40 sedan bridge forum

Bartlett Bob said:
Thanks for the reply, I looked back through ER pictures to see if I had accidentally got the elbow in a shot with something else but did not. I will need to go over to the boat when I get time and get a shot of it.
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Hey Bob, i had a similar problem a few years ago on my 3116's. I had new exhaust elbows fabricated an installed as I was told that the shallow elbow I had wasn't steep enough to prevent backflow. You'll likely find in this process that the 3116 turbos have been discontinued but there are rebuild kits. I had both rebuilt and the performance was poor so I eventually opted for new turbos (which are the 3126's) with an adapter kit. This may not be exactly what is going on with your boat but I thought I'd share. Happy to send a few pics as well
 
I have the 450 Cummins Diesels.
I replaced the Starboard impeller yesterday. Any tips on getting the impeller in and the keyway aligned on the port side engine?
I am dreading this one.
I can get the old one pulled out because I do have bolt to back it out like I did on the Starboard
I have the aftercoolers off and can likely get my arm in there but seeing is tough. Reaching is tough and I have no idea how I will get the new one in and spun to align the keyway.
 
TotallyGross said:
I have the 450 Cummins Diesels.
I replaced the Starboard impeller yesterday. Any tips on getting the impeller in and the keyway aligned on the port side engine?
I am dreading this one.
I can get the old one pulled out because I do have bolt to back it out like I did on the Starboard
I have the aftercoolers off and can likely get my arm in there but seeing is tough. Reaching is tough and I have no idea how I will get the new one in and spun to align the keyway.
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I do it frequently with aftercooler on. Remove air pipe between aftercooler and engine intake. Push throttle arm all the way forward. Lay on engine and reach right arm through that gap. You will have to do it all with one hand but just leave bottom impeller cover bolt loose so cover swings out of way but doesn’t detach. Grease up new impeller real good so that it slides in easy. I just squeeze blades with my hand and rotate it until all blades get inside the housing. Then I push it about half way in. Then I rotate to line up key. Then I put key in and shove it in the rest of the way.

I’m 5’ 10” with average length arms.
 
ZZ13 said:
I do it frequently with aftercooler on. Remove air pipe between aftercooler and engine intake. Push throttle arm all the way forward. Lay on engine and reach right arm through that gap. You will have to do it all with one hand but just leave bottom impeller cover bolt loose so cover swings out of way but doesn’t detach. Grease up new impeller real good so that it slides in easy. I just squeeze blades with my hand and rotate it until all blades get inside the housing. Then I push it about half way in. Then I rotate to line up key. Then I put key in and shove it in the rest of the way.

I’m 5’ 10” with average length arms.
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Excellent advice. Thank you. How do you line up the key and the impeller without seeing it?
I am afraid I'll drop it and be fishing around..
 
TotallyGross said:
Excellent advice. Thank you. How do you line up the key and the impeller without seeing it?
I am afraid I'll drop it and be fishing around..
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I can see it. If you can’t just use a small screwdriver or nail to line it up. If you drop anything it should fall inside the outer stringer and roll down to inside stringer. You shouldn’t have any problem retrieving. Also new impeller should come with a new key. So you will have two. Make sure not to drop the key into the pump while you are removing impeller. That will fall into intake hose and you will have to remove the hose to get it out. Ask me how I know.
 
TotallyGross said:
I have the 450 Cummins Diesels.
I replaced the Starboard impeller yesterday. Any tips on getting the impeller in and the keyway aligned on the port side engine?
I am dreading this one.
I can get the old one pulled out because I do have bolt to back it out like I did on the Starboard
I have the aftercoolers off and can likely get my arm in there but seeing is tough. Reaching is tough and I have no idea how I will get the new one in and spun to align the keyway.
Click to expand...
Different boat but i think the clearance is the same. I did mine last season while the aftercooler was off. Don't think i could have done it if it wasn't. I laid on top of the motor and did most of it with my left hand. This season I'm going to try to reach around the front of the motor with a mirror. Best case scenario is if the key way is located at 12 o'clock. If not you could try bumping the start button to move it up.
 
