The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Well, I ran into a little setback yesterday when I went to take the boat out for a second, longer test of the new 383. Unfortunately, my window of time away from the office shrank dramatically and so I could only get on the water for about 45 minutes. I did some more mid-range cruising in that time and bumping up to max RPMs. However, there was a difference in WOT between the first run on Tuesday and the second yesterday. I filled the (almost) empty fuel tank. With that change alone - I couldn't get over 4,700 RPMs. I am not sure how the extra weight would affect WOT by a 300 RPM decrease? I wonder if 22Ps (maybe cupped) are in my future? Obviously got a lot more testing and break-in to do before changing wheels.
 
rabyers1 said:
Well, I ran into a little setback yesterday when I went to take the boat out for a second, longer test of the new 383. Unfortunately, my window of time away from the office shrank dramatically and so I could only get on the water for about 45 minutes. I did some more mid-range cruising in that time and bumping up to max RPMs. However, there was a difference in WOT between the first run on Tuesday and the second yesterday. I filled the (almost) empty fuel tank. With that change alone - I couldn't get over 4,700 RPMs. I am not sure how the extra weight would affect WOT by a 300 RPM decrease? I wonder if 22Ps (maybe cupped) are in my future? Obviously got a lot more testing and break-in to do before changing wheels.
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Since this is a brand new engine haven't you been advised not to run it at WOT until a break in period has passed?
 
Terri, IMO I see no reason to modify your whole complete existing bunk system or it’s mounts. There is a reason that front set of bunks are allowed to pivot. Going from your pic it looks as though the hull is changing shape right at that set of bunks. The pivot allows the bunk itself to line up for best fit against your hull.. If you want to improve loading put your efforts into adding another set of bunks forward for your keel to make contact with and /or glides to slick the bunks up. If you locate them correctly they will also help support the boats weight if that is a concern of yours. My .02 FWIW
I just noticed the bow thruster on a 260:grin:
 
Todd - My mechanic (Mercruiser Certified) advised me that I should run it at all throttle settings including up to WOT, but to not hold it on WOT for more than 15 - 20 seconds. This is the same advice that Sprink56 gave me on this forum a couple of weeks ago:

"As far as break in on a fresh motor that has no dyno time...run it at varying speeds for the first 10 hours. Don't be afraid to run WOT but don't hold it for more than about 30 seconds...but do stretch it out some. I wouldn't run at any one set engine speed for more than 10~15 minutes at a time...either fast or slow. Avoid long idle speed times especially during the first 5 hours. Watch all of the gauges closely and be on the look out for water and oil leaks....and don't freak if you see a few...just tighten what is leaking and go on. Watch the oil level and look for any metal that might be on the dip stick (this isn't likely).

Drop the oil and filter after 10...re-fill and take it out and run the be jezus out of it!!

I guarantee one thing...the first time you feel that big torque push when you get out of the hole and the bow falls over...stretch it out a bit and you'll have a grin from ear to ear.:thumbsup:"
 
Ok, sounds good. It's the long WOT runs with a freshy that aren't good. Also, like you mentioned keep the RPMs varied.

Still no pics?....shame on you.
 
I second Todd on the pics.....I know I've been dying to see that flaming top cover since you first posted about this.

As for the difference in performance.....you say you filled the tank....was it immediately prior to your run? If you have some trash/water in the tank (that would normally settle to the bottom, its possible you stirred it up when you filled up, thus affecting the performance.
 
Contaminated fuel is certainly something to look at. Although the motor starts right up, idles like a swiss watch and runs absolutely smooth and strong right up to the 4,700 RPM mark with no misses, hesitation or other signs of a fuel delivery problem. Nothing in its performance was different between my first two runs - except that the RPM at WOT was a little lower. In addition to the extra weight, the lake had a good chop going compared to a flatter surface on the first run. And I did only just touch 5,000 RPMs and then backed right off on the first run. As I have the 24p props, I may need to step down to the 22p's to get consistently in the 4,800 to 5,200 max RPM range recommended by mercury. First I obviously have to put a lot more time on the motor and evaluation of everything from identifying the cruising sweet spots to comparing fuel burn numbers with the old 5.7. At the end of the day - it may be a good thing to have my actual WOT be occurring at just under the recommended RPM range as I don't think I'll really ever need 5K RPMs with all that torque coming on so early in the power curve. The boat just jumps onto plane now. It is a remarkable difference. Sprink56 - You were right on with that. It is like a kick in the rear end.
 
I have a question regarding my 2000 260DA w/ 7.4L BIII. The top of my dipstick broke off, the yellow rubber part. I have been looking online to find one...any suggestions?
 
In case you're interested in what a '99-'04 looks like with no stripes (one little black strip is still there about the rubrail). Pay no attention to the old cockpit cover - it's just on when I buff to keep the new cover nice.

picture.php
[/IMG]
 
Woody said:
Terri, IMO I see no reason to modify your whole complete existing bunk system or it’s mounts. There is a reason that front set of bunks are allowed to pivot. Going from your pic it looks as though the hull is changing shape right at that set of bunks. The pivot allows the bunk itself to line up for best fit against your hull.. If you want to improve loading put your efforts into adding another set of bunks forward for your keel to make contact with and /or glides to slick the bunks up. If you locate them correctly they will also help support the boats weight if that is a concern of yours. My .02 FWIW
I just noticed the bow thruster on a 260:grin:
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Thanks Woody for the comments. I was suggesting to my better half that we add another cross member as well (and another set of articulating bunks). But we haven't decided yet. I do like the idea of adding some slicks to the bunks as well. We may try that first.

On the bow thruster, yea, it's an oddity on a 260 for sure, but it is a very cool option. We've already been in situations where it's nice to have (only had the boat 6 weeks or so). We're the third owners so can't ask the original owner why they thought they needed it.
 
