Official 240 Sundancer Thread

whaler14 said:

I do not own a sea ray 24 at this time, but iam in the market for a new 2007 or 2008 model. I will be cruising the ICW. Majority of the time I will overnighting at anchor. I will be using the stock a/c unit, powered by a Honda generator, 2000 series. The salesman told me that would work, but it would only power the a/c only. The generator would be placed on the swim platform overnight. My question is has anyone done this with a small generator and does it function properly.

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It should work fine (although not considered safe) it will also keep the fridge running too. If you put it in "econo" mode it will run for about 8 hrs. running both the A/C and fridge before running out of fuel. Make sure you turn off the power converter on the main panel when using the gen.

I would personally recommend getting a factory installed marine gen. if you are going to be using it all the time. The money spent up front will be well worth it in the long run.

If you like, you can buy my boat, its a 2007 240DA with 3kw Westerbeke genny. ;-)

whaler14 said:

I do not own a sea ray 24 at this time, but iam in the market for a new 2007 or 2008 model. I will be cruising the ICW. Majority of the time I will overnighting at anchor. I will be using the stock a/c unit, powered by a Honda generator, 2000 series. The salesman told me that would work, but it would only power the a/c only. The generator would be placed on the swim platform overnight. My question is has anyone done this with a small generator and does it function properly.

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It works prefect with a Honda 2000k, which is what I have. It even runs the battery charger as well as the A/C. Heck, it even powers a 20" LCD Panel with DVD player! It will power the Microwave as well, if you turn off the A/C while using it !!!

whaler14 said:

has anyone used a portable generator to power up and use the a/c on a 240 sundance?

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Hi!

I use the EU 20i for long time on my 240DA. I have made little modifications, so the Gen can stay permanent in the engine room.

All works well. I stayed last summer for 5 weeks only on anchor.

Oh boy....I can see at least eight reasons why that's a disaster waiting to happen from just those 2 pics...not the least of which is that "permenant" hold down thingy that looks like it came off of a third graders' Barney back pack.
Well, good luck with that...

Hi!

Installation
The honda is standing in 4 roundes deepenings on a extra plate, mounted in the starboard side of the engine room. A tension belt tighten the generator with his spring-loaded feets verry good. Ok, my tension belt is to long and i don't cut the loose end. Is only a problem for your eyes.

Exhaust-system
I was asked for the exhaust-system!
There ist first the original flexible exhaust tube from Honda. At the end i used a isolated exhaustpipe from Webasto.

The heat isolation from the exhaust tube is done by special "rock wool tube" from webasto or other car heater producers. The specification from this tube needs only a safty distance from 5cm (2 inch).

Cooling
Second the Honda is air cooled. If the honda runs in the engine room, you will get in shorts time very high air temperature inside. Because this problem, Honda needs a special air exhaust (the 2 big black tubes). The heated air from the cylinder cooling goes via the 2 tubes out of the boat. So the honda allways sucks fresh air from the bottom and blow it out through the 2 tubes. I have tryed more then 2 our with no problem in increasing air temperure in closed engine room.
For cooling it is not a good idea, to run main engine und honda at the same time.

Danger of explosion
I have disabled the own tank of honda an cleaned with fresh water. No gas are inside the tank.
The Honda has a little mechanical fuel pump. So you can go directly with a fuel tube to the second, normally unused borrow bit of your main fuel tank.
The honda self is explosion-proof. So its the same danger of explosion, if you start your honda or your V8.

Electricity
You need a switch between boat (110V or 220V) and shore power. This switch choose the incomming energy, either from shore or from honda. So it is impossible, that 2 sources at same time comes to the 110V boat net. Also is secured, no electricity can go from honda to the shore net.

After the switch you need for the board net a residual current circuit-breaker.
Very nice is a good battery charger with an integrated inverter (12V -> 110V) with intelligent electronic (like this). So i can mix external power (shore or generator) with energy from batteries. Is a realy good feature for starting problems with 110V devices with high starting current. So the generator never will be overstressed.

Hello all. Just picked up a SD 240, 1999 with the 5.0 and alpha one. I am still a bit concerned about the power but the weight is only 4300 lbs. Any info some of you could share would be great. Normally, there will be 4 to 6 adults (or just me and the wife). What should I expect?

isitsummeryet said:

Hello all. Just picked up a SD 240, 1999 with the 5.0 and alpha one. I am still a bit concerned about the power but the weight is only 4300 lbs. Any info some of you could share would be great. Normally, there will be 4 to 6 adults (or just me and the wife). What should I expect?

