PMC
Well-Known Member
Yeh, I get what you all are saying with a snake. I agree, the blockage is past that Y
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My master window leaked and I only needed to tighten the screws on the latch tabs to increase the pulling pressure against the seal. Others have had to remove the entire window and re-bed it to the hull. Just depends on your situation. One thing, my latch tabs had developed a curve to them from the constant pressure over the years. I took them off and flipped them around so the curve was against the glass not away from it.Leaking Port Lights in both the Portside Head and Master head.
Anyone have this problem? I haven't had time to look at it closer, but I am assuming the gasket is failing. I plan to remove and clean up old gasket (caulk) and add new caulk then replace the port lights.
Any thoughts or input would be appreciated!
Thanks!
This boat has the "no gold" delete package direct from Sea Ray.Very nice. Looks like you ditched the gold trim look as well.
I just starting to move the faucet left to right, several times until it got loose, then the difficult part, I put my head under the sink and try to get my body as far as I could inside the cabinet, then unscrew the screw underneath the sink, the difficult part is the access , after I removed the old faucet, I just screwed the new one.
I had to buy an extra extension for the faucet supply to reach the existing connection.
Beautiful job!
What type of connections did you use to go from the Sea Ray water supply to the faucet?
If you have any photos of the undersink connection that would be great.
Thanks for your help!
I just went to Home Depot and use standard connections, it fits perfectly , remember the connection is long so I use an extension
I am going to the boat on Friday , I will post pictures of the connections
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-C...d-Polymer-Faucet-Connector-B1-16A-F/100056596
This connection work perfect with No Adapters, see the link above, just remove the old faucet and remove the existing old plastic, install the new faucet, connect the new line.
at the beginning I tried to buy the PET Lines ( the plastic lines in red and blue) but they don't fit the Shark and bite Sea Ray connections, the lines from Home Depot wok perfect.
I would think a check valve would be too restrictive with a gravity feed drain. From the perspective of the sump pump, you might get away without a valve if the least resistant path is out the boat, and not back up the sink drain. Best location is behind the fridgeNice job. I don't like the sink draining into the sump either. Yet, it's always a little nerve-wracking drilling holes into a perfectly good boat - and one that's in the water no less!
I have a couple questions:
1. Where is the new hose outlet in relation to the sink? Is access through the cabinet below the sink?
2. If I wanted to do something similar, but without drilling a hole in the boat, do you think it would be possible to "T" into the existing outlet hose from the sump box? In that case, the sink water would bypass the sump box and would join the join the sump box discharge hose somewhere downstream of the check valve.
What are your thoughts on re glassing the hole? Any concerns of exposed coring material?New Project: kitchen Sink drains directly overboard.
Nice job. I don't like the sink draining into the sump either. Yet, it's always a little nerve-wracking drilling holes into a perfectly good boat - and one that's in the water no less!
I have a couple questions:
1. Where is the new hose outlet in relation to the sink? Is access through the cabinet below the sink?
2. If I wanted to do something similar, but without drilling a hole in the boat, do you think it would be possible to "T" into the existing outlet hose from the sump box? In that case, the sink water would bypass the sump box and would join the join the sump box discharge hose somewhere downstream of the check valve.