300 Sundancer questions.

Phil S said:
My stereo only works in the cabin. The amp for the cockpit speakers is blown in my case, but everything in the cabin works. You might have amp issues like Jimmi says. There is also a stereo amplifier breaker in the DC panel. When you say not working -- nothing comes on or you just don't get any sound? Do you have the Clarion remote at the helm?
Click to expand...
Nothing comes on at all. I'm definitely not a tech person with electronics.
 
Jimmi said:
Some thoughts.
Generator, did u check your oil level? Check your impeller, pull hose to make sure old impeller pieces aren’t blocking your flow, these prevented mine from running right.
Stereo? Start w fuses at the amps and behind radio.
Lighting plug Could be a fuse or may have disconnected itself. May even have corroded. Check under helm. I’m sure others can put more info in. My thoughts on where to start.
Click to expand...
I just had a mechanic do a ton of work on thos boat. I will ask him if he did the impellor work as I asked.
Thanks for the feedback.
 
Last season I had a similar issue. Window in my head wasn’t fully tightened. We didn’t get that much rain, but I was shocked as to how much water was in the boat. I now check my windows every time I’m on the boat as it took me about 2 weeks to determine the original week and had to shop vac water about 4-5 times. I also use a carpet extractor on that area to help get rid of ALL the water.
 
Michael Horne said:
Last season I had a similar issue. Window in my head wasn’t fully tightened. We didn’t get that much rain, but I was shocked as to how much water was in the boat. I now check my windows every time I’m on the boat as it took me about 2 weeks to determine the original week and had to shop vac water about 4-5 times. I also use a carpet extractor on that area to help get rid of ALL the water.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the site! Glad you found the leak too. If water collects here because this is the lowest point, too bad there is not a drain from here into the shower sump where the sink and AC hoses area already going.
 
How much standing water is normal in the shower sump area? Not the sump box itself, but the area around the sump. I wanted to add more to make sure the outside float switch and pump work, but my wet/dry vac doesn't hold that much so I'd rather not do that yet.

I checked mine today and there was maybe 3/4" in there. I vac'd out as much as I could, so next time I'll see if there is any more water in there. The sump pump inside the box is working -- I tested it -- although the two aft screws that hold down the sump cover were loose. So that is fixed. And the AC condensate drain is working into the sump.

I also noticed that when I run any of the sinks (wetbar, head or galley) they all empty out the common drain through-hull and not into the sump.
 
Phil S said:
How much standing water is normal in the shower sump area? Not the sump box itself, but the area around the sump. I wanted to add more to make sure the outside float switch and pump work, but my wet/dry vac doesn't hold that much so I'd rather not do that yet.

I checked mine today and there was maybe 3/4" in there. I vac'd out as much as I could, so next time I'll see if there is any more water in there. The sump pump inside the box is working -- I tested it -- although the two aft screws that hold down the sump cover were loose. So that is fixed. And the AC condensate drain is working into the sump.

I also noticed that when I run any of the sinks (wetbar, head or galley) they all empty out the common drain through-hull and not into the sump.
Click to expand...
I don't think there should be any standing water outside of the sump box.
 
HawkX66 said:
I don't think there should be any standing water outside of the sump box.
Click to expand...

Ok, in that case I got myself a situation here :eek:

I'll monitor it to see if I get more water. If the sump cover was loose, it's possible that some water from the sump spilled out last time I had the boat out.

I did have that issue last week with the heavy rain and one of the portlights not completely shut.

I've got the float switch and 800 gph pump inside the sump, and another float switch and 1100 gph pump outside the box. This is after I vac'd out the standing water, and there's some pink in the sump leftover from winterization.

upload_2021-6-2_17-3-3.png
 
Phil S said:
Ok, in that case I got myself a situation here :eek:

I'll monitor it to see if I get more water. If the sump cover was loose, it's possible that some water from the sump spilled out last time I had the boat out.

I did have that issue last week with the heavy rain and one of the portlights not completely shut.

I've got the float switch and 800 gph pump inside the sump, and another float switch and 1100 gph pump outside the box. This is after I vac'd out the standing water, and there's some pink in the sump leftover from winterization.

