40 sedan bridge forum

truk911 said:
Thanks again Bill. Found the previous post with the link to roller replacements. I’ve placed an order for them. Does the bottom of the door come off to replace the rollers? It looks like it is welded on, but maybe it will be clearer once I pull out the door.

One final questions...how does the screen door come out? Do I have to remove the stainless steel threshold? Any sources to buy a new one?
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Take the two bottom end screws out (one on each end). They go through the frame into the side of the roller. Then tap the bottom frame piece off with a hammer to a piece of wood against the top edge of the frame rail. Then take the screw out of the top of the roller that holds it to the rail. I had to drill those out and replace them with new screws. Can’t help you with the screen. I’ve never had one.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/40-sedan-bridge-forum.53961/page-274#post-1209876
 
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I am looking to replace my bridge carpet on my 2000 Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge and am having trouble finding a Company online with a template does anyone know of a Company that may have the template
 
my3sons said:
Scoop, this is what your looking for. I didn’t post because I thought maybe they are in different places on different boats, but if Bill’s is at the aft end of the tank also, it’s a good bet yours is too.
View attachment 102680
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Found it. But that sucker will not turn in either direction. I used pliers and got it to turn. Really, really already had enough of “stuck” things for the season...

interestingly, as I removed the top to the gen Racor, diesel did seem to be flowing at a small stream anyway. I know the Racor is full to the top so I had a pan to catch it. But through the whole process of getting the old filter out (couldn’t get a handle on it!) the fuel keep streaming. Perhaps I should have turned off the valve and run the generator a bit to lower the level and pressure in the lines? No worries. No mess that I couldn’t clean up and no fish were harmed in the process. Plus, my aft bilge is now quite clean! Lol
 
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My gen racor is mounted quite high so I don't experience any flow, even if I don't close the valve unless the tanks are full to the top. I have ball valves on the racor drains and I always drain off a little fuel before taking the top off, that helps. I usually have to add a little fuel to the racor before reinstalling the lid to get the fuel level near the top. Maybe the tank valve wasn't quite closed all the way and a little fuel was passing by.
 
my3sons said:
My gen racor is mounted quite high so I don't experience any flow, even if I don't close the valve unless the tanks are full to the top. I have ball valves on the racor drains and I always drain off a little fuel before taking the top off, that helps. I usually have to add a little fuel to the racor before reinstalling the lid to get the fuel level near the top. Maybe the tank valve wasn't quite closed all the way and a little fuel was passing by.
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My Racor is quite high, too. That’s what made getting the old filter out so difficult. And I have the drain screws at the bottoms, too. I found that if I opened them and let the fuel drain there into a pan, I could stay ahead of the flow. I lost less than 1/4 gallon so it wasn’t gushing. And on the positive side, I didn’t have to top off the Racor when I finished! Lol.
 
So the tale of the sea strainer is complete. In Man vs Machine, machine won. I had to buy and install a new strainer. I took the old one home and went to town on the lid with a hammer. I lost the war but I won this battle. Take a look. I beat on the ears, could turn it almost a revolution, then I had to hit it again. Repeated numerous times before the lid finally came off. Oddly, the threads look ok. But I have no idea what that copper colored material is all over the threads. Some sort of sealant, I assume? Must be because there was no top O-ring in there. I didn’t do this. I rebuilt the other strainer this year the right way, with the O ring kit. Right here is a good reason you do as much work as you can, yourself. Saving the 2” NPT adapters, plastic glass and other parts for spares.
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truk911 said:
Thanks again Bill. Found the previous post with the link to roller replacements. I’ve placed an order for them. Does the bottom of the door come off to replace the rollers? It looks like it is welded on, but maybe it will be clearer once I pull out the door.

One final questions...how does the screen door come out? Do I have to remove the stainless steel threshold? Any sources to buy a new one?
Click to expand...

Hey Kurt (post 5580), my boat didn't come with a screen door at all. So I had to order one, just from measurements. I ordered from online. A few years ago, but was something like:

https://www.fixingscreens.com/build-a-screen-door.html

A bit of a houdini experience putting it together, and installing, and my vertical measurements might have been 1/8-1/4" long but it works! I might recommend taking the kit to a screen shop to have them put the screen material in.

Hope this helps.

Dave
 
Please help, I am in dire need of windshield gasket for our 97 SR 400 SB. I sent pics of the gasket to Ocean Dynamics and they were unable to help. Anyone know who may carry the windshield gasket?
 
torobcheh said:
Please help, I am in dire need of windshield gasket for our 97 SR 400 SB. I sent pics of the gasket to Ocean Dynamics and they were unable to help. Anyone know who may carry the windshield gasket?
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What are you trying to accomplish? If it’s the cosmetic rubber trim piece around the windshields, it’s made by Taylor Made. And it’s not a sealing gasket. It’s cosmetic only. If it’s a water seal you want you need to remove that cosmetic gasket and re-bed the glass to the frame with a sealant. There’s a discussion on how to do this repair earlier in this thread. Matt (TotallyGross) just did his recently. I learned from him how work it is and paid to have mine done professionally.

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scooper321 said:
What are you trying to accomplish? If it’s the cosmetic rubber trim piece around the windshields, it’s made by Taylor Made. And it’s not a sealing gasket. It’s cosmetic only. If it’s a water seal you want you need to remove that cosmetic gasket and re-bed the glass to the frame with a sealant. There’s a discussion on how to do this repair earlier in this thread. Matt (TotallyGross) just did his recently. I learned from him how work it is and paid to have mine done professionally.

View attachment 104054View attachment 104055 View attachment 104053
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Hi, need to have one reset because of water leakage and all the trim pieces removed. Called Taylor made they told me to call Ocean Dynamics where they couldn't help, contacted Centerpointe Yachts and no luck . Yours looks beautiful. I didn't know the trim was cosmetic only. Our trim pieces are all dry rotted.
 
Thank you Just called Taylor made and they have the part no you have on the invoice. $875 for a 250 ft spool. I like to have all the trim gaskets replaced, is the 250 ft spool too much or adequate?
 
Nepenthe said:
Based on previous posts, I believe 55' is adequate for the job.
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That is correct. I ordered 55 feet and ended up having a fair amount left over. Almost enough to do the center windshield again.But other folks on this group that have done the work themselves said 55 feet was the right amount.

But again, this is not going to be a water seal. You need to remove this and re-seal the glass to the frame behind it. That was outside both my skill set and my patience, which is why I had someone do it for me.
 
Hi Everyone, Did a search but couldnt find anything related. Looking for feedback on the "A" Floor plan with the 3 bedrooms down and galley up configuration. I believe this was a more European option but one is forsale locally with Cummins and Hydraulic Platform. Any with this model that has some insight on how the layout is.
 
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