420/44 DB Owners Club

ttmott said:
The problem manifests when the watermaker is running and AC is not or AC shuts off. That's when the watermaker raw water pump took the prime away from the AC system raw water pump in my case.
Click to expand...
I wonder if a check valve between the T to the watermaker and the AC pump would work to prevent the watermaker from drawing from that side and taking the prime away. A similar one between the T and the watermaker would maybe prevent the AC from drawing water from the watermaker, for times when only one or the other is operating.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
bajturner said:
I have had this same accumulator for a few years. It has worked well. I found fine-tuning the air pressure on the bladder side was useful to optimize the pump operation.

On low flow operation the pump comes on for about 3 seconds every 15 seconds or so. When a tap is fully open, it takes a couple seconds before the pump starts then it stays on until a few seconds after the tap is turned off.
Click to expand...

I set my accumulator at 17psi. That’s 3psi below the lowest ‘pump on’ trigger point. Be interested to know what you set your pressure to?
 
Alex F said:
Tom,
I understand that this might be a good solution for boats in colder areas. So, I wonder how practical is this approach for boaters in a tropical climate. What I mean is that most of the long trips are done during hot summer months, when we need to run ACs 24/7. Is it really practical to shut your ACs and allow the water maker run for at least an hour to make say 20 gallons of water? I assume you're making water a bit at the time instead of waiting for the tank to go to empty.
Click to expand...
That’s the best part, from what everyone is saying it’s preferred to leave your ac on. It works for me and no need to crawl into the bilge to flip a valve every time you want to make water..
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
Does anybody use the NBOA insurance advertised on the right of this screen. Do they underwrite the insurance themselves or are they a broker?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I use them, they r a broker but the cheapest I found.
 
Thanks on the info on NBOA...I have not heard back from them. I dropped them a note so I will let you know what happens.

I got a quote from Chubb...$3500. That is 50% higher than Traveller's. But...I have not seen the renewal from Traveller's for my January 15th ish renewal.

Trying to shop around.

Cheers!
 
I am on the Ohio River, close to ironton oh. Mine runs Approx $1250 per year.
Coverage $275 k
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
Thanks on the info on NBOA...I have not heard back from them. I dropped them a note so I will let you know what happens.

I got a quote from Chubb...$3500. That is 50% higher than Traveller's. But...I have not seen the renewal from Traveller's for my January 15th ish renewal.

Trying to shop around.

Cheers!
Click to expand...
I have Chubb around the same price. Just compare the coverage as Chubb is a premium policy which covers mechanical failures. My son works in the insurance industry and for me he recommended Chubb. Compare the coverages and see what works for you.
 
Anyone here know how to remove the factory front stateroom TV
Edit. I found an old post from. 2017 stating how to
 
The sink strainers in both of the Heads are starting to bubble and look terrible. I have found some replacements but am wondering if the sink is stainless or chrome.

I think stainless. I can polish them to a nice shine and still look really good. The strainers not so much.

I replaced the one in the galley sink to match the new faucet. Looks really nice in there.

The strainers in the heads are mocking me. I am trying to decide if I should use stainless or chrome.

We are sitting on the boat down here in Gig Harbor...where we bought the boat. We have lots of yacht club activities so we thought we would bring the boat down to have a place to stay.

It's cold and rainy but the boat is nice and cozy.

Cheers!
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
...I replaced the one in the galley sink to match the new faucet. Looks really nice in there....
Click to expand...

Would you mind sharing the source? I need to replace mine as well.
 
Here is the faucet:

Delta Faucet Keele Matte Black Kitchen Faucet Black, Kitchen Faucets with Pull Down Sprayer, Kitchen Sink Faucet, Faucet for Kitchen Sink, Magnetic Docking Spray Head, Matte Black 19824LF-BL

And here is the strainer:

Westbrass Junior Basket Style Bar Sink Strainer, Matte Black, D218-62

Both from Amazon. The strainer fits just right in the galley sink. There is a selection of colors/finishes and this one matched the color of the faucet we selected. The old strainer was in place when I took this picture. The new one is slightly larger diameter on the flange so it fits nicely.

Edit: I turned the faucet 180 deg so the handle is on the right so it makes more sense when using it.

New Faucet (2).jpg


Not the best picture but there it is:

Sink Strainer.jpg
 
Just fired up the watermaker. All of the dock water is shut off as it is close to freezing at night.

It is running well. Thanks to the gent that suggested this Sea Water Pro. I like how this unit is put together and after watching some of the threads on the Watermaker group on facybook, these have a lot less issues and great support.

Getting about 62 TDS right now on new RO membranes. I am sure that will change...

