It may be time to say goodbye. Is the boat original, or has it been repowered/refurbed? If you've got original, 20 year old gassers it certainly wouldn't make sense to drop $15-$20 grand to pull the tired old motors and put them back in.

It wouldn't make financial sense, but if you REALLY like the boat- and plan on keeping it another 5-10 years- it would pay to do a refurb at the same time. New engines, fuel tanks, etc. which if it doesn't need them now- it will very soon.

Who gave you the figure on the stringer job?
Could very well be in the ballpark if the damage is extensive, but I'd get a second estimate from a reliable yard experienced with these types of repairs.

 

I don't see anywhere that an actual dollar figure is quoted, only a percentage of the boats' remaining value. Perhaps that would be 15-20K, I haven't looked it up.
Sounds like you have to decide if you want to fix the boat, sell her as is for next to nothing, assuming you can find a buyer right now, or have the boat scraped. If you can do some of the work yoursel, like pulling/replacing the engines, then you may be able to lower cost somewhat. If you have to have a yard do everything then I think you will never get your money out of the boat.

 

Thanks for the feedback. The value of the boat is 35 to 40K, the yard is telling me around 15K to replace the stringers and, as usual, they will only do it by the hour. The sad news is that the port engine was replaced in 2007 (long block) and a top end rebuild on the starboard motor. To round off the misery I had the risers and manifolds replaced as well. Not sure how this was not picked up when they pulled the motor. I am not feeling that I want to sink anymore money into her. Will give e-bay a shot, hopefully I can find a fiberglass technician or mechanic that will take it off my hands. I am crying over this one...:smt089

 

Sorry man, this truly sucks. It's this type of stuff that is making me bite the bullet and get a newish boat that is in good shape so I just have to deal with the ridiculous amount of regular maintenance.

 

What can a person do to prevent this type of damage? This is the second post that I have read regarding stringer damage. Hopefully, the newer boats are built in such a way that this is no longer a real concern?

I agree that it sucks that your investment is now on the negative side. I guess you have to weigh the options, if you need to spend 15K to fix it, will that 15K buy you many more years of boating? Or, will the 15K, service as a nice downpayment on a newer boat? Especially considering you repowered the port side last year.

Sorry. I hope you are able to get a decent amount for her, and find a suitable replacement.

 

Dang.

The mechanics who worked on your motors probaby didn't pick up the wet stringers because they weren't looking for it. As you said. . .there was no visible damage - -> and I don't think moisture meters are standard equipment for motor techs.

The only way you could have caught this was to have the surveyor look at the boat BEFORE you had the engines pulled.

Doesn't sound like a whole lot of luck out there this weekend, between the woes here and pakmules woes.

And hey. . . pakmule. . . .your problems don't sound like regular maintenance to me!!

 

Can you just run the thing as is ? Is it unsafe ? ....Maybe get a few more years of enjoyment out of it ?

 

I am hoping that I will avoid the same issue. Bought the boat last year and in the survey the boat checked out perfectly...not wet at all and according to the surveyor he has not seen levels like that in a boat of my vintage. Good news, I guess.

He suggested that in the off season I have the boat barrier coated and painted to avoid any of those issues in the future, which I had done (looks incredible, by the way!!).

I guess my question is, will this no longer be an issue for me to worry about, or is this just giving me a false sense of security? I know that Sea Ray boats manufactured in the '80's and early 90's had issues with moisture, but I feel that the advice I was given is sound.

Any input or advice? Anything to worry about as long as the bilge stays dry?

Thanks in advance for your input!

 

Anything to worry about as long as the bilge stays dry?

