Official 19SPX/21SPX/SPX190/SPX210 Thread

It is confusing on the 2754 lbs as listed in the spec sheet. There was quite a bit of discussion on the topic back on page 18 of this tread. Even if the 2754 includes the motor weight, that would put it at about 3400 lbs for boat, motor, access. and gear. Still over the 3100 lb trailer rating.

If I was only using this trailer on short runs, or to the lake in the spring and to storage in the fall, I would for sure stick with the single axle.
 
Yes, I was part of that discussion. Its not confusing, as the spec SHOULD list the entire weight. Unless it specifically says otherwise. 2754 would be an unusually high weight for a 19' hull alone.

Regardless, if I were personally concerned, there are single axle trailers out there that would meet the weight requirement. Nevertheless, if you like tandems, that's what you should buy.
 
I have single axle galvanized trailer, I have never seen grease fitting like this, anyone familiar with them?
I do see needle adapters that push into Jerk fittings, will that work?. I think the grease is goes thu axle to inner bearing and comes back out the outer bearing. Would it be okay to add buddy bearing, now the grease would move from outer to inner bearing?
 

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PERRYTIME said:
I have single axle galvanized trailer, I have never seen grease fitting like this, anyone familiar with them?
I do see needle adapters that push into Jerk fittings, will that work?. I think the grease is goes thu axle to inner bearing and comes back out the outer bearing. Would it be okay to add buddy bearing, now the grease would move from outer to inner bearing?
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I have the same fittings on my SeaRay 190 trailer. According to the manufacturer the axle was too wide to fit a normal zerk fitting, so they used this odd type.

These are EZLube hubs. Squirt grease into that fitting until it comes out around the axle. Continue until clean fresh grease comes out, while rotating the wheel.

Yes, you need a needle adapter for the grease gun. It works OK, just takes a lot longer. You can't replace them with a zerk, or use a bearing buddy.
 
Beaver Lake AR said:
Hello,

I have a 2015 SPX 190 with a Mercury 150HP FourStroke. The motor will trim up but not down. I used the manual release to lower the motor (I checked trim fluid level while trimmed all the way up first, which was fine).

Anyway, I’d like to troubleshoot or replace the trim relays. Anyone done this? The relays appear to be located under the port side plastic panel under the motor cover (same plastic panel that has all the maintenance information on it). I thought I’d ask before I try to remove the panel and possibly mess up something.
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Well, first time ever and no replies from anyone. Nonetheless, I’ll let you all know what was wrong with my trim in case any of you face the same problem.

Remember my SPX is the 2015 190 OB.

Ended up needing the whole trim unit replaced. I understand that the internal valves go out somewhat frequently on the Mercury Fourstroke 150. The was a $1,500 repair—most of that parts. My motor has around 200 hours on it.

Couple other notes.

1. If you are out and your trim gets stuck up, make sure you know how to use the release. You’ll need a very large screwdriver and you have to get in the water to get to the release screw. Don’t be caught unaware as I was. Please educate yourself how to do this. Refer to your owners manual, also plenty of “how to” videos out there as well.

2. The trim release screw is plastic and strips very easily. My new trim unit uses a metal release screw. Glad they changed that. If your outboard motor is newer, you will likely have the newer design.

3. The new trim unit moves slower and provides much more precise trim control. I like it a lot!

4. The new trim unit has a trim limit that does not allow the prop to come out of the water with the motor on. My old one did not have this feature. I like this feature a lot as well.

I guess some advantages to this happening. Sure learned A lot as well.
 
Beaver Lake AR said:
Well, first time ever and no replies from anyone.

I understand that the internal valves go out somewhat frequently on the Mercury Fourstroke 150. The was a $1,500 repair—most of that parts. My motor has around 200 hours on it.
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I didn't reply to your thread because I didn't know the answer. If I did, I certainly would have. Looks like other didn't know either.

I also didn't know about the "frequent" problems you described. A google search didn't give me any reason for concern.

Since I also have a 150 I would be anxious to see any links...
 
