The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread
- Thread starter Nehalennia
- Start date
wood136
New Member
- Aug 30, 2009
- 24
- Boat Info
- 2004 260 Sundancer, Raymarine C80 Gps, Radar, DSC, Sonar, 2005 Chevy 2500HD Diesel
- Engines
- 260 HP MPI w/ Bravo III
Would anyone be so kind to take some measurements of an existing anchor roller for a '01 through '04 sundancer 260? A hand or ruller next to it would be great to give perspective.
I am trying to get a roller fabricated and they need measurements.
Would anyone else like to get a roller fabricated? We could share the cost. The more the merrier (Cheaper)...:thumbsup:
I am trying to get a roller fabricated and they need measurements.
Would anyone else like to get a roller fabricated? We could share the cost. The more the merrier (Cheaper)...:thumbsup:
'99 -'04 is all the same. And it's very likely the same anchor roller is used on other boats, as well.
Look at Todd's picture for reference:
Starting on the deck, you've got 16" to the point where it takes a 20* down angle for 11.25" to the beginning of the flare. For another reference point, a straight line from the beginning of the "down angle" point to the center of the forward roller is 10-13/16". The rollers are 8.5" on center.
Not sure what pricing you got for the set-up from Sea Ray, but for something like this, that will always be the most expensive ($415 for anyone keeping track).
Like mentioned above, it is made by Windline, but I'm pretty sure it's made to Sea Ray's specs so you won't find it available through the aftermarket. Possibly, but it would take some digging to try and source it (if at all).
Hope that helps!
Look at Todd's picture for reference:
Starting on the deck, you've got 16" to the point where it takes a 20* down angle for 11.25" to the beginning of the flare. For another reference point, a straight line from the beginning of the "down angle" point to the center of the forward roller is 10-13/16". The rollers are 8.5" on center.
Not sure what pricing you got for the set-up from Sea Ray, but for something like this, that will always be the most expensive ($415 for anyone keeping track).
Like mentioned above, it is made by Windline, but I'm pretty sure it's made to Sea Ray's specs so you won't find it available through the aftermarket. Possibly, but it would take some digging to try and source it (if at all).
Hope that helps!
wood136
New Member
- Aug 30, 2009
- 24
- Boat Info
- 2004 260 Sundancer, Raymarine C80 Gps, Radar, DSC, Sonar, 2005 Chevy 2500HD Diesel
- Engines
- 260 HP MPI w/ Bravo III
Dennis,
Thanks for the measurements! How wide is the inside opening of the channel, and how tall is the rails of the channel? Also and lastly, what is the thickness of the stainless of the roller?
Thanks so much for your help! Hopefully if I save a couple of bucks on the roller we can be able to stay over on Nantucket and Block Island some time this summer!!
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks for the measurements! How wide is the inside opening of the channel, and how tall is the rails of the channel? Also and lastly, what is the thickness of the stainless of the roller?
Thanks so much for your help! Hopefully if I save a couple of bucks on the roller we can be able to stay over on Nantucket and Block Island some time this summer!!
Thanks,
Gary
Just wanted to share this. One of the things I haven't liked is the narrow access into the bilge. I'm in and out of there all the time and while once in I'm fine, I'm tiring of the fact that I have to "slide" in.
I was in need of new gas lifts, anyways (as you can plainly see) so I moved the mounting location of the brackets on the engine hatch. I didn't have to move them much (note the old holes in the picture), but it made a world of difference. I can now actually stand straight up in front of the engine and my head won't hit the hatch.
The only thing you need to do is fold the legs for the rear bench so that the hatch can open further (use a towel to protect the seat from the snaps, if you don't have the carpet in). I doubt I'll fold the legs for just a quickie, but when I anticipate being in and out a few times I will fold the legs out of the way.
I was in need of new gas lifts, anyways (as you can plainly see) so I moved the mounting location of the brackets on the engine hatch. I didn't have to move them much (note the old holes in the picture), but it made a world of difference. I can now actually stand straight up in front of the engine and my head won't hit the hatch.
