FYI our NTU 2001 340 8.1s Merc. support recommended mineral base 25w-40
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As @DrPringle mentioned they are just vent covers. There are a couple of close matches just watch the screw spacings. I have been looking at seeing if I can retrofit the stainless models.
https://sea-dog.com/groups/2119-thru-vent-abs
Lights are cools and can get expensive quickly. That is a personal preference. Like usual if they are not leaking or broken I would just leave them. I would probably eventually replace with new lights.
Actuator is a 4inch stroke on my 2004 340SDA. I replaced with this one from Amazon. You will need to replace the connector as it is probably corroded. I would look used a weatherpack connector on both sides.
Not much I can add. The VV will give you the smartcraft data. Troubleshooting the old monitors can be frustrating and parts are not available.
Looks like you have the cover but it is just black. If that is the case tecngraphic can refinish for you.
At this point you are going to add new if you don't have it so I would look to match to what ever electronics manufacture you are going to use to keep integration simple. Most people seem to go with Garmin or Raymarine.
I would also look at the 2003.5-2008 Sundancer model year thread as it has lots of good info specific to our model.
-Kevin
Great advice. Thanks! I'll order a couple of vent covers and actuator for now. I guess I'll have to get to the boat to address the other issues. Beautiful boat, but it's going to need some attention... (-;
Thank you , I see it nowI believe that’s the support for the board making the bunk at the dinette.
Were you able to pull the door out without removing the cover behind the sink.Just getting done with replacing the tracks and trucks on the cabin door
Quick prop question. We got our first 340 last November. It’s a 2000 with 7.4 MPI’s and the 1.5:1 transmissions. It currently has 17x16 3 blade props on it. They certainly have some cupping to the blades, but I’m not sure to what extent. They aren’t in bad shape at all. I’m pulling the boat out at the end of next month for fresh bottom paint and to install transom lights. I had a 330DA that I purchased a new set of props for that are still brand new. However, it was equipped with 2.0:1 transmissions and these particular props are 18x20 3 blade (no cupping). From what I’m finding in my research, my particular model of 340 has 1.5” prop shafts and the props that I purchased for my 330 are bored for 1.25” shafts. The 340 that we have now is very quick to come out of the water and tops out around 35MPH. What I don’t like about it is that I have to be at 3400ish or more to stay on plane and the engines top out right at 5KRPM starboard and 4800 port. That seems a little high to me compared to what my old 7.4’s ran in my 330. They were carbureted though so maybe that’s a big part of the difference. I could stay on plane at 2900-3000 with my old 330 and would like to be able to do the same with the 340 that we have now. Maybe that’s not possible…I’m not sure. I’m just wondering if I cut these new props that I have to a 1.5” bore, if they’ll work on this 340. Not sure if the jump to an 18” prop as well as going up 4” in pitch is going to be too much. Any insight that any of you have on this situation would be greatly appreciated. I just hate to have these new props here and not be able to use them. Thanks in advance for your help!
Your 7.4s should run 4000 to 4800 rpm’s. I’d either check and change your current props or maybe try a 17 x 16 four blade. That extra blade should drop your rpm’s 200-400 and put you in the mid range. You can look up the original size in the parts manual. And searching here will give you what others have done.
At mine today...1" and 2"What size are the boot stripes on my 2001 340Da.
The plastic grills that are over the motor intake vents are missing or broken. I'm going to put 1/4" stainless steel hardware cloth over them. They are just big enough I could see a small bird building a nest up inside one of them.
Not a comment about trucks or tracks, but your avatar is hilarious!You don't need to remove the cover to change the trucks. You will need to remove the cover to change the tracks. I am only posting this in case someone searches for it. Contact me for help with removing the cover. You can remove the door without removing the cover.
Did mine a couple of months ago. Procured eight replacement vent covers and inserted s/s mesh. Looks clean and preventsThe plastic grills that are over the motor intake vents are missing or broken. I'm going to put 1/4" stainless steel hardware cloth over them. They are just big enough I could see a small bird building a nest up inside one of them.
Nice my only concern is if the cotton woods and spiders might block even the 1/4" hardware cloth I used. Those sure are pretty it's a same you barely can see them.Did mine a couple of months ago. Procured eight replacement vent covers and inserted s/s mesh. Looks clean and preventsView attachment 140657 stowaways.