View attachment 106494
Click to expand...
The previous owner of my 290da drilled holes in the bottom of the sump box because there was some water getting in there. In my case it was from a leaking water tank fitting. He wasn't into fixing the root of the problems.

IMG_20201003_150713.jpg
 
We took our first ride in our 2002 today and she ran great, but we noticed water slightly spraying/misting on the stern seat while on plane. Is this normal? My wife and sister-in-law had to move to the seat behind the helm.

Yes, the ladder was up. There was light wind and little to no waves.
 
HawkX66 said:
I don't think there should be any standing water outside of the sump box.
Click to expand...
Agree... There should be no water outside the shower sump box. My 05 300 DA has been dry outside the shower sump box once I figured out that the pump inside the box had a sticky float switch, and also that the pump was getting airlock and periodically running all the time after a ride. Replaced the float switch, and mounted the replacement on two plastic toilet shims to raise the float switch up a bit. The airlock issue was caused by the pump sucking air after draining. Raising the float switch up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch allowed a little more water to stay in the sump after the float shut the pump off. No more air suckage. Just annoyed it took me 8 seasons to figure out the stupid-simple answer.

Also, quick note. If you get airlocked, the water will overflow the box even with the lid screwed on. We ended up leaving the screws out because we were fiddling with the airlocked pump so often. No issues anymore.

Lastly, aside from the shower, your Air Conditioner condensate goes into the shower sump as a standard. If your boat was originally built for a 100% no overboard dumping lake like mine was, all the sinks went to the shower sump as well, and then would get pumped to the waste tank. Since I'm on the Chesapeake now, I had that waste tank connection diverted through a new through hull next to the tank. So now all my sinks and shower go to the sump box which pumps out the gray water over the side. Waste tank still gets anything that goes through the toilet. The new through hull was the cheapest and least invasive solution instead of moving cabinets, and fridges trying to re-plumb everything to their original through hulls.
 
Phil S said:
After heavy rain for 24 hours, I went to check inside the boat for leaks and one of the stb portlights was not closing all the way. The Bomar gaskets are old and compressed, so I ordered new ones. The bottom/middle dog latch doesn't even come close to tight, but I tightened that for now and the water stopped. There was water all along that top shelf and running aft along the shelf above the settee cabinets, then down behind where the AC vent is. A day later I came back later at night, and luckily my kids had left the aft cabin lights on because when I turned on the breakers, there was the dreaded standing water on the carpet (up against where the freshwater tank is). I shop vac'd it out, and as far as I can tell it's not saltwater. Just wondering: could this standing water all be from rainwater getting in through the window and running down to the lowest point? The boat was wrapped all winter and this is the first real rain we've had. The boat has been out twice this season.
Click to expand...


I had water end up in that area when the caulking at the bottom of the windshield started to break up and come out in chunks. We used a plastic caulking remover tool to dig out as much as we could, and replaced the seal with BoatLife LifeSeal in white. Also dug out around the two "sky lights" in the deck above the galley and couch. DONT completely unbed those per SR dealer guidance. We dug that out from the surface until we got to solid caulk (1/4 inch down or so), then re-sealed with Life Seal. Has been dry since then.

Have heard similar issues arise from the port light seals and loose dogs too!
 
JimFromMD said:
Agree... There should be no water outside the shower sump box. My 05 300 DA has been dry outside the shower sump box once I figured out that the pump inside the box had a sticky float switch, and also that the pump was getting airlock and periodically running all the time after a ride. Replaced the float switch, and mounted the replacement on two plastic toilet shims to raise the float switch up a bit. The airlock issue was caused by the pump sucking air after draining. Raising the float switch up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch allowed a little more water to stay in the sump after the float shut the pump off. No more air suckage. Just annoyed it took me 8 seasons to figure out the stupid-simple answer.

Also, quick note. If you get airlocked, the water will overflow the box even with the lid screwed on. We ended up leaving the screws out because we were fiddling with the airlocked pump so often. No issues anymore.

Lastly, aside from the shower, your Air Conditioner condensate goes into the shower sump as a standard. If your boat was originally built for a 100% no overboard dumping lake like mine was, all the sinks went to the shower sump as well, and then would get pumped to the waste tank. Since I'm on the Chesapeake now, I had that waste tank connection diverted through a new through hull next to the tank. So now all my sinks and shower go to the sump box which pumps out the gray water over the side. Waste tank still gets anything that goes through the toilet. The new through hull was the cheapest and least invasive solution instead of moving cabinets, and fridges trying to re-plumb everything to their original through hulls.
Click to expand...