You hit the nail on the head- if the bilge is dry, there's no way rot can start in the stringers.
Rot requires that the wood be wet enough- nearly saturated- for it to begin. Limber holes that aren't sealed- or improperly sealed- have been discussed here many times before. Apparently, some models used PVC inserts that were just siliconed in place. The problem is not that the wood got wet- it's that a failure in that silicone seal not just let water in, it trapped it. The wood didn't just get wet, it STAYED wet- and over a long period the wood can absorb enough moisture, reaches the saturation level where rot can begin- and so it goes. I've checked the limber holes in my 390- none of them are glassed, and the wood surrounding the hole in all of them is dry and solid as a rock. Does it get wet on the surface occasionally, like when I'm hosing out the bilge, sure. But it doesn't stay wet, my bilge is bone dry.

If you can find one, surveyors use a phenolic hammer for sounding. Any hammer with a hard, plastic head will work. Hit the stringer (or hull) sharply- you'll hear a solid "thunk". Go over a rotted area and it's more like a dull "thud".

In the OP's case, there HAD to be a source of moisture for the stringers to get wet at the motor mounts (if that's indeed where it started). Just notching stringers and not glassing them doesn't cause rot. Like I said, it has to get wet, and stay wet. Perhaps a leaky hatch scupper or lifting bolt.

If you've got a self-bailing boat, with scuppered hatches, and dripless seals (if an inboard), there's no reason to have water in the bilge- period.

 

Dear Abby,

I assume all new boats are fiberglass stringers? The description of mine says that they are...is there wood underneath the glass?

Are "wet stingers" no longer a concern for new boats?

Is there ANY wood anymore to worry about?

-confused in Connecticut

 

A large amount of stringers are wood encapsulated in fiberglass, still used frequently. Many VEC constructed low boats have minimal, if any wood in them. So there is still wood to worry about, depending on the type and year of boat.

 

Hmmm...wonder how I can find out specifically about my boat. In the write up it states "fiberglass stringers" but that does leave it open enough to say they are made wholly of fiberglass stringers, OR wood encased in glass.

 

Well I guess I’m learning a hard lesson. Keeping the bilge dry now makes sense however was it ever Sea Ray’s intention to keep it dry? I have reservations particularly when the boat has stuffing boxes, a cockpit hatch that drains directly into the bilge, and motor compartments that have a lack of side scuppers to drain the water to the pumps…drains well when you away from the dock but sits when tied to it. Here is my concern, if we can agree that fiberglass is not waterproof and a hull will absorb water and get heavier the longer it sits in the drink than you also have to assume that the stringers, to a certain extent, will do the same. What is the difference between a hull and a stringer that a stringer is subject to water damage? Sounds to me that there were design issues and that we (I) are (am) paying the price. In fact the Sea Ray customer service rep told me that they have had very little problems with their stringer system. I must have miss read the manual when it covered this subject.
As far as running the boat for a couple of years, I’m not feeling warm and fuzzy doing so, not unless I want to hang in protected waters at trawler speed. The risk I take is not worth someone’s life over it particularly when it could be mine. Sorry for the tone but I’m frustrated and have lost a great deal of money for a boat that I took very good care of.

 

Yes. A hard lesson indeed. As far as running boat is concerned, one of the likely outcomes will be broken prop shafts. When the stringers are not sound, the motor will flex and put strains on the running gear. The buyer of my 86 discovered the stringer problem when he broke a shaft and lost a prop.

 

tobnpr--- where does the water from your aft a/c drain to??

 

Just did this:
http://www.clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8408

I'll add one other point since we're talking dry bilges- leave a hatch or two open if you can. This aids in evaporating any moisture in the bilge, and keeps the bilge well ventilated which can help w/ corrosion issues as well. Now that I've put a full mooring cover over the cockpit, I leave the hatch over the lazarette off all the time.

 

Do a google search on a product called "Seacast" it is an epoxy polymer that is supposed to be designed to be poured into stringers and transoms after rotten wood is removed. It takes the place of the structural wood and is only requires removal of the rotten material. The fiberglass stringer acts as a form to pour the Seacast into. The only glass work involved is removing and reinstalling the stringer cap. This would be an option if one were to tackle a job like this themselves.