Tide Knot said:
I have a question regarding my 2000 260DA w/ 7.4L BIII. The top of my dipstick broke off, the yellow rubber part. I have been looking online to find one...any suggestions?
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Should be able to get one from any Mercruiser store. Or, try Sierra parts for an aftermarket.

This is just a guess, but how about an automotive junkyard? Maybe just take yours into a local auto parts store and match it up.
 
Well, no time logged on the new motor this weekend due to family obligations out of town. I did get to sneak a quick picture on the cellphone camera though:

View attachment 7166
 
Almost always freshwater - we have several lakes around us. We did trailer down to the coast twice this year and will probably do it again a couple of times next summer, for two to three days at a stretch. So, I did consider the closed cooling option, but honestly, after sinking $11.5K into the engine, risers, other installation parts and labor - I decided to forego the extra cost for now - until I re-load the boat slushfund. If I start boating more often in the saltwater then I might convert it later myself.
 
Dennis' thread about the "home" solution for waste pump-out prompted me to think that this was a good time to dust off our thread for our particular boats. Anyway Dennis - i am very interested in building my own pump-out system for home use. The good news for me is that I can position my boat/trailer about 6' from my sewer vent access point. Can you tell me the model mac. pump that you use that screws directly into your desk waste plate opening?

Also, I like the sound of your thoughts on the modification to install a pump-out point on your transom and thus keep everything moving downhill from the tank. In that configuration - am I correct that you would just install a Y fitting and valves to re-direct from your current thru-hull somewhere downstream of the original macerator pump and then plumb that route to a quick disconnect fitting on the lower transom? I am not looking at my bilge when writing this - so I am speaking in generalities here. (The correct specific parts would apply)
 
rabyers1 said:
Dennis' thread about the "home" solution for waste pump-out prompted me to think that this was a good time to dust off our thread for our particular boats. Anyway Dennis - i am very interested in building my own pump-out system for home use. The good news for me is that I can position my boat/trailer about 6' from my sewer vent access point. Can you tell me the model mac. pump that you use that screws directly into your desk waste plate opening?

Also, I like the sound of your thoughts on the modification to install a pump-out point on your transom and thus keep everything moving downhill from the tank. In that configuration - am I correct that you would just install a Y fitting and valves to re-direct from your current thru-hull somewhere downstream of the original macerator pump and then plumb that route to a quick disconnect fitting on the lower transom? I am not looking at my bilge when writing this - so I am speaking in generalities here. (The correct specific parts would apply)
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Dennis' poop pump does look like it may have some logical uses for sure. On the way home from our normal launch to the house we have a rest stop on the highway that has holding tank dumps for RV's. His system may be the ticket for those on a trailer that have these nearby too. I normally pump out on our way home on the water but this would be a decent backup system.
 
Yeah, we haven't touched this thread in a while. How's everyone's season been? Mine's just about done. I'm still hoping for another day or two, but weather and schedules are not meshing too well.

Anyways, about the pooper shooter:

Any mac with 1-1/2" threads will fit (assuming your fitting has threads). If your waste fitting has threads, it's 1-1/2". Don't worry about thread pitch - all 1-1/2" mac's use the same pitch as the waste fittings.

The one I'm using is a Jabsco (ITT) 18590 series. http://www.jabsco.com/products/mari...ealed_macerator_18590_series/iid_20/index.htm

For the Y-valve, I'm using a Forespar unit. It's an actual valve/diverter so that's all I need. It gets mounted right after the T-pump, with one of the 1-1/2" hoses branching off and going to the thru hull (hull bottom). The other branch of the Y goes to the new waste fitting on my transom. http://www.forespar.com/onlineCatalog/2009/Marelon/marelon_yValves2009.shtml

Since I'm using a T-pump, I have to step-down to the 3/4" garden hose gradually. I wanted to avoid stepping down from 1-1/2" to 1" to 3/4" all on the outside of the boat. So, I found that Perko actually makes a 1" deck fitting. It does not use a barb connection on the backside, which is good since the transom is 2" thick. That would be near impossible to put hose clamps on the barb. Instead, this fitting is a 1" FPT. That way I can use a 4" nipple to get through the transom.

If you have a regular mac inside the boat, you wouldn't need to worry about all the "step-downing" of hose size. A regular mac will start with a 1" discharge, as well. Not 1-1/2".

By the way, that US Plastics link I provided (the quick connects)... Those fittings are made by Banjo Corp http://www.banjocorp.com/ They have more fittings than what US Plastics lists. The way I understand it, US Plastics would still be the retailer, you just have to tell them what you want.
 
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We had the boat out on Sunday - it was 74 and sunny here. But all in all I have only been able to get 6.5 hours logged on my new engine since the install. That's not much boating nor what I had in mind when I first got the boat back from the shop - life intervenes! I spent a good part of last month getting our sailboat prepped and moved to a yard at the coast, so I can continue that restoration project over the winter.

I can tell that the 383 is starting to loosen up a little, mostly thru throttle feel and my ear - but also at the tach. I am hoping to winterize the 260DA here shortly, but in a manner that allows me to continue to use her thru the winter.

Todd - Thanks for the info. on the rest area RV pump-out stations. I do not know if we have that here in NC, but I am going to find out.
 
rabyers1 said:
I am hoping to winterize the 260DA here shortly, but in a manner that allows me to continue to use her thru the winter.
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I'm contemplating the same thing. I'll winterize the water systems and just drop the water out of the engine. It won't be completely winterized, but at least I'll be safe until I'm ready to totally put it away, which will probably happen in December.

6.5 hours? Well, at least it's running nicely for you!
 
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