340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Do Over said:
you could always fill it with some kind of plastic filler...sand...then paint.

personally I would just paint it and call it a day then save my money for a teak table to replace that fiberglass one....but that's just me.


clif
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thanks...i might try some sort of filler (bondo maybe?) and see what happens....

i do want a nice wood table some day for the cockpit but they are pretty pricey.....right now if i told the Admiral i wanted to spend $600 on a table i might be sleeping on the cockpit seat instead of on the nice and warm bed in the cabin for a while....:smt014.....


cliff
 
CliffA said:
thanks...i might try some sort of filler (bondo maybe?) and see what happens....

i do want a nice wood table some day for the cockpit but they are pretty pricey.....right now if i told the Admiral i wanted to spend $600 on a table i might be sleeping on the cockpit seat instead of on the nice and warm bed in the cabin for a while....:smt014.....


cliff
Click to expand...


yeah...I know what ya mean....Marine Teak (site sponsor) has pretty good prices when your ready....I'm gonna do both cabin/cockpit when I can...I think it really classes up the boat.

this one is about $300 american http://www.marineteak.co.uk/nautic-star-half-ellipes-41-p.asp

clif
 
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CliffA said:
the white coating around the edge of the starboard cockpit storage door (see pic) has a couple places that the coating has chipped off....any suggestions how to repair the chips?....standard paint is not a good option since the coating (which i assume is powder coating) is much thicker than paint and the edges of the areas that have flaked off would be very noticeable...
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure there was a thread on this very topic just a few days ago. If my memory is not failing me, Frank had some pretty detailed info on the how to and not to go about this repair. I'll look around the site and see if I can find the thread.
 
Yep, the exact link is here:

http://www.boatoutfitters.com/sea-ra...luminum-frames

I've replaced one of mine with these, and also refinished another one. It's a close race as to which is the better value - I can clean and refinish one pretty rapidly, but I have fillers, 2 part primer, urethane paint, a compressor and a spray gun in my shop. Going out and buying any of that stuff just to refinish these frames will cost way more than buying the replacements - the paint and catalyst alone are pricey. So, if you're not set up for refinishing, and you want an OEM look, buy these. Or, send yours to me, and I'll do them if they aren't too bad.

Dale
 
CliffA said:
well, here is another section of the SMX II manual.....so it looks like you can change a setting in 'program mode' to have the fan cycle on and off with the compressor....now i just have to verify if i have the SMX II system or not on the boat....the pictures of the controls in the manual do look like the controls on my boat....

cliff

Fan Mode
(Factory Default: Continuous)
You can select continuous or intermittent fan operation.
Select “C” and the fan will run continuously while the system
is on. Select “I” for intermittent operation and the fan will
cycle on and off with the compressor.
• Upon entering the Programming Mode, press the Down,
Fan and Up keys simultaneously.
Hint
If you select intermittent fan operation, you should relocate the
thermistor from the return air grill to a cabin wall where it can
best sense the average room temperature. Check with your
dealer or call the Cruisair Applications Department for more
information
Click to expand...

I run my two units in the intermittent mode and as you've read, it was and is far more accurate to relocate the thermistors away from the grill if running in this mode. There should enough cord in your stock units to accomplish this. For my main cabin, I mounted it just below the stair case. For the master bedroom, I relocated it just outside the intake openings adjacent to the bed. Both though are exposed to the ambient cabin as opposed to the environment where the actual AC units sit. Obviously keep them away from direct sunlight.

I've also used that programming mode to calibrate the thermistors against a couple digital thermometers I have as well.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
MasterFab said:
Yep, the exact link is here:

http://www.boatoutfitters.com/sea-ra...luminum-frames

I've replaced one of mine with these, and also refinished another one. It's a close race as to which is the better value - I can clean and refinish one pretty rapidly, but I have fillers, 2 part primer, urethane paint, a compressor and a spray gun in my shop. Going out and buying any of that stuff just to refinish these frames will cost way more than buying the replacements - the paint and catalyst alone are pricey. So, if you're not set up for refinishing, and you want an OEM look, buy these. Or, send yours to me, and I'll do them if they aren't too bad.

