I have had many problems with these. What I do is remove the collar with a cut off tool and then put hose clamps on them.

 

I had those on my 340. You could look at them and they would start to leak. I found new cone washers for them. Let me see if I have the link anywhere...

 

Bennet - I love it when I can actually find something from 10 years ago...

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-1812-seatech-cone-seal-12-nps.aspx

These worked for me on my '05 340...

 

I have recently see these while researching. I have seen them on my connections, but did not really realize what there purpose was. I figured out today where they go and what they do. I had not found them though and thanks for the link. These did it huh? Do you know if there is an O-ring behind it or is this the only “lose piece” that fits into the female connector?

They leak just behind the big piece that you turn to tighten it right out the front of the crimp fitting.

I have considered cutting these off and using a “push on” Pex female connector.

Ordering these tonight.

Thanks for the help,
Bennett

 

I've replaced some of mine with new cone washers..... better, but still drip. Plan B is to try some sealant as well. Plan C is to go to a completely different fitting.

 

Our boat is 1989 and uses a brass equivalent to this fitting. I have had some brass leak at washer and were able to buy elbows and strait connections at Lowes and Home Depot. I have some "T"s I got a few years ago but can not find them any more. They are by PEX so far they do not leak.
https://www.lowes.ca/pex-compressio...rn-12-in-dia-pex-elbow-compression-fitting_g1568263.html?searchTerm=pex-fitting

 

I found the Pex fittings at Lowe’s and ordered a different SeaTech fitting along with some cone washers. I am going to experiment a little and see what works best.

Bennett

 

Bennett - it's been a while, but new cone washers worked for me - I recall that you don't want to overtighten the fittings...You will probably find that your current cone washers are crushed...There was not another washer in mine - just the cone washers...

 

Got it Carter and thank you. I promise you I have overtightened the ones that are dripping. They drip behind the swivel piece you tighten and directly in front of the crimp. I ordered a bunch of them.

I am also going to experiment with some other ideas, but if the cone washers work, that will be the easiest fix. I guess i am a little anal as I hate water anywhere in my boat. Thanks for your help.

Bennett

 

You bet Bennett. I hope they work for you as well. An incredibly cheap fix.

I hate water anywhere as well...in fact my joke on the dock when it rains is: "I hate it when the boat gets wet"!!

 

Update: Replaced cone washers on several female connectors and no more drips! At $0.73 each, cheapest fix around!

I did make up and replace one 2’ hose. I used the push to lock Sea Tech Female connectors and a piece of Pex pipe. I really like the the new Sea Tech fittings...

Washers and connectors came from www.freshwatersystems.com.

Bennett

 

#me2 and thank you Carter & Bennett. (probably did that wrong as I don't know anything about twitter).

I just developed a couple of leaks on Unleashed. Probably due to over tightening during recent freshwater pump replacement.

Glad to see somebody else has already found a solution. Only needed 2 but just ordered 20 at $0.58 ea. I'm sure I'll need the others sooner or later.

 

Timely - I just completed chlorination of the water system and just about every one of those Uniflex hose ends started dripping; I noticed the pump cycling on and off. I ordered 50 of those cone seals.....
I counted 48 needed on the 52DB; I have no idea on how to get to the ones behind walls in the heads......

So, I've tried tighter and looser on the fittings but no change to the drip.
How tight should the fittings be on the new cone seals? Assume hand tight but don't know exactly; can't find on the manufacturer's web site....

 

Timely - I just completed chlorination of the water system and just about every one of those Uniflex hose ends started dripping; I noticed the pump cycling on and off. I ordered 50 of those cone seals.....
I counted 48 needed on the 52DB; I have no idea on how to get to the ones behind walls in the heads......

So, I've tried to tighter and looser on the fittings but no change to the drip.
How tight should the fittings be on the new cone seals? Assume hand tight but don't know exactly; can't find on the manufacturer's web site....

I asked the same question earlier and Carter said about a 5 on a scale of 1-10-hand tighten. I some that no matter what I do, I cannot stop the drips. Also, one day they drip and not the next. They are a pain. I am not sure that something is not up with the actual female connector. Initially, it seemed this was the 100% answer.

I had a short 2' hose in the transom locker. Both ends were dripping. I installed new cone washers and no matter how tight or loose I got them, still dripped. Made up a new hose with a piece of Pex pipe and 2-Sea Tech female connectors and that one is perfect.

I put new cone washers in others that are good one day and drip the next. Please keep me posted how you guys come out. I have tried barely tightening them and then tightened them as tight as possible by hand and same results.....

Bennett

 

They make all kind of fittings to adapt to pex in the sea tech as you call them or shark-bite as they are called around here ( connector with the teeth and o-ring inside ) so you can eliminate the cone washers fittings. Or you can get regular pex fitting and crimp them together and never have to worry. They also make a release tool for the shark bite and or sea tech fittings so you can disassemble them any time you need too. Take a trip to your plumbing supply house or even home depot. When I get a leak I change them out done , fixed don't have to worry any more. It isn't as complex as people are making it out to be!

 

do all the connections you replace have enough "slack" to cut off the old connector and replace with a shark-bite connection?

p.s. i started with replacing the cone washers and they didn't really work. it's actually the design of the connection itself - where the captured "nut" mates up with the flat part of the connector that fails. i put some stretch seal tape on a few spots when i had the 260. seemed to work really well and it was a fraction of the cost and effort to remedy.

