Official 400EC thread

rboreanaz said:
I removed the TV. It is place had a drawer made with a catch to hold it in during rough seas. The drawer is now my pull out bar. I then covered the space with a cabinet door made by a carpenter to look just like the rest of of the doors. Laminate was not difficult to match. I am really happy how it looks and now functions.
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Sounds like a good idea and use for the space.
Any pictures?
 
TIDALWAVE said:
That's a nice install...better option than I took. I am looking for a copy of the rolling door that would, either match or come close to existing ones, to cover the space previously occupied by the old TV.
Click to expand...

Id like to find the matching Tambour rolling door to cover the old TV space too.
Let me know if you find a it..
 
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rboreanaz said:
I removed the TV. It is place had a drawer made with a catch to hold it in during rough seas. The drawer is now my pull out bar. I then covered the space with a cabinet door made by a carpenter to look just like the rest of of the doors. Laminate was not difficult to match. I am really happy how it looks and now functions.
Click to expand...

Sound nice...
I was going to make a matching door but, would like to match the rolling doors and use it for food storage. It will be the only cabinet big enough to hold a box of Cheerios :)
 
This is great, we purchased a 1994 400 EC just about a year ago and all I can say is we are in love, the biggest thing I'm in love with inboards ! No more clunking and grunting from twin I/O'S. I had been in the "410/400" thread this will be better. Thanks!
 
I am planning to replace the screens and seals in my portlights. I am tols by Bomar that they do not make the screens any more but have made a retro fit replacment. Turns out to be a seperate gsaket that has 2 sided tape to affix and then a separate screen that fits into a groove of the gasket.

I don't know if I am to install the gasket first in the portlight and then wedge the screen into it or to wrap gasket around the screen and then affix the gasket to the portlight casing with the 2 sided tape. Also, the 2 sided tape looks thin and wondered if I should silicone it instead?


Anyone use this retro fit screen/gasket combo?
 
rboreanaz said:
I am planning to replace the screens and seals in my portlights. I am tols by Bomar that they do not make the screens any more but have made a retro fit replacment. Turns out to be a seperate gsaket that has 2 sided tape to affix and then a separate screen that fits into a groove of the gasket.

I don't know if I am to install the gasket first in the portlight and then wedge the screen into it or to wrap gasket around the screen and then affix the gasket to the portlight casing with the 2 sided tape. Also, the 2 sided tape looks thin and wondered if I should silicone it instead?


Anyone use this retro fit screen/gasket combo?
Click to expand...

I have not, but need to do something as I have some ripped and missing screens.
If you are willing to share, how much did the kit cost? Is it per port light or a set for multiple windows?
 
I carefully cut my old screens out with a razor and have never missed them.
I think the boat looks better without them..
 
No Start and or dead battery?? So 2 times out of 25 starts this May happen, Starboard engine will click like a dead battery if I start the Port (with no issue) and wait 2-3 minutes the Starboard cranks and starts no issue. This is after the boat sits all week with the charger on..... Another interesting Tidbit, if I use the emergency start button with the Port engine idling it shuts the port engine off and blows the Starboard breaker on on the power panel............??? Obviously I need to start with a battery test ,but I sort of wonder if the charger is not feeding whatever battery is responsible for starting the Starboard engine since it starts after I run the other engine momentarily.............??? Oh and if I run the boat for an hour or so it seems good for a week. Has to be dead batthery/lack of charge because even at the dock plugged in I got a low voltage alarm on my Garmin chartplotter....
 
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Jay400EC said:
No Start and or dead battery?? So 2 times out of 25 starts this May happen, Starboard engine will click like a dead battery if I start the Port (with no issue) and wait 2-3 minutes the Starboard cranks and starts no issue. This is after the boat sits all week with the charger on..... Another interesting Tidbit, if I use the emergency start button with the Port engine idling it shuts the port engine off and blows the Starboard breaker on on the power panel............??? Obviously I need to start with a battery test ,but I sort of wonder if the charger is not feeding whatever battery is responsible for starting the Starboard engine since it starts after I run the other engine momentarily.............??? Oh and if I run the boat for an hour or so it seems good for a week. Has to be dead batthery/lack of charge because even at the dock plugged in I got a low voltage alarm on my Garmin chartplotter....
Click to expand...





I have found that my starboard battery bank usually indicates a lower voltage than the port even with the charger on also (12.2 - 12.5 vs 13.5). I attributed the voltage difference to the house batteries being in use at the time with more things drawing on them.

I too have issues sometimes starting one of the mains, but it is the Port engine that gives me trouble. I have been thinking the starter is going. Feels like the motor is cranking slow. Using the emergency cross over sometimes helps, sometimes does not. All of my batteries are less than 2 years old.



 
Would you by chance have a picture of the new door made by the carpenter?
 
