40 sedan bridge forum

OK...Thx a lot for the info. Will def. take a close listen but from what I recall over the last 3 years they sound the exact same. I know my windshield is nearing to hot to touch for most of the day so that cant be helping. The windshield and side window covers I will install should help with this.

Thx again as always.

Andrew
fwebster said:
On your units running all the time, is it the compressor and the fan or just the fan running? The air units have a constant run setting which I believe is the defaut in the unit's program. You can get into the program mode and change the fan setting if you need to.

We have several 400DB's in NW Florida.......just about as hot as south Florida in the summer........and all of their air conditioners do cycle on and off, but the duty cycle runs pretty high in Aug-Sept.

One other thought is that if you still have your original air conditioners, the compressors are the old style piston type compressors. They lose efficiency as they age and wear, so their duty cycle gradually increases to the point where they run all the time. A "loose" compressor usually makes all kinds of noise before it fails. Have you noticed more noise than usual lately?
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Arl798 said:
OK...Thx a lot for the info. Will def. take a close listen but from what I recall over the last 3 years they sound the exact same. I know my windshield is nearing to hot to touch for most of the day so that cant be helping. The windshield and side window covers I will install should help with this.

Thx again as always.

Andrew
Click to expand...

I can attest that tint makes a huge difference…and looks great IMHO. Last year I replaced the original salon A/C unit with the recommended new unit from CruisAir. What a difference! The compressor is almost silent (in comparison) and has no problem keeping up on the hot/humid days. I think the fan moves a larger volume of air as well.
 
Care to share what the recommended replacement unit is? was it difficult to install? Price? Did your power consumption change much?

Nepenthe said:
I can attest that tint makes a huge difference…and looks great IMHO. Last year I replaced the original salon A/C unit with the recommended new unit from CruisAir. What a difference! The compressor is almost silent (in comparison) and has no problem keeping up on the hot/humid days. I think the fan moves a larger volume of air as well.
Click to expand...
 
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Radar mast flopping around on fiberglass arch...

We are under contract, pending survey, on a 2001 400 DB with Cummins 6CTA 8.3M diesels. We did the sea trial this week and at WOT, 2650 rpm, 35 mph, the radar mast was flopping around. See video
link below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbcmL_lBSpE&feature=youtu.be

Anyone have any issues like this?
 
truk911 said:
Radar mast flopping around on fiberglass arch...

We are under contract, pending survey, on a 2001 400 DB with Cummins 6CTA 8.3M diesels. We did the sea trial this week and at WOT, 2650 rpm, 35 mph, the radar mast was flopping around. See video
link below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbcmL_lBSpE&feature=youtu.be

Anyone have any issues like this?
Click to expand...

No, that looks bad. That open array antenna is too big (and heavy) sitting on top of a 4 foot mast. You are going to need some serious reinforcements inside the arch to fix it. What does the fiberglass look like around the base of the mount?
 
Did you inspect the mount? Was everything tight?

I don't have this issue, but have done a fair amount of research on an open array on the 400db. Everything I have read and found points to the tall mast and the arch not being made to support the open array antenna.

I know of two boats with a similar set up. They both used stainless (one wire, the other tubing) to reinforce the mast. The support went from the top of the mast just under the array down forward to the sides of the arch. I may have a photo somewhere, I will take a look.
 
PMC said:
No, that looks bad. That open array antenna is too big (and heavy) sitting on top of a 4 foot mast. You are going to need some serious reinforcements inside the arch to fix it. What does the fiberglass look like around the base of the mount?
Click to expand...

The fiberglass looked solid, no stress crack. At cruise, 25 mph, it seemed fine, just when we did the WOT test, it started flopping.
 
SR400DB said:
Did you inspect the mount? Was everything tight?

I don't have this issue, but have done a fair amount of research on an open array on the 400db. Everything I have read and found points to the tall mast and the arch not being made to support the open array antenna.

I know of two boats with a similar set up. They both used stainless (one wire, the other tubing) to reinforce the mast. The support went from the top of the mast just under the array down forward to the sides of the arch. I may have a photo somewhere, I will take a look.
Click to expand...

Yes, the mast is tight and the array is tight on the mast. Would love to see any pictures of one that is supported, if you have any.

Thanks!
 
Arl798 said:
Care to share what the recommended replacement unit is? was it difficult to install? Price? Did your power consumption change much?
Click to expand...