Tachometers - Have been "sticky" for some time. Meaning somewhat erratic and requiring a knock to wake them up. It only lasts a short time before one wanders. Now I don't believe either one. I've cleaned the connections and tightened them with no luck. So 2 questions for the forum:
1. Thinking I have to replace the Tachs. Before I do, any ideas for addressing the issue. How likely is it something downstream of the tachs - sender?
2. Thinking of also adding a secondary digital tach tied into an MFD. I've seen posts about digitizing the tachs but do not want to mess with the original set up. I noted the Glendinning sychronizer may have output ports for sending units. Since it uses mechanical input and the tachs use an electric sender, I was thinking I could put senders on it to drive some digital tachs. Anyone done this? Or used those ports?
 
THe tachs are driven by a flywheel tooth counter on the bellhousing. There is always the possibility that the sender (tooth counter) can fail, but your discription of the symptoms sound like the tachs are the issue. Most here seem to choose the Aetna Digital Tachs when our originals crap out, and the 400DB's dash cutouts are close enough that the Aetna's will fit without having to make a new dash panel or fabricating an insert. They are plug and play, just look up the pulse settings for your motor in the aetna manual and set the switches and install. I am not familiar with the synchronizer or how you could use it to drive the tachs.
Aetna Engineering Products | Aetna Engineering

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I have the same Aetna tachs Mark showed in his post. As an analog gauge fan I was apprehensive about switching out the cool looking factory tachs until I calibrated those tachs and found out how inaccurate they were. My port tach read 100 rpm too low at cruise. So when I thought I was cruising at 2200rpm I was really going over 2300 rpm. Not good for the engines. The Aetna tachs being digital are spot on accurate. That alone makes it a good idea to switch to them.
 
The tachs in my 320 behaved exactly as you said. Gas boat, but that doesn’t matter when it comes to the gauges. Same exactly issue. Reading off h til you tapped on it. On my 400 they don’t get sticky like that. But they don’t read the same. And they are off. I had my tachs calibrated last season. One read 50 high, the other 100. Fortunately, since I hadn’t calibrated them previously, I wispy cruise around 2100-2150 (which proved to be spot on!). Those Aetnas look nice. But we got new flooring in the Salon this off season so no electronics updates for a while!
 
my3sons said:
THe tachs are driven by a flywheel tooth counter on the bellhousing. There is always the possibility that the sender (tooth counter) can fail, but your discription of the symptoms sound like the tachs are the issue. Most here seem to choose the Aetna Digital Tachs when our originals crap out, and the 400DB's dash cutouts are close enough that the Aetna's will fit without having to make a new dash panel or fabricating an insert. They are plug and play, just look up the pulse settings for your motor in the aetna manual and set the switches and install. I am not familiar with the synchronizer or how you could use it to drive the tachs.
Aetna Engineering Products | Aetna Engineering

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Thanks, those look really clean and non intrusive. I may go down that route. I'm planning out an electronic upgrade I thought I may be able to integrate with it while maintaining the look and feel of the originals. And thanks for the link. They have some cool products.
 
scooper321 said:
The tachs in my 320 behaved exactly as you said. Gas boat, but that doesn’t matter when it comes to the gauges. Same exactly issue. Reading off h til you tapped on it. On my 400 they don’t get sticky like that. But they don’t read the same. And they are off. I had my tachs calibrated last season. One read 50 high, the other 100. Fortunately, since I hadn’t calibrated them previously, I wispy cruise around 2100-2150 (which proved to be spot on!). Those Aetnas look nice. But we got new flooring in the Salon this off season so no electronics updates for a while!
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I've found the tach's accuracy is important with the diesels. It seems many measure engine/prop health on its ability to reach a prescribed RPM at full load (2800 in CAT case) and that cruise needs to be about 400 rpm below that. Hard to tell anything if you can't trust the tach...However, now if I don't like the number I'm getting from the tach I just knock on it until it gives me the number I want to see...
 