Has anyone gone with an all chain anchor rode? I am considering this for a hopefully not too distant project but wanted to make sure that I can hold enough chain to make it worthwhile.

So, my questions are:
if you have gone with all chain, how much chain are you able to fit?
do you have any problems with binding or jamming?
was the switch to all chain worth it?
lastly, which windlass did you go with?

i am hoping to be able to hold about 200-250 feet of chain but am worried about not having enough depth in the anchor locker to keep the chain from binding.
 
h_gerry said:
Has anyone gone with an all chain anchor rode? I am considering this for a hopefully not too distant project but wanted to make sure that I can hold enough chain to make it worthwhile.

So, my questions are:
if you have gone with all chain, how much chain are you able to fit?
do you have any problems with binding or jamming?
was the switch to all chain worth it?
lastly, which windlass did you go with?

i am hoping to be able to hold about 200-250 feet of chain but am worried about not having enough depth in the anchor locker to keep the chain from binding.
Click to expand...

I have an all chain. Not sure how much and haven't had any issues with it. I am not sure what Windlass I have but will check this weekned.
 
What a PITA! I have a water leak under my starboard engine that I thought was the hot water heater. Well the hot water heater was leaking and has been replaced. (Which by the way can be done with the motor in the boat, the outboard manifold and riser needed to be removed from the starboard engine and the circulating pump removed from the front of the engine, which gave enough clearance to get the old unit out and the new unit in place.)
The leak still persisted after the replacement of the hot water heater. Further investigation found a leak in the water lines running under the engine from either the raw water pump intake or discharge line. I removed both lines from the boat to inspect them because it is impossible to see anything under the motor or on the outboard side of the motor. This is where the PITA comes in, the room to get even your hand in there to loosen a clamp is ridiculous. I have the hatch over the motor out after moving the helm seat out of the way (as it were). But still could not get a hand passed the manifold to access the back of the raw water pump.I had to lie on my side in front of the motor and with one hand reach the clamps on the hoses. Then I find out there is a metal bracket holding the hose between the pump and the transmission oil cooler that is BOLTED to the flywheel cover.I needed 7/16[SUP]th[/SUP] inch wrench that I had to loosen a ¼ of a turn at a time BLIND. Oh did I leave out that the manifolds were still hot from running the engine to locate the leak in the first place!
With the hoses out, I am now able to speculate I have two possible causes of the leak: 1. The raw water intake hose runs under the engine with the wire-reinforced hose up till a plastic hose barb connects to a molded hose that seems to be used to allow the molded hose to reach the inlet side of the pump which is partially blocked by the motor mount. The leak MAY have been coming from the hose barb connection; 2. When I went to loosen the clamp on the transmission oil cooler end of the hose (also molded) that runs from the discharge side of the raw water pump to the transmission oil cooler, the clamp fell off into my hand and into the bilge in pieces.I suspect this was the source of my leak. The water was likely running down the hose and dripping off of the hose at that bracket I mentioned before into the bilge and pooling under the motor.
So, my plan is to: replace the molded hose, which is thankfully currently available (and I have already bought the one the supplier had in stock and ordered a second one for the port motor, just in case), between the discharge of the raw water pump and the transmission oil cooler. I am not sure if I will be putting that bracket back on the hose, but will see what my tolerance level is by then. The fact the motor will be cold should help though; and try to run the wire reinforced hose directly to the water pump and do away with the hose barb and molded hose on the intake side of the pump. My concern is the clearance around the motor mount.
Anyone tackle this task already?Anything I missed or that someone else found I should investigate while in this area?
I also plan to run some Barnacle Buster through the salt water side of the system while I have the hoses apart just to clean out the coolers and heat exchanger.
 
Searaybio270 said:
I have an all chain. Not sure how much and haven't had any issues with it. I am not sure what Windlass I have but will check this weekned.
Click to expand...

Joe,
Did you happen to check on which windlass you have?
 
My hat off to you brother... I thought replacing my thermostats a chore so I respect your patience & determination!
 
I have all chain but never needed all out to know length since on inland reservoir.... I know it is made in Italy but never paid attention to name.... Will run by marina tomorrow & check
 
I have now installed the retro screen kits. They are a little tricky to install. Need someone on outside when install from inside boat. Easy when you have done the first. Cost about $25 - 30 each. West Marine sells them as well as getting direct from Bomar.
 
