Check for 12v power at the location where the cables connect to the motor. My guess is that for some reason 12v is not getting there. Can you trace the cable from helm to bow?

Esteban

 

If you do have 12V power at the motor with the switch on and someone trying to engage it (pushing the up/down button), then maybe you got what I got. While pushing the buttons, take an insulated tool and jiggle the connecting poles at the motor.

I had one break off clean inside the motor. A second one broke during repair at the alternator shop. Jiggling them may help you make temporary contact and assess the problem.

The alternator shop charged $75 to replace both, clean it up, and put it back together. (I did the install back at the boat.)

 

In the process of switching out motors, I reassured that the connections were good. I have not tried to trace the wire.

 

On our 260DA, there is a relay (the "Windlass Latching Solenoid", I believe it's in the anchor locker) that controls the 12v to the motor. When ours failed we had symptoms similar to yours. Unfortunately I did not do the repair so I can't be too much help in locating and testing the relay. The wiring diagram in the 280 manual isn't much help with the location, but it can give you an idea what the solenoid looks like:

http://www.searay.com/Archives_Manu...rchives_Manuals/Sea_Ray_Archives/owners_manuals/280_Sundancer/280_Sundancer.pdf

The diagram is on page 66.

Good luck..hope this helps!
Jeff

 

I have had my 280DA now for five months and still do not have an opertaing windlass.

I pulled the motor out and had it bench tested and no problem there. I even went as far as purchasing a new motor but they, Lorans, replaced my model with an updated version and the wiring schematics were not the same. So, I put the old motor back in and hooked everyting up and nothing.

When I push the windlass button on the helm I can hear a clicking noise in the engine comp. The breakers are fine, I am aware of two, are there more?

Has anyone had this problem? Thanks in advance for the help.

find where click comes from and there is your solenoid
first tap it with hammer handle or something similar (not to hard or plastic will crack) if no go than need to be replaced

 

Is the little arm bent or the bolt that holds the little spring arm bent? Thats what it sounds like and it will keep the windlass from operating and you will get the click - like you mentioned. If so not a hard fix.

 

OK. I tinkered with it a bit last night and narrowed the noise down to the solenoid. I gave it a good smack :smt021 and checked the fuses and still nothing. I guess I will replace the solenoid and see if that's the answer.

Thanks for all the help.

 

OK. I tinkered with it a bit last night and narrowed the noise down to the solenoid. I gave it a good smack :smt021 and checked the fuses and still nothing. I guess I will replace the solenoid and see if that's the answer.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Anyone know how to the get the part # or know the part # for the solenoid?

 

Lucky, what is the condition of your batteries? If you are still on the original batteries, that may be the source of your problems with the windlass.

I would try connecting the windlass circuit to a fresh battery - just take it down into the bilge and switch the terminals.

 

Gerry, all batteries were replaced when I purchased the boat int he spring, they are in good shape.

 

OK. I tinkered with it a bit last night and narrowed the noise down to the solenoid. I gave it a good smack :smt021 and checked the fuses and still nothing. I guess I will replace the solenoid and see if that's the answer.

Thanks for all the help.

the way how systems is usually built is:
big breaker (60-100A) in bilge and relay in bilge (there can be 1 or 2 car style fuses on that relay)
there usually is another relay in rope locker (this one is for changing rotation of the motor)
If you have separate windlass power switch it should activate relay in bilge (one heavy cable on that relay should have "+" always on and other side should get "+" after relay is activated (small fuse/fuses are for power switch and indicator light)
if there is power after relay is activated you need to check relay module in rope locker (that relay will change rotation of windlass motor)
depends on windlass motor being used there can be 2 or 3 wires coming to motor
on 2 wires polarity being change to spin motor to other way
on 3 wires motor: one "+" and "-" being used to spin motor one way and second "+" and common "-" negative is being used to spin other way
on top of relay box should be 3 "skinny" wires and few heavy ones
check if you have "+" present on heavy duty cable on top of relay box and "-" on motor - with 2 wire motor and windlass power switch on
on 3 wire motor there should be "+" and"-" presented on top of relay box when windlass power switch is on
if there is no "+" positive present the relay in bilge is damaged
no "-" -looks like loose ground wire
if everything looks good use small jumper wire and jump CENTER post where "skinny" wire is connected with only ONE side posts
remember to jump only one side at same time - those are controlling motor rotation and jumper wire let you bypass control on dash
that way you can eliminate if relay box in rope locker is not working

some older boats with small windlass didn't have relays at all, only breaker and switches
all power was going trough up/down switch and they used to fail very often
some newer boats don't have big relay in bilge, only breaker and small relay (build inside interface box) which connects power to up/down control, "+" is always presented in rope locker on heavy duty connector on top of relay box (and foot switches) when main battery switches are on

