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Going to go look at a 2000 260

11K views 91 replies 29 participants last post by  Tacoma290  
#1 ·
Hey everyone.
I'm excited to announce that I'm going to look at a 2000 260.
Here the ad. Owner says he hasn't used it much and that he hasn't had time, with a 1 year old, to use it.
He says it's really dirty right now and we're going to look at it in an hour in the pouring rain but I don't care it's been almost 3 mos since I was on a boat so here's the ad.
As always I would like anyone's advice and opinions.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/boa/449794788.html
 
#5 ·
Todd, She looks nice in the photos!

94 hours on an 8-year-old boat would raise a red flag for me...as Frank has said many times, low hours isn't always a good thing. I would suggest a mechanical as well as hull survey. Has it been kept in the water? Can't tell from the pics if it's on land or in the water.

If you do much in the way of water sports (suicide tubing?) the 5.7 may not be enough power. We tube and it's fine, but I don't think the acceleration is enough to ski behind.

Be sure it has air conditioning, especially if you may be sleeping in marinas or sheltered areas, as the cabin doesn't get a lot of air when we're docked. It's fine on the hook, but when docked the cabin gets very stuffy.

The camper canavs is nice, but we bought a cockpit cover pretty quickly. Much faster to put up/take down, and it saves the eisenglass. We paid about $600 for ours two years ago -- certainly not a deal-breaker but nice to have.

Best of luck with it! We love ours.
Jeff

EDIT -- oops, I see Frank and I crossed posts. If he's not worried about the low hours, forget I mentioned it.....
 
#6 ·
The 260HP engine on that boat will probably perform a lot like the 300HP engine on the newer 260DAs because it is lighter in overall weight. There is no arch. Don't know if that's important or not. It's says full camper canvas. Just make sure it has two Biminis or you will have a slant back setup in the rear. You have been on the newer 260DA's so take note of the differences in the cockpit since there is less storage there. The cabins are very similar to the new ones.

Hope it turns out well. Let us know what you think.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Ok I just left. Well she is very dirty, but like Frank said, some soap, water, a THOROUGH detail and scouring service will be required for us. I have already talked to the Service Manager at our dealer which luckily sold the boat originally. He said it needs a service but with oply 94 hours should be more TLC than anything major. The isenglass needs replacement and the Anchor is missing. I think the risers look due simply by the visual rust around them and the manifolds. Owner is eager to sell so my bid if we proceed will be extremely considerate of these issues..

RiverRat,
There is no trailer and we have talked about dry storing it for a year and see how we like it.
Dave,
Other than less storage I seem to like the layout in the salon better. That aft seat laying out flat I think will be nice. There are no electronics. Also all of the canvas is there biminis and all but the Isenglass as mentioned is trashed from UV and weather.

Jeff,
I don't really think we care too much about the water sports and don't expect this to be the boat for that. It does not have A/C but we don't need that around here by any means. Add says it has FWC & heat but it doesn't. That for us is more important than A/C, so I'll have to add that.

ghuskin,
She is not named which I like. We can name her if we move forward, so I can save the champagne for that rather than the renaming ceremony.


Other than the dirt and the above, it really is a brand new boat that has simply just sat. So, Let me have it. I want to cover all my bases. Here are some pictures.
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Thanks in advance guys
 
#8 ·
I loved my 2000 - 260 Sundancer. Overall this model boat really doesn't have issues. Have the drive pulled and check the coupler. That would be my only recommedation. You can have the clear vinyl replaced on the canvas with a better quality and removed the track at the base of the canvas and install snaps.
 
#10 · (Edited)
One day in the engine spaces with a wire brush, primer and paint, some risers and spacers, 2 days on the hull and topside, new canvas and isinglass, a major service and you'll have a new boat.

For valuation, all a dealer will tell him the boat is worth is low wholesale + the cost to freshen the boat so it will pass a survey.

As with any boat deal, make the offer contingent upon a survey of the hull and mechanicals as well as a sea trial.