GypsmJim said:
I didn't reply to your thread because I didn't know the answer. If I did, I certainly would have. Looks like other didn't know either.

I also didn't know about the "frequent" problems you described. A google search didn't give me any reason for concern.

Since I also have a 150 I would be anxious to see any links...
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Sorry, on second read that seemed snarky, wasn’t intended. I’ve learned a ton from this group and it was just weird with absolutely no replies.

I will try to find the link where i read of the trim valves sticking or failing stuck. The Mercury 150 is a great engine and doesn’t “frequently” break. I guess when it does this is one of the more common but still rare issues.
 
Anyone know how I find out what gear ratio I have on my 2016 19SPX I/O with 4.3L MPI? Damaged my 14.5X19P Black Max and looking for a new prop SS. Dont actually know my WOT RPM and Top Speed and trying to use the https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/ca/propellers/selector/#!/step-one
I am assuming it is 1.62
Using for wake-boarding/water-skiing and want better gas mileage, so I am leaning towards the Enertia® ECO
I get different results based on gear ratio:
Alpha 1.81 Gear Ratio -3 Blade 16 X 21 RH (Black Max is 14.5 X21)
Alpha 1.62 Gear Ratio- 3 Blade 16 X 19 RH (Black Max is 14.5 X19)
 
BusterDouglas said:
Anyone know how I find out what gear ratio I have on my 2016 19SPX I/O with 4.3L MPI? Damaged my 14.5X19P Black Max and looking for a new prop SS. Dont actually know my WOT RPM and Top Speed and trying to use the https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/ca/propellers/selector/#!/step-one
I am assuming it is 1.62
Using for wake-boarding/water-skiing and want better gas mileage, so I am leaning towards the Enertia® ECO
I get different results based on gear ratio:
Alpha 1.81 Gear Ratio -3 Blade 16 X 21 RH (Black Max is 14.5 X21)
Alpha 1.62 Gear Ratio- 3 Blade 16 X 19 RH (Black Max is 14.5 X19)
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There is a sticker on the side of the drive with the ratio.

Did you also damage the original SS Vengeance prop?

Watersports and fuel mileage are at opposite ends of the spectrum. Any money spent on a prop to try and get better GPH during watersports will probably take you 30 years to recoup.
 
Lazy Daze said:
There is a sticker on the side of the drive with the ratio.

Did you also damage the original SS Vengeance prop?

Watersports and fuel mileage are at opposite ends of the spectrum. Any money spent on a prop to try and get better GPH during watersports will probably take you 30 years to recoup.
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bought boat used didnt come with a SS prop. I am looking for better hole shot and being able to maintain speed while in tow which Black Max didnt seem to be able to do. Looking at the Enertia Eco which is on Mecury recommended list of props. Not sure if it will help reduce slippage as well.

Thank you confirmed it is 1.62
 
BusterDouglas said:
bought boat used didnt come with a SS prop. I am looking for better hole shot and being able to maintain speed while in tow which Black Max didnt seem to be able to do. Looking at the Enertia Eco which is on Mecury recommended list of props. Not sure if it will help reduce slippage as well
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I have the 150 outboard on the same boat. I switched from the OEM Black Max to an Enertia (the std. one not the ECO). I had no problems with hole shot - just wanted to go to SS as I do with all boats.

The slip was reduced from 15% to 8%, mid range (~30 mph) fuel usage was reduced 10% and I gained 3 mph top speed. Of course, in both cases the WOT rpm was spot on. My data collection was taken from VesselView.
 
GypsmJim said:
I have the 150 outboard on the same boat. I switched from the OEM Black Max to an Enertia (the std. one not the ECO). I had no problems with hole shot - just wanted to go to SS as I do with all boats.

The slip was reduced from 15% to 8%, mid range (~30 mph) fuel usage was reduced 10% and I gained 3 mph top speed. Of course, in both cases the WOT rpm was spot on. My data collection was taken from VesselView.
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Thanks Jim. Not sure if I/O vs outboard plays a huge role. I also have vesselview but havnt recorded any numbers as of yet. Black Max has some dings/small chunks in it now, so no way for me to get accurate readings now.
 
