460 DA Owners Thread

Greetings from Portland, OR!
It's been a tough year so far. This Summer I was T-boned in my SUV and so spent most of the nice weather months on my back recovering.

I finally got to the boat mid-August and found my refrigerator crapped out. :( After cleaning that mess up, I took the boat up the Columbia river for a cruise. 3/4 of the way to our destination I have alarms going off. I pull the throttles to idle and put the gears in Neutral to assess the situation. NO GAUGES on the Port engine, nor Smartcraft readings for the Port Engine. I shut both engines off, and restart. No gauges at all on the Port side still, so I idle on to the destination to look things over in the engine compartment.

The Smartcraft system runs from the 480CE ECU to the DCM (80pin connectors for fuel level, oil pressure, temp, etc) then it goes into a J-box to join up with the Starboard engine and the information gets sent via an ethernet type cable to another J-box under the helm. Then the signal tos to two connections on the Smartcraft display and split off to the analog gauges. There are only two 15a fuses, I beleive, as part of the DCM's.

I've talked with Mercury and have all the schematics for the system and have spent nearly 2weeks searching the internet for similar issues, and talked with Sea Ray Yacht division to determine it must be a bad DCM. I bit the bullet and bought a DCM from Lake Union Sea Ray in Seattle-$1500! I installed the new DCM and now ALL gauges don't work!!!! I'm fit to be tied!

I let a few weeks pass to cool down, but still can't determine any solution. Anyone have a guess? Irma has the Palm Coast shut down to speak with some of the "older" engineers.

Help!
 
We are going to be adding a tv to the cockpit of our 2001 460 . I was thinking of a 32" of the port side above the sink mounted to the hardtop support. Two questions do we need to add any extra blocking behind the fiberglass as support and does anyone have a 32 mounted that they can share a picture of.
Thanks
John
 
The radar arch is plenty strong to hold a tv mount without support. The issue is going to be getting a bit on the bolts because it's a fairly small space inside the arch once you take off the access panel.

I don't have a picture because we just have a 19" mounted to the stbd side behind the helm seat. I will admit, the port side radar arch would be nice because you can see it from the helm seat.
 
NotHerDecision said:
The radar arch is plenty strong to hold a tv mount without support. The issue is going to be getting a bit on the bolts because it's a fairly small space inside the arch once you take off the access panel.

I don't have a picture because we just have a 19" mounted to the stbd side behind the helm seat. I will admit, the port side radar arch would be nice because you can see it from the helm seat.
Click to expand...

I just removed the 22 inch tv from behind the helm. It has limited viewing from most of the seats. That's why we are mounting to the arch
 
I have a tv on the port side arch as you describe. I think it's a 28" though. I remember using some larger washers and working up from that access panel above the sink. It's a great viewing angle because you can see the tv from most anywhere in the cockpit. I ran the coax up from behind the icemaker and powered the tv from the GFI under the sink.
 
jjcllc328 said:
We are going to be adding a tv to the cockpit of our 2001 460 . I was thinking of a 32" of the port side above the sink mounted to the hardtop support. Two questions do we need to add any extra blocking behind the fiberglass as support and does anyone have a 32 mounted that they can share a picture of.
Thanks
John
Click to expand...
IMG_9531.JPG


Hi John,
I added a 32" to the port side arch last Spring and it worked out great this summer! Here is a picture of it as a template to first see if we liked the 32" size. I will get an finished picture later today for you. The install was simple! The arch is plenty thick enough to handle such a small tv. That being said I did place a couple of washers on the backside for additional support. Be careful which mount you select, if it is an articulating style it will protrude into the walkway and you will bang your head on it regularly. I went with the tightest flush mount I could find that still allowed a little left to right rotation.

As for wiring I ran a plug up from the gfi below the sink. I actually pulled the box and tied into the back side so that I still had use of the 2 outlets and the wiring was hidden. I ran the HDMI down the arch, and along the port side ABOVE the ice maker and through a hole in behind the salon fridge. My Direct tv and Tracvision equipment is in the cabinet above the fridge so it is a simple run, albeit I pulled the fridge to make it easier to access. I added a powered HDMI splitter so that all 3 TV's are HDMI off the Tracvision.