Dale
Click to expand...

thanks guys....i'll just buy a new frame, but thanks Dale for the offer to refinish the current frame....

does anyone know the measurements of the frame so i can go ahead and order one now?....if not i will be at the boat tonight and can measure it...we plan to stay on the boat from this afternoon through Sunday afternoon....this is our first extended stay on the boat....most of the time will be spent at the dock.....

cliff
 
Tman said:
I run my two units in the intermittent mode and as you've read, it was and is far more accurate to relocate the thermistors away from the grill if running in this mode. There should enough cord in your stock units to accomplish this. For my main cabin, I mounted it just below the stair case. For the master bedroom, I relocated it just outside the intake openings adjacent to the bed. Both though are exposed to the ambient cabin as opposed to the environment where the actual AC units sit. Obviously keep them away from direct sunlight.

I've also used that programming mode to calibrate the thermistors against a couple digital thermometers I have as well.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

thanks for the tips....i'll check out how much cord i have on the thermistor and relocate it accordingly and switch the fan to 'intermittent' mode tonight....i installed a wireless indoor/outdoor digital thermometer on the boat last WE so i can use it to calibrate the thermistor....i did notice that there was 2*F difference from the set point on the controls vs. the actual room temp shown on the new indoor thermometer....

cliff
 
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CliffA said:
i am going to do the LED bulb conversion on our 'new' 340 in the next few months but for now i will keep using the regular incandescent bulbs....i have all the lights working except for one of the AC overhead lights in the cabin....i have not been able to find a replacement bulb at the local Home Depot or Lowes or Walmart....does anyone have source or a part number for this bulb?...it is a 25Watt - 110VAC bulb with a medium size screw-in base....i did not see a part number on the bulb nor the bulb base....

thanks...
cliff
Click to expand...

for anyone interested in an incandescent replacement bulb for the 110V 25W overhead lights in the cabin i finally found them on Amazon.....most 25W 110V bulbs with an E14 base are high heat resistant 220V (oven bulbs) so it took a little research to finally find a 110V version....

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-25WPR...id=1420043034&sr=8-2&keywords=light+bulbs+e14

cliff
 
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If this is what you are looking for? It fits the part number above.
miscMEbilgevent-2.jpg


Look here
http://www.searay-parts.com/Sea-Ray-Bilge-Vent-Screen-4-3-4-O-D-p/miscmebilgevent.htm
 
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Looks like they have them here. (I put 4 in the site cart and it let me proceed to checkout)
http://www.replacementboatparts.com/ventgrill4whitemaxflow.aspx
It looks like these are 1/8" bigger than the OEM part on the outer diameter of the flange, but should work. I don't want to cut you in line so please let me know if your order goes through or you are gonna pass so I can grab some.

Thanks, Sam
 
CliffA said:
thanks guys....i'll just buy a new frame, but thanks Dale for the offer to refinish the current frame....

does anyone know the measurements of the frame so i can go ahead and order one now?....if not i will be at the boat tonight and can measure it...we plan to stay on the boat from this afternoon through Sunday afternoon....this is our first extended stay on the boat....most of the time will be spent at the dock.....

cliff
Click to expand...

I removed all of mine and had them powder-coated.
 
04cobra23 said:
I removed all of mine and had them powder-coated.
Click to expand...

i went ahead and bought two new frames for both cockpit storage doors....both had pieces of the powder coating missing....$90 each seems a little pricey but what the heck....it is a boat and we all know things for boats are not cheap...

just curious, what did it cost to have the frame stripped down and powder coated?

cliff
 
I am looking at a 2000 340 Sundancer with the 7.4 engines. I know that the 7.4s had many problems with water ingestion but the current owner says he never had any issues with that. Can a mechanic check to make sure that the engines are OK and the owner is right.
 
majoma said:
I am looking at a 2000 340 Sundancer with the 7.4 engines. I know that the 7.4s had many problems with water ingestion but the current owner says he never had any issues with that. Can a mechanic check to make sure that the engines are OK and the owner is right.
Click to expand...

A compression check should find if you have a injestion problem... The modified exhaust system should have been installed. There should two large VernaLift mufflers that look like the ones below (black, bottom middle). They cost $800 a each... here is link to where you buy them: http://inetmarine.com/1601484SeaRayMufflerwithbypass141898724inlets15outlet.aspx
vernalift-group.jpg
 
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