19P is low enough that with your hull design you should be getting good results (assuming the prop was in good shape... and you could get it fixed, by the way). But certainly a different prop can do even more.

But first... are you using the trim properly and keeping it trimmed most of the way down? That hull has VERY little bow rise.

You may want to look into Smart Tabs before a prop. They'll help much more than a prop and are less expensive, too.
 
Lazy Daze said:
19P is low enough that with your hull design you should be getting good results (assuming the prop was in good shape... and you could get it fixed, by the way). But certainly a different prop can do even more.

But first... are you using the trim properly and keeping it trimmed most of the way down? That hull has VERY little bow rise.

You may want to look into Smart Tabs before a prop. They'll help much more than a prop and are less expensive, too.
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Bow rise and trimming are not really a problem for me. Pulling a 200LB waterskier out of the water is a problem.

Not sure what the cost to repair and if this prop can even be repaired vs. The cost of a new 14.5X19 Black Max ($250)
we do a lot of mooring in shallow sandy areas as well and in the event of logs, rocks etc.. I was leaning towards SS as well and keeping this one as is to get back to dock in the event of a major damage to new prop. Any thoughts?
 

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BusterDouglas said:
Bow rise and trimming are not really a problem for me. Pulling a 200LB waterskier out of the water is a problem.

Not sure what the cost to repair and if this prop can even be repaired vs. The cost of a new 14.5X19 Black Max ($250)
we do a lot of mooring in shallow sandy areas as well and in the event of logs, rocks etc.. I was leaning towards SS as well and keeping this one as is to get back to dock in the event of a major damage to new prop. Any thoughts?
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Let's just fully clarify (it's not clear)... upon take off, you're putting the drive ALL the way down EVERY time and smoothly advancing the throttle to 100% power?

A SS prop will give you better "bite" into the water than an aluminum with all other factors (pitch, blade design, etc) being the same. However, if you hit something hard, you run more of a risk of damaging the drivetrain.

Around here, a prop shop would charge about $85, give or take, to fix that Black Max. It's a fine, general duty prop - but certainly a Vengeance or Enertia would provide better performance. But again, it's a big dollar prop and Smart Tabs would do better.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Let's just fully clarify (it's not clear)... upon take off, you're putting the drive ALL the way down EVERY time and smoothly advancing the throttle to 100% power?

A SS prop will give you better "bite" into the water than an aluminum with all other factors (pitch, blade design, etc) being the same. However, if you hit something hard, you run more of a risk of damaging the drivetrain.

Around here, a prop shop would charge about $85, give or take, to fix that Black Max. It's a fine, general duty prop - but certainly a Vengeance or Enertia would provide better performance. But again, it's a big dollar prop and Smart Tabs would do better.
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Yes that is correct, trim is all the way down and throttle is engaged at a smooth speed for water skiing but slower for wakeboarders. Can that prop be salvaged and still kept as a spare?

So you would recommend fix this prop or get another Black Max 19P and install Smart Tabs?
 
Thanks for the clarification.

Well, I can only offer my opinion on this - and there can really be a couple different options that you could do. BUT... yes, that prop can be brought back to like new. Smart Tabs are going to help with other aspects of boating, as well (see their website). So, yes, I would start with the Smart Tabs and a reconditioned prop. Worst case, you spent money on a (now good) spare prop and the Smart Tabs... which again, have other benefits, too.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Thanks for the clarification.

Well, I can only offer my opinion on this - and there can really be a couple different options that you could do. BUT... yes, that prop can be brought back to like new. Smart Tabs are going to help with other aspects of boating, as well (see their website). So, yes, I would start with the Smart Tabs and a reconditioned prop. Worst case, you spent money on a (now good) spare prop and the Smart Tabs... which again, have other benefits, too.
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Any particular smart tabs and size you recommend for this boat Nauticus ST1290-60 or PT1290-60?
 
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