The only thing you need to do is fold the legs for the rear bench so that the hatch can open further (use a towel to protect the seat from the snaps, if you don't have the carpet in). I doubt I'll fold the legs for just a quickie, but when I anticipate being in and out a few times I will fold the legs out of the way.
Last edited:
skolbe
Well-Known Member
- Oct 3, 2006
- 3,549
- Boat Info
- 320 Sundancer, Zodiac 290 Wave Inflatable Tohatsu 6HP, Boston Whaler 130 Sport
- Engines
- 350 Mag V-Drive - Kohler 5ecd
I have some gas struts from my 260 that were never installed - if anyone is interested PM me. I would like to get rid of them - they have never been opened.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Dennis
What's the towel in front of your starboard manifold? The hatch could be nice if it opened up bigger. Not a bad idea.
What's the towel in front of your starboard manifold? The hatch could be nice if it opened up bigger. Not a bad idea.
The trim pump is sitting on my workbench. I found a nick in one of the electrical wires, so I wanted to repair that. Plus, the mounting bracket was due for a paint job.
The towel is wrapped around the trim lines to catch drips.
Sometime I've got to rip all that old foam off - it turns to dust every time I touch it!
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Yeah mine's not that bad yet, but here's a site for that
http://www.soundprooffoam.com/soundproof-foam.html
or
I like the foam board with the foil on it, but it's not cheap.
http://www.soundrite-acoustics.com/Engine-Soundproofing-2-In-X-54-In-X-72-In-1-Lb-Ivf1020mn27.aspx
http://www.soundprooffoam.com/soundproof-foam.html
or
I like the foam board with the foil on it, but it's not cheap.
http://www.soundrite-acoustics.com/Engine-Soundproofing-2-In-X-54-In-X-72-In-1-Lb-Ivf1020mn27.aspx
Excellent... thanks for the links, Todd! It's on my "to-do" list, but there are other things ahead of it. I'll make a note of these links and I may revisit this when I get closer to doing it.
rabyers1
Member
Dennis,
I like your change to the strut upper mounting location on the hatch cover. Looks like an easy mod to get better access into the engine compartment. I think I will try it myself. Although I would miss having to do that half-twist contorsion move to get down in there that I have been doing. Thanks for the tip.
Robin
I like your change to the strut upper mounting location on the hatch cover. Looks like an easy mod to get better access into the engine compartment. I think I will try it myself. Although I would miss having to do that half-twist contorsion move to get down in there that I have been doing. Thanks for the tip.
Robin
Free mods are the best mods!
Robin - it took me all of about 3 seconds to no longer miss the twist!:smt001
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Hell if I can get the hatch to open up further I could install stairs into the engine bay. Actually the storage I installed in there makes a nice step.
rabyers1
Member
Todd - That storage system you have worked out is a thing of beauty. I am glad you posted new PICs of it as I have been meaning to get around to doing that and I intend to emulate (OK - copy) your design. You wouldn't have any pics on how you store your Newport grill by any chance? I remember you saying you had it up next to the water tank, I beleive?
That is a nice step down, Todd. I remember you posting about this a while back, but I forgot that you had the hinges there - I like that. I just capped my through hull (another "mod"... coming soon to a "thread" near you!) so I might be able to get away with no cut-out.
RAB, I have a round grill - but I'll get a pic for you of how mine is lashed down. Then you can take the best things from Todd's idea and the best from mine and make yours even better!
RAB, I have a round grill - but I'll get a pic for you of how mine is lashed down. Then you can take the best things from Todd's idea and the best from mine and make yours even better!
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
This was right after I installed it. It wasn't painted yet and I have since made the hole square instead of round. The square hole let's the Magma base nestle in there tighter.
It works great.
Here's one while I was taking shots of the shelf build in the bilge that is more updated.
I hope that helps.
Finally got the picture. The black stuff is just simply some foam rubber I had laying around that I used spray adhesive to attach. At least this way you have a couple pics to help with ideas for yours.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
That looks like it will work great.