 

Today I noticed that the 40a breaker that's located in the engine comp next to the solenoid was tripped. I corrected the problem and now I have power to the helm controls. When attempting to operate the windlass with the up/down buttons it now makes a clicking noise in the anchor comp and then the break trips again. Remind you that the boat is on a trailer with no shore power and engines off. The batts mat not be producing enough voltage to operate.

I could try plugging the boat in to se if that would produce enough :huh:

 

Today I noticed that the 40a breaker that's located in the engine comp next to the solenoid was tripped. I corrected the problem and now I have power to the helm controls. When attempting to operate the windlass with the up/down buttons it now makes a clicking noise in the anchor comp and then the break trips again. Remind you that the boat is on a trailer with no shore power and engines off. The batts mat not be producing enough voltage to operate.

I could try plugging the boat in to se if that would produce enough :huh:

yep charge your batteries first and check if will continue to trip breaker
if keeps blowing breaker try to manually spin motor - 1/4 turn should be enough
if there is no improvement I will try bigger or at least new breaker - maybe old one is "tired"?
also check all connections on batteries, breakers, relays etc
do you have relays in bilge and rope locker?

 

Alright, after tinkering with the system last night and narrowing the porblem down to the circuit breaker I contacted Lofrans today and it seems as though the 40amp breaker I have is not enough to handle the 42-42amp draw from the windlass. I ordered a 50amp breaker, hopefully this will correct the problem. I'll updateonce the new breaker is in.

 

I have an 04 280. My first week out with it almost turned to be the last. I was ready to sink it as I could not figure out what the heck was wrong with the windlass.To top it off,I was anchored in stuck . After being on the phone with Marine Max guys they finally figured out that there is a relay switch hidden behind the A/C water line in the engine area that expulses the water out. Now what the heck Searay was thinking by putting that back there is beyond me. I checked the solenoid,the fuse boxes everything to no avail. It wasnt till I found that very difficult to find small black box I mentioned above and flipped the switch...ahhh ahhh(angels singin) ....it worked. You may have the same set up, call your local Searay dealer and ask them if it is a possibility,otherwise let me know and I will get you the correct name and "technical" location.
Chris

 

First things first

Nine out of ten times the problem is lack of sufficient current at the windlass. 12V motors are the largest single draw on your boat, the windlass is perhaps the biggest. Long wire cable runs create a lot of resistance, heat and lower voltage. Each cable connection must be very clean and tight.

Then the batteries must be topped up and fully charged, or you must have a charging source running with sufficient capacity to handle the load.

From what you state, you have a good motor. Let's do this.

Assemble tools. neeeded are Voltage meter, set of wrenches, wire brush, emery paper, jumper cables and spare known to be fully charged 12v battery.


With a voltmeter, test the voltage at the windlass, we are looking for 12.8 , if voltage is under 12.2 then check the battery and perhaps replace, but first:

Trace both wire cables from the windlass to the batteries. remove every terminal, clean and re connect and tighen the connection well, apply dielectric grease.

Check the engine ground for the entire electrical system, clean and tighten as indicated, accept no corrosion. Clean, tighten battery lugs, apply grease.

Charge the batteries to the max.

Then try. If the solinoid still clicks away and the motor doesn't start, replace the battery from another boat or car by taking a battery to the windlass and connect it with jumper cables. If it runs great and then work backwards and attach to your solinoid if it runs great, if not your solinoid is defective. If wires you have a break in a cable. To elinate a cable break run continuity checks on the solinoid to windless legs.

When you've closed this loop of diagnostics and it still doesn't run, you have to question the "motor is good" assumption. Armatures can have burns or flat spots caused by dropping voltage under constant load.