Official 400EC thread

Harold,

My white nav/anchor light is on the arch.
Looks same as yours with a much shorter pole and a fold down base.

If possible get a new one with LED bulbs because, the replacements are $$

Or reuse what you've got cut to size and mounted with Perko's replacement base Model # 6589824 | Mfg # 1054DPBBLK from West M.
 
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Thanks Mark,

I looked into the light base and saw that the internals are broken. I ordered a new base that is the same as what I have now and will try that first using the existing pole to see if that solves the problem.
 
I did not write down the prop size for my 1997 400EC (gas). Can somone help with this. I will be purchasing spare set as I hit a log yesterday and don't want down time this time of the year.
Thanks....
 
I did not write down the prop size for my 1997 400EC (gas). Can somone help with this. I will be purchasing spare set as I hit a log yesterday and don't want down time this time of the year.
Thanks....

If I remember correctly, I have 20x20x1.5 3 blade props on my boat. I could not find the parts manual online for the 1997 or 1996 400EC, but the 1995 manual has these props. The 1998 manual shows 20x21 props for the 400EC.
 
If I remember correctly, I have 20x20x1.5 3 blade props on my boat. I could not find the parts manual online for the 1997 or 1996 400EC, but the 1995 manual has these props. The 1998 manual shows 20x21 props for the 400EC.

I have the same info Harold reported..

Guessing if you have 380HP H.O. engines you might be 20x21 but, why not contact SR with your hull ID # and they'll tell you what the build sheet says...

I admittedly don't know much about boat props...

A friend installed a new prop on his inboard powered fishing boat that was the same numbers as his old prop.
The boat wouldn't even plane!

His prop guy explained the brand and style are as important as the Diameter and pitch.
I'm guessing blade area, cup, slip, magic, all come into it but, again it not my bag.

Ask SR before you spend big boat bucks.
 
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Well, I did not get to the anchor light yet as I had another issue develop. Went into the boat before the weekend to check on everything before a Cub Scout camping trip with my so last weekend to find both air conditioners not operating. Both of them had an error code for a high pressure shut down ("HI PS"). Turns out the pump failed so I just replaced it. Getting to that pump looks like it should be simple being on the forward bulkhead between the engines, but since I have to stand sideways and lean over to reach anything it is not easy!! At one point to get to the lower screws to secure the new pump I laid down and slide forward between the engines to reach them. Of course I left a screw driver I needed on the deck and my arms could not reach so I had to crawl back out to get it. Long story short, the pump is replaced and the air conditioners are back on.

Now on to the next project, the vacuflush head it not holding water in the bowl. Seems the seal is failing so I will need to replace that, then I will get to the anchor light. Stay tuned......
 
Well, I did not get to the anchor light yet as I had another issue develop. Went into the boat before the weekend to check on everything before a Cub Scout camping trip with my so last weekend to find both air conditioners not operating. Both of them had an error code for a high pressure shut down ("HI PS"). Turns out the pump failed so I just replaced it. Getting to that pump looks like it should be simple being on the forward bulkhead between the engines, but since I have to stand sideways and lean over to reach anything it is not easy!! At one point to get to the lower screws to secure the new pump I laid down and slide forward between the engines to reach them. Of course I left a screw driver I needed on the deck and my arms could not reach so I had to crawl back out to get it. Long story short, the pump is replaced and the air conditioners are back on.

Now on to the next project, the vacuflush head it not holding water in the bowl. Seems the seal is failing so I will need to replace that, then I will get to the anchor light. Stay tuned......

I always tell ya, when ya need a little man to get into those tight places just gimme a call. I'm alot ypunger , more flexible and alot smaller then you! All I ask is when I stick my hand up out of the hole There's an ice cold fresh one placed in it.
 