 

Ends up the leaks are not from the cone seals but the crimped assembly. Here is the fix.
The plastic fittings are PEX 1/2" X 1/2" FNPT swivel adapters. Lowes has the Sharkbite brand in bags of 5 for around $10. The big problem is the Uniflex hose ID is larger than the OD of the PEX Adapter fittings that SeaTech used in the original crimped assembly. The material used to crimp it all together is brass and very soft. Over time the crimp relaxes and the hose internal lining hardens and the leaks occurs between the hose and the plastic barbed end. See the attached picture of one I took apart. The issue is, unless the valve manifold is to be changed the PEX adapters need to be used but the hose does not fit. So, cut the old PEX fitting off, heat up the end of the hose until soft with a heat gun, slide on a heavy duty worm drive clamp, insert a new PEX adapter and clamp the warmed hose down on the fitting. I used a ratchet to be able to really drive the clamp down and seat the hose on the barbs. Simple fix and works like a charm.

 

I was just about to take one apart as you did today. I still am just to check one thing-will the Sea Tech “push on” fittings work therefore needing no clamp.

One question...what size worm clamp did you buy?

Many thanks,
Bennett

 

I was just about to take one apart as you did today. I still am just to check one thing-will the Sea Tech “push on” fittings work therefore needing no clamp.

One question...what size worm clamp did you buy?

Many thanks,
Bennett

Size 06 with 1/2" band. Ideal P/N 6706-6

 

The OD of the OEM hose is too large to fit into the “push to lock” Sea Tech fittings.

The new female connectors and clamps it is!

Bennett

 

Over the weekend I addressed my leaks. I didn't mess with the crimped portions at all. The replacement ferrule worked like a charm. I really had to work at it in order to dig it out. By looking at the inside of the female fitting, I would have never realized there was a ferrule inside.

 

A company called "Brewmagic" makes a stainless swivel connector 1/2" Barb X 1/2" FIP that works PERFECT for repairing this problem ($9.00 ea.) Comes with an o-ring though, so you need the correct cone washer, Order from Fresh Water systems (SeaTech cone seal 1/2 NPS), ($.58 ea) I've changed out maybe a dozen of these on my '05 420 and they are EASY to change and work GREAT... And the swivel will never be a problem In the future if there is a leak, a fix is just a cone washer away..

 

I got everything together and got started this past weekend. I ordered the SS pinch clamps form McMaster-Carr for about $0.50 each and picked up the PEX female connectors with the 1/2" barb from HD for about $1 each. I have more to do, but installed 4 of the connectors and stopped 75% of my drips. One thing for sure...there is very little extra hose!

Bennett

 

I got everything together and got started this past weekend. I ordered the SS pinch clamps form McMaster-Carr for about $0.50 each and picked up the PEX female connectors with the 1/2" barb from HD for about $1 each. I have more to do, but installed 4 of the connectors and stopped 75% of my drips. One thing for sure...there is very little extra hose!

Bennett View attachment 53108

Great job Bennet! Any reason you went with the crimp fitting vs SS worm style hose clamps?

 

I tried the plastic PEX swivels with PEX clamps and they were too loose in the hose. And if I could get them tight enough, I figured they would just eventually leak again, like the original plastic swivels... So I spent some $$ for metal ones... Anyway, we'll see what happens down the road... I did replace one stretch of hose with pex pipe, elbow and swivels... That stuff is really easy to work with... I would use it everywhere if it wasn't so hard to to push it through all that sealant goop SeaRay uses in the bulkheads... Anyway, good luck!!

 

The 1/2” Pex clamps are too small and the 3/4” are too big. That is why I ordered from McMaster-Carr. I also have some Pex fittings that the barbed potion is brass.

Bennett

 

Replaced all but one female connector and clamp on my fresh water manifold. The cold water for the washing machine is not needed now anyway. Also replaced the outfeed side of my onboard pump. Did the HWH last weekend. After 24 hours, “0” leaks on my manifold or pump.

However, the pump continues to cycle for 1/2 second every hour or so. Finally found it. Either the hot or cold to the Master Shower. It appears the medicine cabinet will somehow have to come out to gain enough access.

Thanks to TTMott for post. I was on the same track, but he proved it out before me.

 

I contacted SeaTech and bought the newer manifold ($380), cut back the existing hoses, and clamped them to PEX Pipe which simply pushes into the shark bite fitting. The manifold was expensive, but it’s bone dry now. I’m away from the boat and because the manifold is under the galley hatch I needed the ‘no drip’ peace of mind.

 

dusting off this thread. developed a leak at the water heater where the cold supply line comes in. my lines on the 44DA look to be pex and not the hose seen earlier in this thread. see picture below (and don't mind the leak tape, it was a bandaide to get me through some other projects first).

can anyone verify the size of the red and blue lines? my plan is to cut them back, put on new fittings and reconnect (with a water heater bypass). wish i would have though to drain everything and bring the fittings home so i could shop this week, but too many other things got in the way.

Thanks!

 

might have answered my own question. looks like all my lines are 1/2" Zurn PEX?

should be able to get some PEX fittings to rebuild, correct?

 

might have answered my own question. looks like all my lines are 1/2" Zurn PEX?
View attachment 55634


should be able to get some PEX fittings to rebuild, correct?

If I were you, I would do one of two things. 1) Go to HD or Lowes and simply get some 1/2" female connectors and some 1/2" pex pinch clamps and done. 2) Or... https://www.freshwatersystems.com and get these-these work really well.

Bennett