Al from Beard Marine helped me with this unit…and had a good sale running last fall. The replacement is the Cruisair STX16. (STX16-HV 410A 115V 60HZ ONLY). I also purchased the Sound Shield (COVER, SOUND VT/ST14-16K SHORT) and a cable adapter so that I could use the digital thermostat and wiring that was already in place.

If anything, I think the power consumption and initial spike are less, if I recall correctly.

List price for the upgrade was $3,070. But, as I said, there was a sale running.
 
Thx for the info...3k isin't crazy...I can't live without AC haha

Nepenthe said:
Al from Beard Marine helped me with this unit…and had a good sale running last fall. The replacement is the Cruisair STX16. (STX16-HV 410A 115V 60HZ ONLY). I also purchased the Sound Shield (COVER, SOUND VT/ST14-16K SHORT) and a cable adapter so that I could use the digital thermostat and wiring that was already in place.

If anything, I think the power consumption and initial spike are less, if I recall correctly.

List price for the upgrade was $3,070. But, as I said, there was a sale running.
Click to expand...
 
Any of you know our hull speed for efficient cruising, regardless of time? I have been using 1100rpm on Cummins which puts me in the 7-9 knt range depending on current and wind. But that's just a hunch to pick that rpm.
 
Arl798 said:
Was wondering if anyone knows if the mirror in the front of the V-berth in a 400 sedan bridge is removable to gain access to the anchor locker?
Click to expand...


I believe that bulkhead is solid and the only access is thru the deck hatch. I've put my son in there to help reinstall the windlass. There is plenty of room once you make it thru the hatch.
 
ZZ13 said:
Any of you know our hull speed for efficient cruising, regardless of time? I have been using 1100rpm on Cummins which puts me in the 7-9 knt range depending on current and wind. But that's just a hunch to pick that rpm.
Click to expand...


900-950 rpm's should give you a 7 ish knot cruise speed and just over 400 miles of range with a 20% reserve and running the generator 100% of the time. Of course, this is very dependent on sea conditions, wind, current, etc.
 
+1 on SR's numbers.
A recent 500 mile round trip cruise that the bulk of the moving was done in alternating sets of 1 hour at 950 rpm and 1 hour of 2200 rpm gave us 16.5 gph fuel burn averaging 16 mph. 950 rpm made 8 mph, and 2200 rpm made 24 to 25 mph depending on fuel load. The boat was heavy for long cruising, including spares not normally carried and the rib on the platform.

Here are some numbers that were recorded on the trip as base numbers for my future reference. some of you may be interested.
conditions: weather: clear lake conditions: slight chop air temp: 75 water temp: 73 fuel: 3/4 fresh water: 3/4
Prop : 22 x 23 1/2"
Readings taken 2 hours into a 6 hour run @ 2200 rpm

IR readings: PORT STARBOARD

exterior of engine oil filter 185 190
turbo outlet @ pyrometer plug 490 500
turbo housing 165 168
transmission oil pump 134 135
HX 163 164
charge air pipe entering a/c 295 300
charge air pipe exiting a/c 118 120

RPM (digital laser)
WOT RPM: 2704 2690
shaft rpm: 1823 1814
 
my3sons said:
+1 on SR's numbers.
A recent 500 mile round trip cruise that the bulk of the moving was done in alternating sets of 1 hour at 950 rpm and 1 hour of 2200 rpm gave us 16.5 gph fuel burn averaging 16 mph. 950 rpm made 8 mph, and 2200 rpm made 24 to 25 mph depending on fuel load. The boat was heavy for long cruising, including spares not normally carried and the rib on the platform.
Click to expand...

Just got back from a 150 mile ICW round trip cruise to Charleston and back. On the way there we mostly went at cruise at 2150 rpms. We saw 25.5-27.5mph depending on current and wind direction. I slowed for cuts and a couple of no wake zones. Ended up having to accelerate to cruise 8 different times. That seemed to kill any kind of fuel economy. On the way back we had more time so we did the 950rpm econo setting for half the trip. We saw anywhere from 7.5-10.2mph. Fuel gauges didn't seem to budge during the few hours we did this. It's hard not to goose it and go. I like to cruise. But we are learning not to like it so we can afford our planned cruise to southern FL.
 
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Bill, that's good speed for 2150 rpm, I'm 3 mph under that when I'm not loaded down
 
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