Again, this was a very easy install and it enhanced our cockpit time greatly. There's nothing like a 4 hour cruise around Lake Michigan and watching a baseball game at 23 knots...LOL
 
I realize I have a different boat than you all, but this is mounted in a modified drink holder cutout and the SS is a SR part... It is only up when stationary. 40" 4K smart TV
2017-02-19 14.36.47.jpg
 
jjcllc328 said:
We are going to be adding a tv to the cockpit of our 2001 460 . I was thinking of a 32" of the port side above the sink mounted to the hardtop support. Two questions do we need to add any extra blocking behind the fiberglass as support and does anyone have a 32 mounted that they can share a picture of.
Thanks
John
Click to expand...
Here are a couple pics of the finished install:
IMG_0696.JPG
IMG_0698.JPG
IMG_0700.JPG
 
Howdy....jjcllc328's wife.:)
My wife actually made it. We bought the vinyl fabric at Joann's fabric. The logo was embroidered onto it after she did the sewing to fit.
The embroidery is a Match to the boat name on the transom. Our local stitching shop, Alfie Embroidery, digitizes the image for stitching in any color you want. We have shirts, hats and towels as well.
But my wife gets the credit for sewing...I dream up the ideas and she makes the ideas come true..:)
 
Hello all,
Just joined this form and it is great.
I have a 2001 460 on Lake Powell Utah. Just purchased it in July of this year. This boat has been amazing upgrade for me and a great new way to enjoy the 1600 miles of shoreline lake powell utah has to offer.

I have a couple questions for you all.

Reading through the form I found some post on the two fresh water pumps. My boat has the same issue with one pump running all the time. I will try to bleed out the air as suggested in a post and see if that solves the issue. The three fresh water wash downs on the boat. Engine Room, Forward in the anchor locker, and one in the rear trunk. The one in the engine rooms works great however I cant get the other two to work. Is there a shut off for these two that I have missed or could it be when winterized maybe they got drained really good and do I just need to leave them open until they pump water. When I open them the fresh water doesn't pump.

I also have read a couple post on the Norcold refrigerator replacement. I just wanted clarification. Do you just have to take the cabin door out or do you need to pull the port side dash. I had a 330 sundancer and the whole dash had to come out. It was a big job. Just want to understand all that was involved in replacing the fridge.

Thanks for the help.
 
One more question...

Have any of you replaced the anchor rode.. chain and rope with just chain.

Can the stock windless winch handle 300 ft of chain?

Thanks
 
I'll tackle a couple of your questions but I will need some help...

As far as the water pump running... I am guessing it is just bad. They are rebuildable but I replaced both of mine for a reasonable cost and got a pressure upgrade in the process. The pumps work together so if you water is working at the spigot at all at least one pump is doing it's job. Now... The fittings are prone to leaking, so make sure you push the pex piping all the way into the fittings while holding the lock ring down, then pull the lock ring tight and re insert the spacer ring on the fittings connected to the pump to be sure it's not just sucking air.

On my boat, the forward and transom wash down spigots do not have another shut off, but they are known to leak badly and are manufactured by Whitecap industries (I had to replace all of mine because I couldn't find a $1 washer in the right size to rebuild them. I would do this, remove the pex from the back of the spigot and see if you have water flowing, if so then you know it's the spigot itself.

Just to clarify one thing I didn't understand at first... The pumps work off the internal water tank of the boat, so you must have water in the tank for the pumps to function, if you are on dock water (the inlet on the transom locker) then you can turn off the pumps and should be using the "city" water pressure. It is fairly typical for the inlet water pressure regulator to fail, but they are inexpensive.

The refrigerator will come out the door, depending on your measurements, you may need to remove the door from the track...

Most importantly... Welcome to CSR!

Josh
 
Josh,
Thank you.
Going to tackle the refrigerator in a couple weeks. Just wanted to know if others have done that job and what needed to be taken apart.

The funny thing with the fresh water pumps. Pump #2 was continuously running and #1 working like it should . Replace pump #2 on sunday and both worked like they should... on demand and then shut off. Half way through the day pump #1 started to run continuously... time for a good drink and think about it.

I have new pump in hand and will be replacing #1 friday I will also try bleeding out the air in the lines first out of curiosity.

On the wash downs front and rear. I will try taking the lines off and see if it is the spigots. As for hooked up to city water... the dont work either on city or fresh water pump and yes the water tank has been full. As I said the engine room wash down works great.

Thank you for the input and help.