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Welcome aboard. I read your other thread you started. "Presentation" gave a good "sum-it-up" about the boat. I'm on my 3rd year with my boat. From the start, I felt it was under-powered with the 5.0. My boat weighs 5400lbs. But, after doing some tests of my own and using the "Prop Selector" http://appcenter.mercurymarine.com/propSelector/home.do
I went from the OEM 21" pitch prop to a 17". Big difference! I'm on plane in 6 sec. w/ full load people and coolers. I lost top end, but I don't care about that. Getting on plane was more important to me. Check with local marinas. In our area, you can rent props and try them out to see what works best for your boat.
Good luck and enjoy your new ride!

Thanks for the info Shining. It sounds like i'll be ok for a couple year. I am sure weighing less will help and that prop change could be a possibility if I don't like the OEM. Any info anyone else has would be great. thanks again

Looking to run wires from the helm station to the radio in the cabin.

is there an easy way to the wires all the way there that does not involve disassembly of the whole cabin. any input would be appreaciated.

thanks.

You won't have to take the whole cabin apart... just a few in the midberth and 1 above the midberth entry.

Regarding the use of trim tabs

I have had the same experience and try not to use them unless I really really need them. Then I am always tweaking. Luckily, the wife understands as the boat suddenly leans precariously while I am quickly fidigiting with the trim tab controls.

Hey guys! Not a 240 owner yet but...

Is this a good (great) deal?

2007 240 Sundancer NEW Built Aug 2007 with 5.0L Engine, Bimini Camper Canvas PKG, Flagpole, Pump Out Head, Wet Bar, Cockpit Table, Carpet Liner, Fire Suppression, AC, Bottom Paint, Black Hull, Butane Stove, Cockpit cover delivered to lake slip:

$53K

Sounds like it could be an awesome deal but spend a few extra hundred bucks and get a marine surveyor to check it out. Especially if you are buying it from a dealer as a brokered deal. What are the 240's going for new $80k+? Best wishes wth it.

dsteele1 said:

Hey guys! Not a 240 owner yet but...

Is this a good (great) deal?

2007 240 Sundancer NEW Built Aug 2007 with 5.0L Engine, Bimini Camper Canvas PKG, Flagpole, Pump Out Head, Wet Bar, Cockpit Table, Carpet Liner, Fire Suppression, AC, Bottom Paint, Black Hull, Butane Stove, Cockpit cover delivered to lake slip:

$53K

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I bought my 240 this year as a 07 close out. I too wanted AC added but the estimate was $3500, a buddy of mine with a 26' cruiser told me he uses a portable non-condensating unit he bought at Walmart and sets it in the foreward galley and sleeps in the aft and is frozen by midnight. I also found this thing
http://www.amcorgroupusa.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD_STATIC&Store_Code=AMCOR&Category_Code=APC
and thought I might try it. Good luck I will post some pics of my TV/DVD mods this weak it is pretty darn cool. Kurt

1000btu? Considering the standard unit on a 240DA is 7000btu I'd say that thing it useless.

Do you really think you need 7000btu for less than at best 100 square foot. I am just looking at other options since in Missouri you really only need AC for about 5-weekend nights a season otherwise the lake is pretty cool at night.

Kurt said:

Do you really think you need 7000btu for less than at best 100 square foot. I am just looking at other options since in Missouri you really only need AC for about 5-weekend nights a season otherwise the lake is pretty cool at night.

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You need to take into consideration cubic footage; My assumption is that you could hang meat in the cabin with a 7K unit. I'm getting ready to install a 5K system, but do have some concerns that it won't be quite enough during the hottest parts of the summer out here. I'd be happy to provide you with info on my a/c solution if you would like. Have you taken a look at the portable hatch-mount Cruiseair units?

Best,
Chris

Just an information offering....
We installed a 6500 BTU unit in our 240. During a hot August day, it will run almost continuously to keep the cabin @ 75 degrees. At night, different deal. We will dial it down to 70 and it might run briefly three times an hour. FYI.

Cheers,

Jim

NoWakey said:

Just an information offering....
We installed a 6500 BTU unit in our 240. During a hot August day, it will run almost continuously to keep the cabin @ 75 degrees. At night, different deal. We will dial it down to 70 and it might run briefly three times an hour. FYI.

Cheers,

Jim

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Yup, that's why 7000BTU is the correct unit. These units are sized for the highest heat load scenario. 5000BTU will keep things comfortable at night but fall well short during those dog days. Why not just do it right?