I run 5 feet on my 240SD. Its a bit light, but 9/10 out of ten it is fine. I just don't want the extra weight and hassle if dragging it up into the boat. W/ the 5 feet I can get the chain and anchor out of the water and clean the mud off w/o banging chain or anchor against precious gel.

 

20 - 25 feet. Need more for challenging conditions.

 

Are you sure you have the right anchor for the bottom conditions and size of your boat?

In run abouts like ours it's not feasible to have 10+ feet of chain as it is with a cruiser with a windlass. If it's the right anchor, it should be good with 5-6' of good heavy chain.

 

I do not use any chain nor have I ever used chain on the other two boats I owned. The type of bottom we have on our lake is probably the reason the anchor will take a set just fine without needing any chain rode. I have also found that my Fortress and Plow Anchor set a lot better than any of the other types I have tried.

 

I have the stock anchor and rope they gave me with my boat and have never had problems with setting it in the sandy bottom here and it holding.

 

I've got a Hooker and that also seems to be very popular as the freebe. So far, it's been with the boat since new, and only last year did I hook it on some rocks and bend it slightly.

It's been great grabbing all kinds of bottoms. Or was that me? :smt043

I think sand is much easier to grab so I can see not needing any chain. Clay is a PITA but when it bites, it bites hard.

 

I've got a Hooker and that also seems to be very popular as the freebe. So far, it's been with the boat since new, and only last year did I hook it on some rocks and bend it slightly.

It's been great grabbing all kinds of bottoms. Or was that me? :smt043

I think sand is much easier to grab so I can see not needing any chain. Clay is a PITA but when it bites, it bites hard.

Hooker? Freebe? grabbing bottoms? I wanna know where you boat at :smt043

 

IMHO - 5' of Chain is all you should need on your size boat. I've got 6' on my 240 and never had a problem with it holding. I also keep a couple different types of anchor aboard for different types of bottoms. Just got a new stern anchor for off shore beaching situations per some great experience in PCB at our CSR June trip.

 

Plow w/30' of chain. It came with the boat and has worked all but 1x in a weed bottom area.

In heavy weeds pure weight seems to work the best.

 

I am no expert on the matter, but my view is that chain helps holding not setting. The chain helps holding by acting as a damper between the pull on the rope and the set anchor.

For what it's worth, I have a fortress anchor with no chain and it has held solid in 6 feet of water with waves breaking over the bow. I feared sinking more than the anchor dragging.

If there is a problem setting it is probably the anchor, the bottom or a mismatch between the two.

 

I am no expert on the matter, but my view is that chain helps holding not setting. The chain helps holding by acting as a damper between the pull on the rope and the set anchor.

The weight of the chain holds the anchor more parallel with the bottom so it has a better chance to bite and set. Once set, if you're holding taut, the chain isn't really doing anything since it's tight and in line with the rope between the boat and anchor.

 

This is how I see it.

There are different types of anchor but they all have two main parts, which are a shank to which the rope or chain attaches at one end, and flukes or fingers at the other end of the shank. The basic idea of setting the anchor is to get the shank parallel to the sea bottom and the flukes or fingers to embed into the sea bottom. In a sand or soft bottom if there is too much weight at the rope or chain end of the shank it will cause the shank to plough into the sea bottom which hinders proper setting. It is important that the crown of the anchor does not embed into the sea bottom so that the flukes have a chance to set. If the shank ploughs the crown will most likely embed. A good anchor provided with the proper 5:1 - 7:1 scope should set properly without any chain.

Chain does two things. Firstly, with the proper scope the rope closest to the anchor is resting on the sea bottom and can chafe. Chain won’t chafe. Secondly, chain dampens shocks on the anchor rope (i.e. chain helps absorb boat movement due to wind, current and waves and prevent it being transferred to the anchor). If the chain was merely “tight and in line with the rope between the boat and anchor†then whenever a wave lifted the bow, for example, it would also lift the anchor. The weight of chain causes it to rest on the sea bottom (i.e. it is not tight in line with the rope) and so a wave lifts the chain not the anchor. If fact, with the correct scope the rope alone will offer most of this damping action, but chain is extra insurance for larger boats or heaver weather.

Only my view. Others may differ.

PS - although my current toy is a wee 210, most of my anchoring experience is on 40' + sailing yachts.

 

Try a Fortress FX-7 anchor. This is by far the best anchor I have ever owned. It's aluminum, light and holds the first time around every time. I have been dropping and retrieving anchors since I was eight or nine. Now, about 30 yrs. later, I have found the perfect anchor.

 

I think sand is much easier to grab so I can see not needing any chain.

I have a #10 anchor and I am almost entirely anchoring in sand. Do you think I could get away with not having any chain on it?

 

I second the Fortress FX-7. I have 6' of chain, 99% catches first time.

 

We anchor in soft clay/mud. The stock fluke anchor without chain works just fine. It will also work well in sand, and is considered a top anchor for sand.

If you anchor a lot in grass, one trick is to have a heavier anchor and sharpen the edge that should be imbedding itself into the bottom. Sharpening that edge helps it cut through grass/weeds. It's not a 100% certain solution, but then what is?