Jim
 
Joint Custody said:
Josh,
Thank you.
Going to tackle the refrigerator in a couple weeks. Just wanted to know if others have done that job and what needed to be taken apart.

The funny thing with the fresh water pumps. Pump #2 was continuously running and #1 working like it should . Replace pump #2 on sunday and both worked like they should... on demand and then shut off. Half way through the day pump #1 started to run continuously... time for a good drink and think about it.

I have new pump in hand and will be replacing #1 friday I will also try bleeding out the air in the lines first out of curiosity.

On the wash downs front and rear. I will try taking the lines off and see if it is the spigots. As for hooked up to city water... the dont work either on city or fresh water pump and yes the water tank has been full. As I said the engine room wash down works great.

Thank you for the input and help.

Jim
Click to expand...
Hey Jim,
I had the same issue with pump #2 last winter...it drove me crazy and I too bought a new pump and still had the issue....get this, it turned out to be the silly little clear plastic filter that is inline before it. It had a small crack and was leaking air so as to not maintain pressure. You may want to check that, it is a simple fix and I should have done that first as opposed to thinking the worst was wrong.

The fridge is an easy replacement. I installed a new NovaKool..the same dimensions as the Norcold but 2 cubic feet larger and the freezer is on the bottom. It fits perfectly and goes down the steps without any issues after removing the sliding doors.

The transom city water inlet was leaking on my vessel and it too was an easy fix. I did need to remove the transom locker panel it is mounted too. Upon doing so I discovered a leak in the wash down spigot. A little teflon tape took care of that. As I am writing this, I am thinking it may be worth removing that panel and looking behind the spigot to see if it is connected. Who knows, the previous owner may have disconnected it and plugged the water line to it for any number of odd reasons...just a thought. I haven't had any issues with the anchor locker washdown. I attached a 6' piece of hose to it and use it after we anchor to wash down the chain.

I haven't added 300' of chain but I have added an additional 50' for a total of 75'. The windlass works fine with that. I don't think, in this case the windlass knows the difference...chain or rode...LOL (but a little research on that model will be best before splurging on so much chain).

Hope that helps.
 
New question. Has anyone removed the Downlights installed in the hardtop? I need to replace mine but I’m unsure how they come out. If you replaced yours what did you use?

Tia

Josh
 
TheWolfTC said:
Hey Jim,
I had the same issue with pump #2 last winter...it drove me crazy and I too bought a new pump and still had the issue....get this, it turned out to be the silly little clear plastic filter that is inline before it. It had a small crack and was leaking air so as to not maintain pressure. You may want to check that, it is a simple fix and I should have done that first as opposed to thinking the worst was wrong.

The fridge is an easy replacement. I installed a new NovaKool..the same dimensions as the Norcold but 2 cubic feet larger and the freezer is on the bottom. It fits perfectly and goes down the steps without any issues after removing the sliding doors.

The transom city water inlet was leaking on my vessel and it too was an easy fix. I did need to remove the transom locker panel it is mounted too. Upon doing so I discovered a leak in the wash down spigot. A little teflon tape took care of that. As I am writing this, I am thinking it may be worth removing that panel and looking behind the spigot to see if it is connected. Who knows, the previous owner may have disconnected it and plugged the water line to it for any number of odd reasons...just a thought. I haven't had any issues with the anchor locker washdown. I attached a 6' piece of hose to it and use it after we anchor to wash down the chain.

I haven't added 300' of chain but I have added an additional 50' for a total of 75'. The windlass works fine with that. I don't think, in this case the windlass knows the difference...chain or rode...LOL (but a little research on that model will be best before splurging on so much chain).

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Thank you for all the insight. Leaving now for the weekend to stay on the boat. I will report back.
 
I had the same issue with the water pumps, number two ran constantly. So I replaced them with RV pumps of the same capacity. Did that work? Nope. Number two ran on and on even with a new filter. Then the tank started filling when connected to city water, back feeding through the pumps. So I installed check valves and that solved the second problem. Then I installed a larger capacity marine Shurflo pump on #1 and I only use the one pump. Good water pressure and it shuts off on demand. It's a puzzling set up the way Sea Ray puts the two pumps in and expects you to run them together. I even considered replacing the accumulator tank. Maybe that's next.
 
On the hardtop lights you have to twist the trim ring to get it off, then you can remove the housing. Haven't replaced them, but did rewire so I have white lights and blue lights.
 
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