We are in Gig Harbor for a month so without the watermaker, I am not sure how we would source water. Maybe 4 one gallon jugs at a time from our friends house 5 miles away...

Loving winter boating on the 44 Sedan Bridge!

Cheers!
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
Here is the faucet:

Delta Faucet Keele Matte Black Kitchen Faucet Black, Kitchen Faucets with Pull Down Sprayer, Kitchen Sink Faucet, Faucet for Kitchen Sink, Magnetic Docking Spray Head, Matte Black 19824LF-BL

And here is the strainer:

Westbrass Junior Basket Style Bar Sink Strainer, Matte Black, D218-62

Both from Amazon. The strainer fits just right in the galley sink. There is a selection of colors/finishes and this one matched the color of the faucet we selected. The old strainer was in place when I took this picture. The new one is slightly larger diameter on the flange so it fits nicely.

Edit: I turned the faucet 180 deg so the handle is on the right so it makes more sense when using it.

View attachment 137655

Not the best picture but there it is:

View attachment 137656
Click to expand...
Nice update to the sink. Looks like it was Original Equipment. Good job!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RBB
Insurance update in anticipation of a January 20th renewal date.

I did not hear back from NBOA after sending in an inquiry on Nov 16th. All I got was a text: "We are out of the office and will get back to you when we are open".

So I texted back last night to see if there had been any action. What I got back today was the only company that can compete with Traveler's is Chubb. He also said that another company has quoted Chubb so he cannot. So apparently the brokers register their leads and quotes.

So NBOA is a broker, as was noted here previously, and have the same insurance providers as every one else. Nothing unique...

So Chubb basically charges 1% of their stated value plus another 1/10% for liability. So it is 50% higher thab Traveller's. But, the value they are insuring for is $335k. Well below any reasonable replacement to get a boat on Puget Sound. Maybe a Florida boat could be found for that price.

I am still waiting to hear from Traveler's for their renewal.

Supposedly Chubb covers machinery above the waterline without depreciation. I believe Traveler's does depreciate running gear. Our friends had a little bah bah in 2021 that took out the props and one shaft. I do not know the numbers but there was a lot of "out of pocket" because of the depreciation. I did not ask our friends how much it cost as they are very experienced boaters and are embarrassed by their accident. They would have shared with us the costs if they had wanted to.

So besides sort of documenting this process in this post, I would like to see if there is anyone with a real world experience with a claim from a depreciation type insurance company vs how Chubb handles a claim.

Hope everyone had a great Christmas!

We are in Gig Harbor enjoying the King Tides.

Gig Harbor King Tide.jpg
 
I just posted the Raymarine E120s and Dash Panels in the classifieds.

Just so you know!

Cheers!
 
Hello All!

Three things on my mind this morning around fueling up. We stopped Tuesday in Oak Harbor, WA on the way back on day 28 of our trip to fuel up. The Diesel was $3.64 with tax (including 5 cent per gallon discount for over 100 gallons).

So I usually look at the Vessel View to see the amount of fuel in the tanks. I then calculate amount to fill the tanks minus 10 gallons. I think I need to calculate 20 gallons less than full as the filler will burp out the overflow when I use minus 10 gallons. I can catch it most times as the noise changes but I have to be quick. Spilling is a big no-no! I just figured the sensors on the tank are more accurate than +/- 20 gallons. What are your experiences?

Noting that the fuel will flow out of the overflow when it is full, what happens when you hit the throttles with topped up tanks. Is there a check valve at the tank that keeps the fuel from surging back out when accelerating?

And one last observation...boating in Winter is nice as there are not a lot of other boats and traffic. It is easy to get a Yacht Club reciprocal moorage ect. On the subject of fueling, there is no line up at the fuel dock. But...the attendants take a while to show up so the net time getting to and fueling at the dock is about the same as bobbing around waiting for your turn. The marinas are low staffed during this time. We made use of our wait time pumping out and packing up for getting all our stuff off the boat. That made the departure from the boat really fast. Anyhow, just an observation.

This thread is at the bottom of the page...gotta bump it back to the top!

Cheers!
 
I try to do the math as to what it will take based on level in the tank. I'm usually pretty close. I then try to listen for the gurgle at the vent when I'm at the last 10 gallons. I think minus 20 gallons is significant if you short it. You will definitely notice your gauges will be between 3/4 and full. I like to fill as much as possible without spilling so this means multiple trips to the helm to check the level as I fill. I tried installing nmea2k remote fuel gauges so i can track the fuel level from the cockpit but they working intermittently. Also have never noticed any leaks at the vents from running with tanks topped off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,229
Messages
1,428,966
Members
61,120
Latest member
jingenio
Back
Top