the relay/solenoid on my horn and it works great now. However, I have a leak somewhere and I suspect it is the compressor/tank. I have the kit from Kahlenberg to replace the fittings on the tank/compressor, but accessing this looks miserable. Appears access is to crawl behind the gen to get to it. I need a 4’ monkey. Anyone done this/

Bennett

I crawled back there and replaced fittings on this last year. Not too bad if you're a little limber. The trick is to put some sort of temporary platform behind the genny and on top of the rudders for you to lay on. I used a hard bottomed, foam padded snow sled that I found in my basement that was about 18" wide and about 3' long. You could also cut a piece of 1/2 plywood and tack some carpet to the top side. Once you have a platform, getting back there is pretty easy. I brought a razor knife and replaced all the compression fittings in about 20 minutes.

As a side note, these fittings are really crap, and it is disappointing that Kahlenberg and Sea Ray would think this is a reliable application in an environment with so much vibration.

 

[Carpediem44DB]

I scratch my head often when I see the placement of some of the accessories on the 44. It would have been just as easy for Searay to install the compressor and tank for the horn on the Port side of the transom which would make access and service a breeze. That is on my to do list to simply relocate and install the entire system directly behind the port rudder post on the vertical wooden bulkhead there. I have a leak as I can hear the compressor run for about 15 seconds when I energize the STBRD buss.
I figure if I'm back there replacing fittings I may as well move it to where it makes sense for it to live.
Next on the list is to find a better place for the Fire bottle that isn't in the way of accessing my STRBD engine.
Carpe Diem

 

[bajturner]

Any of you guys add DC outlets in the staterooms? We do alot of anchoring and want to run some small fans at night for airflow, yet it appears there is only one DC outlet in the galley area. So i was debating on splicing into the switch wiring in the staterooms and adding a DC outlet in each room. Anyone tackle this and find a better area to draw power from?

I've added a few in both staterooms. Getting decent current is an issue for sure.

In the guest stateroom, I added fans to both sides, pulling power from the wall-mount reading lamps. The wall switch for the lights, which have their own independent switches on the lamps themselves, acts as a master for both the lamps and the fans.

These are very low power so no issue with the wiring.

It helps to have a daughter with you with small hands!

The master stateroom is a bigger problem. There I have installed another of these same fans, a USB charging outlet, and a small inverter for a new TV. It's not a ton of amps, 5-6A max, but the gauge of wire over that distance is not great, such that the inverter complains sometimes.

I installed a new breaker panel in the closet adjacent to the TV enclosure and ran each of these items to it's own breaker there. The 12V feed was borrowed from the lighting circuit. With all the lights replaced with LEDs, the total current draw on that feed is less than it was with the original bulbs.

I don't have any pictures, unfortunately, but I should be able to get some soon! This is the panel I used:

I am thinking of running a new, dedicated high-gauge pair of wires directly from the main DC panel to this sub-panel this year. Ideally there is a straight-shot run just under the port side deck to the area where the amplifiers are behind the sofa back. From there it is easy to get to the panel.

Anyone done this or similar already?

 

[bbwhitejr]

I scratch my head often when I see the placement of some of the accessories on the 44. It would have been just as easy for Searay to install the compressor and tank for the horn on the Port side of the transom which would make access and service a breeze. That is on my to do list to simply relocate and install the entire system directly behind the port rudder post on the vertical wooden bulkhead there. I have a leak as I can hear the compressor run for about 15 seconds when I energize the STBRD buss.
I figure if I'm back there replacing fittings I may as well move it to where it makes sense for it to live.
Next on the list is to find a better place for the Fire bottle that isn't in the way of accessing my STRBD engine.
Carpe Diem

A-freakin' men! Why in the hell they did not locate it in the same place on the Port side, I have no idea. The 1/2" plywood and carpet sound like the trick. Even then, they stuck way farter into the depth of the swim platform than necessary. So not only is getting to it laterally a problem, I hope my arms are long enough to reach it....It will take me longer to get to it and get out than it will to replace the fittings..............

Bennett

 

[Irie308]

Having been back there twice to replace the generator exhaust tube and muffler, I know the pain. That being said, i've noticed that there is a ton of space behind there under the platform (The middle section). Was thinking of strapping a container back there to store spare parts that are needed in a pinch but not accessed often. Am i nuts for wanting to use that space for storage?

 

[Alex F]

Having been back there twice to replace the generator exhaust tube and muffler, I know the pain. That being said, i've noticed that there is a ton of space behind there under the platform (The middle section). Was thinking of strapping a container back there to store spare parts that are needed in a pinch but not accessed often. Am i nuts for wanting to use that space for storage?

Dean,
I think I told you once that pretty much I filled all available storage space on mine ... Well, guess what? The mid section under the platform is packed as well. Extra oil (in a plastic box), spare hoses, power cords....and bunch of other stuff. It's easier for those with no swim platform, b/c I have large bolts sticking up in mine. So, when I store anything, I need to be mindful to avoid them.

 

[Irie308]

Dean,
I think I told you once that pretty much I filled all available storage space on mine ... Well, guess what? The mid section under the platform is packed as well. Extra oil (in a plastic box), spare hoses, power cords....and bunch of other stuff. It's easier for those with no swim platform, b/c I have large bolts sticking up in mine. So, when I store anything, I need to be mindful to avoid them.

I do recall the convo but didn’t realize you meant every nook and cranny...haha.

 

[Carpediem44DB]

Having been back there twice to replace the generator exhaust tube and muffler, I know the pain. That being said, i've noticed that there is a ton of space behind there under the platform (The middle section). Was thinking of strapping a container back there to store spare parts that are needed in a pinch but not accessed often. Am i nuts for wanting to use that space for storage?

Your not nuts for using the space. I am just kind of anal about keeping the boat as light and empty as possible. These boats are not known for an abundance of storage for sure. I got rid of the pull out bed under the salon sofa so that opened some very useful storage. I don't keep much in the way of spares on board as we are really never far from a harbor and then just a couple of hours from home.
Carpe Deim