h_gerry said:
What a PITA! I have a water leak under my starboard engine that I thought was the hot water heater. Well the hot water heater was leaking and has been replaced. (Which by the way can be done with the motor in the boat, the outboard manifold and riser needed to be removed from the starboard engine and the circulating pump removed from the front of the engine, which gave enough clearance to get the old unit out and the new unit in place.)
The leak still persisted after the replacement of the hot water heater. Further investigation found a leak in the water lines running under the engine from either the raw water pump intake or discharge line. I removed both lines from the boat to inspect them because it is impossible to see anything under the motor or on the outboard side of the motor. This is where the PITA comes in, the room to get even your hand in there to loosen a clamp is ridiculous. I have the hatch over the motor out after moving the helm seat out of the way (as it were). But still could not get a hand passed the manifold to access the back of the raw water pump.I had to lie on my side in front of the motor and with one hand reach the clamps on the hoses. Then I find out there is a metal bracket holding the hose between the pump and the transmission oil cooler that is BOLTED to the flywheel cover.I needed 7/16[SUP]th[/SUP] inch wrench that I had to loosen a ¼ of a turn at a time BLIND. Oh did I leave out that the manifolds were still hot from running the engine to locate the leak in the first place!
With the hoses out, I am now able to speculate I have two possible causes of the leak: 1. The raw water intake hose runs under the engine with the wire-reinforced hose up till a plastic hose barb connects to a molded hose that seems to be used to allow the molded hose to reach the inlet side of the pump which is partially blocked by the motor mount. The leak MAY have been coming from the hose barb connection; 2. When I went to loosen the clamp on the transmission oil cooler end of the hose (also molded) that runs from the discharge side of the raw water pump to the transmission oil cooler, the clamp fell off into my hand and into the bilge in pieces.I suspect this was the source of my leak. The water was likely running down the hose and dripping off of the hose at that bracket I mentioned before into the bilge and pooling under the motor.
So, my plan is to: replace the molded hose, which is thankfully currently available (and I have already bought the one the supplier had in stock and ordered a second one for the port motor, just in case), between the discharge of the raw water pump and the transmission oil cooler. I am not sure if I will be putting that bracket back on the hose, but will see what my tolerance level is by then. The fact the motor will be cold should help though; and try to run the wire reinforced hose directly to the water pump and do away with the hose barb and molded hose on the intake side of the pump. My concern is the clearance around the motor mount.
Anyone tackle this task already?Anything I missed or that someone else found I should investigate while in this area?
I also plan to run some Barnacle Buster through the salt water side of the system while I have the hoses apart just to clean out the coolers and heat exchanger.
Click to expand...


Great to know you were able to R&R the water heater without pulling the motor.
I've thought there might be room to remove it the way you did...

Your right, the starboard raw water pump is a PITA to get to the hoses.
Laying in front of the engine is the best way and remove the clamps.
Removing the whole thing on the bracket with the fuel pump is the way to go..for replacement.

I think the raw water inlet to the pump will need the molded hose that hoops over the motor mount.
Just look at the Port side hose because, it easy to see that one...and decide if a straight hose will work..I don't think it will.
The short molded "hoop shaped" hose is still available and you'll need that plastic barb to connect the bulk straight hose to the strainer.

That darn bracket bolted to the bell housing isn't really necessary.

Cheers,
 
Air O'Nautical said:
Great to know you were able to R&R the water heater without pulling the motor.
I've thought there might be room to remove it the way you did...

Your right, the starboard raw water pump is a PITA to get to the hoses.
Laying in front of the engine is the best way and remove the clamps.
Removing the whole thing on the bracket with the fuel pump is the way to go..for replacement.

I think the raw water inlet to the pump will need the molded hose that hoops over the motor mount.
Just look at the Port side hose because, it easy to see that one...and decide if a straight hose will work..I don't think it will.
The short molded "hoop shaped" hose is still available and you'll need that plastic barb to connect the bulk straight hose to the strainer.

That darn bracket bolted to the bell housing isn't really necessary.

Cheers,
Click to expand...

Mark,
I thought about removing the outboard side manifold and riser to get better access to the pump housing but cannot justify the extra work involved with that. Also, the fact that I am doing this alone plays a big factor in getting the manifold off and back on without killing myself!

I think you are also right and I will need the molded hose to get around the motor mount. Just wish the engineers would have thought that one through just a little more. I don't like the idea of a plastic hose barb and that many connection points on a hose that is below the water line and constantly open to the sea.

i guess part of my post was just feeling like someone else "feels my pain" with this stuff. Thanks for listening.
 
Well, I am running again. Installing the new hoses went fairly smooth. The molded hose between the pump and the transmission oil cooler went in easy. I was even able to get the bracket reconnected with the bolt into the bell housing! I was setting up the inlet hose to use the molded hose, but gave it a shot using the wire reinforced hose directly to the raw water pump and it fit! Turns out I did not need to use the molded hose after all. I made a chaf guard using an old piece of hose wire tied on it to protect the hose from rubbing against the motor mount. Test run the motor. Had good water flow out the exhaust and no water leaking under the motor.

now I just have to out away all of my tools, clean up the greasy hand prints I left around and put the helm seat back in place. I also need to resplice the subwoofer speaker wire I pulled out by accident when I moved the helm seat. (Tomorrow's project!)
 
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