You need to take it out, tie it to the back of your truck/car on a long rope then drag it around town.

If you search on RN300 or RN 300, you'll find a lot of discussion on this fine piece of Raymarine equipment.

 

Where exactly does one find the zincs on the Model: 7.0 BCGB (5.0 BCGB) & KW gasoline generator

Westerbeke part number011885 Zinc

I have downloaded the users manual but doing a search does not even find zinc

Never mind I was able to find it but doing a search on the .pdf manual does not list "zinc."


Model: 7.0 BCGB (5.0 BCGB) & KW gasoline generator


Thanks

:thumbsup:

 

Any 380 owners here have the Rverso oil change system? Would this unit work for my 380 or am I missing something. My marina quotes a price of $763.00, but this add states this unit pred at $519.95 (3 valve) will work, or do I need a four valve, 2 engines + 1 generator + one discharge valve = 4 valve unit or when they talk about valves are they just refering to 2 engines + 1 generator = 3 valve unit

I am also being quoted $640.00 to $800.00 for labor plus an additional $300.00 to $400.00 for hoses and other parts.

Reverso

Anyone have any input about this being an ok ballpark figure?

Thanks

:thumbsup:

 

Any 380 owners here have the Rverso oil change system? Would this unit work for my 380 or am I missing something. My marina quotes a price of $763.00, but this add states this unit pred at $519.95 (3 valve) will work, or do I need a four valve, 2 engines + 1 generator + one discharge valve = 4 valve unit or when they talk about valves are they just refering to 2 engines + 1 generator = 3 valve unit

I am also being quoted $640.00 to $800.00 for labor plus an additional $300.00 to $400.00 for hoses and other parts.

Reverso

What did you put in? Any pics? Hows it work? Whered you wire it to? How much for install? 3 or 5 zone?

 

Ok let's try a different question/tact,

How about windshield washer reservoir location?

From 380 DA Part smanual
Page 26 Item 19 - 681486 ACTUATOR, ROCK BLK W/O LENS ACCY
679332 BODY, ROCK SW SPST MOM
WINDSHIELD WASHER

And Windshield Washer (not shown)

 

Ok let's try a different question/tact,

How about windshield washer reservoir location?

Windshield washers use water from your fresh water holding tank. You have to have the Fresh water circuit breaker on for them to work. There is a selonoid valve on the port side aft of your cockpit fridge/icemaker behind the cabinetry.

In cold environements, don't forget to run AF through them during your winterization process.

 

Questions regarding rear bilge pump. There is about 1/2 inch of water there, it is enough to just be above the lip of the Rule 2000 bilge pu,p impeller base, probably a couple of quarts water at the most

If I turn on helm rear bilge pump the pump will run, but the water level does not go down, so I turn off the helm switch, and next

I get into the bilge area and disconnect the Rule 2000 bilge pump from the floor base, activate the float switch and the impeller is turning. I clamp the unit back together and again activate the float switch, again there is drop in the water level.

I disconnect the drain hose, and from just looking the hose seems to be clear. I activate the float and the Rule 2000 bilge pump,pumps water out of the drain opening, seems to be a pretty good flow rate. I reconnect the hose, and repeat the process and again the water level does not drop.

Yet if I activate the high water pump I watch the water level go down, but it just returns, when I deactivate it. I am guessing this is just draining back down the hose. (I am not talking about that much water, maybe a couple of quarts or a little more). And since both pump drain hoses go up vertically for almost 24 inches, I believe this water is just draining back.

Any ideas? I am going to attempt to run a snake through the rear bilge drain line, but I do not think there is any blockage in it (I stuck my finger in it when I had it disconnected and it feels pretty clean, no gunk adhering to it on the inside

I believe even if the line was blocked I would a least see the appearance of water moving when I activate the pump.

Do these pumps typically have some high rate of pressure when they operate? I know with the line disconnected the water comes out with the appearance of turning on a water spigot at a high force flow rate

Thanks

 

Spray water into the bilge, and go ahead and clean it out good. Exercise both bilge pumps, insuring that they are working and the float switches are moving freely. Let 'em run for a bit. When they have pumped all that they can, and the water level drops, cut them off. Get that small $29 shop vac from Home Depot and suck out all the remaining water, and the bilge is clean and dry. You can even use a sponge. Works for me.....

 

Getting the water out is not the problem, I am trying to find out if the pump is working correctly. enough pressure, as one pump shows the water level dropping and the rear shows nothing.

The rear like I stated previously, when disconnected from the drain hose shows water pumping out at a pretty good rate, but when connected the water level does not drop while the pump is running, even though the water level is above the impeller housing.:huh:

 

Sorry, I misunderstood. There is a plastic check valve just above the pump that may be stuck. It's just a ball in a plastic housing that prevents water from flowing back into the bilge from all the way from the outlet. Sometimes these things will freeze and break...don't ask how I know.