Hi Jim, thanks for that reply. I checked again this weekend and all three sinks empty into the manifold and then go right out the thru-hull.

I cleaned out the sump filter/screen and tested the sump pump by dumping water directly into the box, and dumping water into the shower drain, and the pump worked by pumping water out the through hull. I'd say it only pumps until the box is down to half full -- but not sure what is normal?

I haven't had any more water in the sump outside the box, and I made sure it was completely dry so I could watch for more leaks. We are supposedly getting rain tomorrow so that will be a good test.
 
Ok guys. I got the radio working by using all of your advice on checking off items. Thanks.
The next thing I have noticed is having to do with fuel. I filled the both tanks with fuel. I used the boat for 3 days. Cruising slow most of the time or on plane here and there. I then went back and refueled the two tanks. The Starboard tank took 37 gal.
The Port tank took about 5 gal. What gives on that?
Didnt run the generator at all. Twin engine 350's.
20210605_164731.jpg
 
Time Enhancer said:
Ok guys. I got the radio working by using all of your advice on checking off items. Thanks.
The next thing I have noticed is having to do with fuel. I filled the both tanks with fuel. I used the boat for 3 days. Cruising slow most of the time or on plane here and there. I then went back and refueled the two tanks. The Starboard tank took 37 gal.
The Port tank took about 5 gal. What gives on that?
Didnt run the generator at all. Twin engine 350's.
View attachment 106775
Click to expand...
either you didnt fill one of the tanks completely when you started or one is not completely full now (more likely as 5gals is not much use at all) - no way for that un-even of fuel burn - there is no fuel selection or crossover on this model - make sure both tanks are completely full (do NOT trust the guages as the royce senders are crap) and try again
 
Ididntdoit said:
either you didnt fill one of the tanks completely when you started or one is not completely full now (more likely as 5gals is not much use at all) - no way for that un-even of fuel burn - there is no fuel selection or crossover on this model - make sure both tanks are completely full (do NOT trust the guages as the royce senders are crap) and try again
Click to expand...
Fill them till fuel runs out the fill ??
 
Time Enhancer said:
Fill them till fuel runs out the fill ??
Click to expand...

You might have to if the pump shuts off too early. Keep a towel/rag handy! Ever gone to fill up your car and it clicks off but you know she'll take more?

BTW, love the blue hull and teak on the swim platform!

Have you given her a name yet ???
 
Phil S said:
You might have to if the pump shuts off too early. Keep a towel/rag handy! Ever gone to fill up your car and it clicks off but you know she'll take more?

BTW, love the blue hull and teak on the swim platform!

Have you given her a name yet ???
Click to expand...
Yes.
Time Enhancer is her name. Not on it yet.
 
Ididntdoit said:
Listen as you fill the tank - the tone will make a very obvious change when fuel starts up the fill hose.....that when you know its full
Click to expand...

This is how I do it too. Sounds similar to if you put a soda bottle under the faucet and you can hear the pitch change higher and higher as it approaches full and comes up the neck. Same thing is happening with the tank and the hose from the transom.

Time Enhancer said:
Fill them till fuel runs out the fill ??
Click to expand...


Not sure what year your 300 is, but if you have the smart craft gauges with digital read out, you can zero out the fuel used on the port and starboard gauges every time you tank up. Then you can see (approximately) how much fuel you burn. This is a good guess as to how much you'll need in each tank when you hit the fuel dock. For me it can be plus/- a few gallons each time depending on how full I got it the last time. This is when the listening to the fuel fill port as you get close to your target number. Obviously you'll have to account for any generator time as that isn't caught by the smart craft. If you have a Kohler 5E or ECD, they aren't super fuel hungry. Less than a gallon per hour of run time fully loaded down, and less than that if just powering a few things. You can google the owners manual for that and see the burn rates.

--Edit-- Duh you have an 05. Let me know if you want help on zeroing out port and starboard fuel burn readings on your two gauges. Same model as me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,285
Messages
1,430,045
Members
61,153
Latest member
sdaves94
Back
Top