ZZ13 said:
I can see it. If you can’t just use a small screwdriver or nail to line it up. If you drop anything it should fall inside the outer stringer and roll down to inside stringer. You shouldn’t have any problem retrieving. Also new impeller should come with a new key. So you will have two. Make sure not to drop the key into the pump while you are removing impeller. That will fall into intake hose and you will have to remove the hose to get it out. Ask me how I know.
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DAMMIT. Guess who is removing the hose to find the key on his day off! I felt the key and on the way out it bumped the side of the housing and went in of course.
Great advice on removing the hose. My chubby belly and 5’10” body also was barely able to do it.
 
TotallyGross said:
DAMMIT. Guess who is removing the hose to find the key on his day off! I felt the key and on the way out it bumped the side of the housing and went in of course.
Great advice on removing the hose. My chubby belly and 5’10” body also was barely able to do it.
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Works that way on the CATs too. I dropped the key in the hose on both engines even after learning my lesson on the first one...mechanic buddy told me he bumps the starter until the keyway is on top so gravity holds it in place. A few trips up and down from the helm but it beat removing the hose.
 
my3sons said:
THe tachs are driven by a flywheel tooth counter on the bellhousing. There is always the possibility that the sender (tooth counter) can fail, but your discription of the symptoms sound like the tachs are the issue. Most here seem to choose the Aetna Digital Tachs when our originals crap out, and the 400DB's dash cutouts are close enough that the Aetna's will fit without having to make a new dash panel or fabricating an insert. They are plug and play, just look up the pulse settings for your motor in the aetna manual and set the switches and install. I am not familiar with the synchronizer or how you could use it to drive the tachs.
Aetna Engineering Products | Aetna Engineering

View attachment 101459
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Are you able to put the correct engine hours on the new Tachs?
 
Johnny Utah said:
Are you able to put the correct engine hours on the new Tachs?
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I didn't call Aetna to ask them if I bought from them, could they and would they do it.
I saved the old tachs and it's documented in the service log. Any new buyer would get both.
I started over on service items like now my filters have 200 hours written on them instead of 2350. Just easier to do.
 
The boats in the yard getting bottom paint, propspeed coating, and a good compound, polish and wax. It also had new Shaft Seals from Tidesmarine (one of which had disintegrated internally), and new Cutlass Bearings. Just have to install new vinyl on the bootstrip and the we go back in the water on Friday.

I ordered today the window cosmetic rubber trim for the side windows. In case anyone is interested, I got it directly from Taylor made Solutions, part # 8319400 @ 3.20 a foot. (519) 773 0636.

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Tom Coombs said:
The boats in the yard getting bottom paint, propspeed coating, and a good compound, polish and wax. It also had new Shaft Seals from Tidesmarine (one of which had disintegrated internally), and new Cutlass Bearings. Just have to install new vinyl on the bootstrip and the we go back in the water on Friday.

I ordered today the window cosmetic rubber trim for the side windows. In case anyone is interested, I got it directly from Taylor made Solutions, part # 8319400 @ 3.20 a foot. (519) 773 0636.

View attachment 101867 View attachment 101869 View attachment 101870View attachment 101867 View attachment 101869 View attachment 101870
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Was there a secret to installing the new window trim? This has been an ongoing struggle for me.
 
Tom Coombs said:
not sure yet...when I get it and install it, I’ll let you know how I did it.
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Super easy. Just pull the old stuff out of the channel and push the new stuff into the channel. It’ll be obvious. I “glue” the corners together with a bead of black caulk over the top of the joint. I used OSI Quad from hardware store. It lasts forever outdoors.
 
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