 

Thanks I will look. according to the Sea Ray manuals I have seen my floats are mounted in the wrong location. The high water float should be behind the pump, next to the bulkhead, and my aft bilge pump float is mounted on the about one inch raised up portion of the bilge deck (What the 380 supplement manual calls the engine room floor, page 12-20 of the supplemental manual) in front of the recessed area where the two pumps are located

I do not want to remove all of the water until I get finished testing and then I am going to look and see if the floats were in fact mounted at their correct locations previously. It seems strange their being moved as they are screwed down to the deck.

If you have access or a copy of the supplemental manual you can see what I am referring to, my aft pump switch is on the engine room floor and the emergency high water float is located where the aft pump float switch sholud be located at

 

I have the aft pump, and in the forward section of the bilge there are 2 pumps, one higher than the other. One is controlled by the forward bilge pump switch, and the higher one is automatic.

 

Maybe this will help? My boat pump float layout. All information is in graphic as well as a question. The high water float is located where the aft should be and the aft is on the engine room floor

Maybe I have answered part of my question unknowingly, by using the current set up for the high water float, there is no check valve, so when it stops the water will just flow back down the about 24 inch vertical section of hose :huh:

The same happens when I activate the aft pump float and stop it the water left between the check valve and the pup outlet flows back down that hose :huh:

But, anyway you look at it my floats are mounted in the wrong location, unless this was a Sea Ray change which I am unaware of it being made.

Thanks

:thumbsup:

 

I'll have to strp back and re-look at my boat, but here's what I think.....the only pump with a check valve should be the lowest pump in the system. Reasoning (I think) that it's OK for the other 2 pumps to drain back into the system, when they cut off, and doing so, will be pumped out by the lowest level pump in the bilge.

 

My float switches are mounted just like yours. The bilge pump will never get all of the water out and yes it will drain back from the hose.

 

Like mine? One is on the engine room floor (Aft float) and the high water is between the two pumps?

I do not believe the high water pump has a check valve for when the high water is eventually pumped down the other pump should also be working. The check valve here would make since to stop this pump once the water is out

Perhaps Sea Ray made a change and the manual does not reflect it.

Thanks for the replies from you two.

:thumbsup:

 

Here is a picture from my survey. It shows the 2 bilge pumps. Neither pump gets all the water out. So I vacuum it out, and it stays dry for awhile.

 

Thanks a bunch

That is just how mine is also, I have to wonder why they call the rear pump the emergency high water pump and the forward (aft) pump the rear bilge pump. The float on this with it's location would make it seem more appropriate as the emergency high water pump

 

<deleted>

 

The high water alarm goes off on my boat when I manually activate the forward bilge switch. The rear bilge is activated when I throw the switch on the dash.

I get some weak back after they both run.

 

ditto

 

I assume these are the whale non-leak back or check valves. Has anyone tried to replace them? Where would you buy them?

 

In dc380's photo, the pump on the top of the photo (which is the aft part of the engine room) is the "aft" bildge pump that is automatic and may also be manually activated by the "aft switch" at the helm and the float for that pump is located on the low part of the bildge.(not visable in the photo obscured by raw water lines)

The other pump in the photo is the " high water" aft pump which is automatic and not controlled by any switch at the helm and the float is located on the raised portion of the engine room floor. (omited on the Searay Diagram but shown with your blue arrow)

Although it should be tested regularly, if the high water aft pump is activated you will get an alarm on the system monitor, reading aft pump and you've got BIG problems. meaning ALOT of water in the engine room.

In the forward part of the engine room there is the "forward" bildge pump that is automatic and may also be manually activated by the "forward switch" at the helm and the float for that pump is located on the low part of the forward bildge.

I learned the hard way that the bildge pump in the salon bildge (behind the shower, condensate pump (enclosed in a box - forget about that one for now) is the " high water" forward bildge pump which is automatic and not controlled by any switch at the helm and if the "high water forward pump" is activated you will get an alarm on the system monitor reading forward pump.

Poorly described as I thought is was the forward pump in the bildge but that's a whole other story.

There are 3 seperate discharge lines, that have seperate thru hull fittings well above the water line, each of which has a check valve.

I spend a good amount of time twice a year with a hose in the engine room making sure that everything is working as it is supposed to. Rarely is this the case.

Not trying to go on too long with this post, but... The pump maufacturer does not want a check valve on the line because if holds back a column of water that the pump must overcome. When I talked to the Searay guys at Merritt Island they said that is the way Searay does it because the water in each discharge line, when the pump shuts down, would end up back in the bilge and also that the check valve would stop any sea water from coming in, in the worst case scenario. (at that point I'd be ready to abandon ship).

After spraying away of the gunk from the standing water from rain etc., I take off the nozzle and run the hose full blast for a few minutes. and the pumps will cycle on and off making sure the check valves aren't frozen and the pumps and floats are free of debris.

Just one of many exciting boat lessons I've learned from boat problems.