I always tell ya, when ya need a little man to get into those tight places just gimme a call. I'm alot ypunger , more flexible and alot smaller then you! All I ask is when I stick my hand up out of the hole There's an ice cold fresh one placed in it.
Now that is a d@mn fine offer!!!:smt038
 
I always tell ya, when ya need a little man to get into those tight places just gimme a call. I'm alot ypunger , more flexible and alot smaller then you! All I ask is when I stick my hand up out of the hole There's an ice cold fresh one placed in it.

I will take you up on that one next time!!
 
Hello all,

First time posting. I've searched the site and did not find a similar problem addressed so I hope the wisdom on this thread can help. My starboard fuel tank has a small leak somewhere on the bottom of the tank. I've removed the screws holding the 4 support brackets down, all hoses/lines that are locate on the top of the tank, and had the tank pumped out. When I try to pry the tank up off the shelve it does not budge, almost like it's glued in place (according to SR it was not). I'm thinking of pounding wedges under the tank to apply constant pressure over time and see if that won't work. Anyone run into this problem, if so how did you solve it?

Thanks!

Joe
 
Hello all,

First time posting. I've searched the site and did not find a similar problem addressed so I hope the wisdom on this thread can help. My starboard fuel tank has a small leak somewhere on the bottom of the tank. I've removed the screws holding the 4 support brackets down, all hoses/lines that are locate on the top of the tank, and had the tank pumped out. When I try to pry the tank up off the shelve it does not budge, almost like it's glued in place (according to SR it was not). I'm thinking of pounding wedges under the tank to apply constant pressure over time and see if that won't work. Anyone run into this problem, if so how did you solve it?

Thanks!

Joe

i have not had to replace the fuel tanks in my boat (thankfully) but suspect that the "glue" effect you are experiencing is a combination of the fuel and engine room "stuff" that has accumulated over the years. The steady pressure approach would be the way I would go but just be careful and take your time. I would also suggest you watch the corners and seems so that you don't make things worse. Good luck and welcome to CSR!
 
In case anyone was wondering, the wood wedges idea worked. I used the wooden door shims found at Home Depot or Lowes and placed them in three locations along the tank. I started with 3 in each stack the first day and 4 the 2nd day. After day 2 the tank was free.
 
Glad to hear you got the tank free. Hope the rest of the repair goes easy.
 
Hi 40ec owners, I'm a newbie, on this site and a 40' ec owner. Had 277 ec and 340 ec back in the 80's. Back into boating after 30 plus years. Always had express cruisers. Love the handling and lay out. Anything I should know about a 400 ec? It's a 1994 w 280 hrs. Any input would be appreciated.

thx, fastphil
 
Hi 40ec owners, I'm a newbie, on this site and a 40' ec owner. Had 277 ec and 340 ec back in the 80's. Back into boating after 30 plus years. Always had express cruisers. Love the handling and lay out. Anything I should know about a 400 ec? It's a 1994 w 280 hrs. Any input would be appreciated.

thx, fastphil

Congrats on your return to to boating and welcome to CSR.
I see your in CT so, seasons over for us northern boats.
The 400EC is a good boat and performs remarkably well with the gas engines installed.

Dealing with an older boat, you will have replacement items to accolmplish when things break or just wear out, depending on what the PO owner has done.

The current 400EC owners on here can help you with everything you will likely need to know.

Enjoy,
 
Thanks for your support. Looking forward to "dig in" and go through all systems before spring. Keep ya posted
 
OK...On survey it was found that both A/C units were draining condensation water into the bilge. Are the AC units set up that way?

The gentleman doing the survey recommended a sump be set up to collect this drainage. Can anyone comment o this please?

Jon
 
OK...On survey it was found that both A/C units were draining condensation water into the bilge. Are the AC units set up that way?

The gentleman doing the survey recommended a sump be set up to collect this drainage. Can anyone comment o this please?

Jon





Yes, they should be draining into the shower sump box under the floor in the salon.
That's an easy fix.
 
Thanks I will investigate...the boat interior has been remodeled and updated....the A/C unit in the main cabin was replaced as evidenced by a 2011 mfg tag on the cruiseair unit.....I imagine the forward unit was as well and the drains were not rerouted.

Jon
 

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