 

In dc380's photo, the pump on the top of the photo (which is the aft part of the engine room) is the "aft" bildge pump that is automatic and may also be manually activated by the "aft switch" at the helm and the float for that pump is located on the low part of the bildge.(not visable in the photo obscured by raw water lines)

The other pump in the photo is the " high water" aft pump which is automatic and not controlled by any switch at the helm and the float is located on the raised portion of the engine room floor. (omited on the Searay Diagram but shown with your blue arrow)

Although it should be tested regularly, if the high water aft pump is activated you will get an alarm on the system monitor, reading aft pump and you've got BIG problems. meaning ALOT of water in the engine room.

In the forward part of the engine room there is the "forward" bildge pump that is automatic and may also be manually activated by the "forward switch" at the helm and the float for that pump is located on the low part of the forward bildge.

I learned the hard way that the bildge pump in the salon bildge (behind the shower, condensate pump (enclosed in a box - forget about that one for now) is the " high water" forward bildge pump which is automatic and not controlled by any switch at the helm and if the "high water forward pump" is activated you will get an alarm on the system monitor reading forward pump.

Poorly described as I thought is was the forward pump in the bildge but that's a whole other story.

There are 3 seperate discharge lines, that have seperate thru hull fittings well above the water line, each of which has a check valve.

I spend a good amount of time twice a year with a hose in the engine room making sure that everything is working as it is supposed to. Rarely is this the case.

Not trying to go on too long with this post, but... The pump maufacturer does not want a check valve on the line because if holds back a column of water that the pump must overcome. When I talked to the Searay guys at Merritt Island they said that is the way Searay does it because the water in each discharge line, when the pump shuts down, would end up back in the bilge and also that the check valve would stop any sea water from coming in, in the worst case scenario. (at that point I'd be ready to abandon ship).

After spraying away of the gunk from the standing water from rain etc., I take off the nozzle and run the hose full blast for a few minutes. and the pumps will cycle on and off making sure the check valves aren't frozen and the pumps and floats are free of debris.

Just one of many exciting boat lessons I've learned from boat problems.

 

If that is the case, then I believe someone replaced the floats and has incorrectly wired them. For it me it made no since for the what the manual calls the aft pump to come on using the engine room floor float switch

If you look at my diagram, what they call the "Emergency High Water Bilge Pump" in my boat is activated by (I am using the diagram here for reference only) the "Aft Pump Float Switch." :huh:

And what they call the "Aft Bilge Pump" is activated by a float switch mounted on the engine room floor :huh:

I am going to double check all this weekend

Thanks
:thumbsup:

 

Don't worry about the Searay diagram

If the float on the raised "engine room floor", when turned by hand, sets off the alarm, you are good to go. It would be quite the effort to rewire incorrectly.

 

Hey "Wingless" a question if you do not mind?

Your signature ends with "many mods..." Would you be willing to post any comments or send a PM about what mods you have made?

Thanks

:thumbsup:

 

Last year I experienced that same issue, this year the only thing I changed was a leaky water pump housing on the generator, and now my bilge stays dry.

The other thing to check our you dripless stuffing box, they do leak occasionally.

The 380 aside of me water heater drain valve was not totally closed by the yard, and it to leaked into the bilge. So there are lots of places where water can come.

Finding the source can be difficult, unless the source leaves a stain.

 

Do you have a picture or can explain to me where this valve is located?

Another question Sea Ray has a warning label which says to insure hot water heater is full before turning on the power breaker. I know where the hot water heater is located, but just how exactly does one tell if it is full.

I have not used the hot water heater since I bought the boat. The Sea Ray manual is not much good, and unfortunately I do not have any other manual, which Sea Ray states to consult

Thanks

:thumbsup:

As an aside it would appear that I am the only one that has ever has any 380 questions. Oh well, as long as those who do have 380's continue to answer. I will continue to ask. Who knows maybe another new 380 member will cruise in to CSR.:huh:

 

There is a access door under the rear couch. With the couch in the up position, open the door, and with a flash light look for a turn off/on valve. It looks likes the same as the valve on your home water heater. Make sure it's closed.

To check that the water heater is full, open the hot water fauset in the kitchen. When water comes out, the hotwater tank is full.

Filling your water tank and running the water pump will also fill the hotwater tank, the pump wouldn't shutoff until it's full and pressurized.

When I first got my 380 I had a alot of questions, which I asked on this forum and other forums. I've saves thousands by getting advice from this website.

Your not alone.

Dave

 

The HWH on the 380DA, at least on my 2002 380DA, has a mixing valve. I was going to post this in another thread, but I forget where that other thread is right now. Anyway, for winterizing, you can't just use a store bought bypass kit. I made a three way bypass from 15mm tubing, two elbows and a tee.

Here's a pic of that bypass installed. The two blue lines are the two cold water lines. One is to feed the HWH itself and the other goes to the mixing valve to add cold to hot ciruit. The upper 'bend' in the gray line goes to the red hot water line (not in the pic) to complete the bypass...

Here is a closer look at the drain valve for the HWH. It's permanently connected to a hose that drains into the forward part of the main bilge...

 

Hi Dom

How did you get access to the HWH from the top? The picture of the mixing valve is from the top and not through the access door.

Does the couch come out? I've often wondered how you would get the hot water heater out if it needed to be replaced.

Dave