The guy knows he's set a trap for himself by letting the boat sit for years. Cut his feet out from under him at below wholesale $ and let's go boating!
 
#11 ·
The main concern I would have is the tell tale rust around the joints for the manifold and risers. You may be willing to spring for replacements but it may be prudent to have the engine itself thoroughly checked out as a condition of purchase. I would be afraid of possible water intrusion because if you see rust on the outside of the joints maybe water was leaking on the inside too. Maybe Frank or someone more experienced than me can offer an opinion on that one. You may also have to plan on replacing things like belts and hoses as well, but closer inspection of the engine should reveal what needs to be done. Since the boat is in the water, you really didn't have a chance to look at the outdrive either did you? That could be in real bad shape so you should ask the boat be taken out of the water and you can also inspect the hull too while you are at it. The rest of the work will just entail a lot of hard clean up work to bring her back. If the canvas itself is in good shape you may be able to clean that and re-waterproof it and bring back the eisenglass panels so they are clear again.

It sounds like it might be a good deal.
 
#12 ·
Todd,

If you do get this boat, before you buy new isinglass, try the pledge trick 1 time.

#1) Buy a can of lemon pledge.
#2) Rinse the isinglass.
#3) Clean with mild soapy water and rinse again.
#4) Let dry.
#5) Now soak it with pledge. Not a little, really spray it on. Both sides. Let it soak.
#6)Polish with a cotton cloth, like a old cotton T-shirt.
#7) Repeat steps 5&6 until you are satisfied its not getting any better.

This will not make them good as new but it should significantly restore visibility and may allow you to delay replacement of the top for a season or two.

Pledge has a component that will cause the isinglass to yellow over time. After you do this above process you want to switch to plexus or what ever product you prefer for daily cleaning and polishing. Not windex. Pledge is like Mr Clean Magic erasers. Works but its hard on stuff so you don’t want to use it often.
 
#13 ·
I doubt many folks are looking this time of year. I'd go low and also include that fact that he'll have to winterize it, continue to store it, replace the eisenglass, might have to have the bottom cleaned, detail it, no trailer and any other weak excuse you can come up with an offer around 35,000 or so. If he doesn't like it, ask for a counter offer! He may just bite since he knows it's neglected. Sounds like a great deal though.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Looks like that boat is about to sink and if some how it does not sink it could not possibly be cleaned up and repaired to it's former glory. Obviously you are doing him a big favor to take it off of his hands on favorable terms. Good luck Todd.

Why ask him to counter? Frank as usual is right this guy knows he is about to take a bath.
 
#16 ·
I would want to know where this boat has been for 6 years, and when it was run. Looks like it has been at a slip for a long time, judging by the isinglass. Has it sat in salt water for a year or more without being run, with an exhaust valve open to the moist salt air? Does it even get winterized? If there is antifreeze in the water system that has been there for a year, then maybe nothing is to be done, sitting in the water in Seattle. Put a heater in the bilge and ignore it for another winter.

I am wondering if the elbows have been replaced. Where the gasket goes between the starboard riser and the elbow is some white stuff that I don't recognize. Maybe it is gasket sealant. Same for the 1 inch NPT plug in the front side of the riser. Looks like it has been removed and replaced. There is also no paint on the threaded rod that holds the manifold-riser-elbow assembly together. I think the engine check needs to be done very carefully.

Does it have a Bravo III outdrive? If so, what does that look like?

I really don't know the proper way to value the boat, but I did a check on NADA and came up with a low retail of about $37K. If you do as Franks suggests and offer below wholesale, then I don't know what that would be. Maybe 20% less?
 
#17 ·
Guys,
Thanks a ton for the input. Still I welcome any you have.
The worrisome part is that I have always kept my boat(s) in tip top shape. To see one like this pretty dirty is slightly offsetting, however the reality is that it seems to be (outside of cleanliness) in pretty good shape.
Like Frank mentioned, a wire brush, elbow grease and some dealer loving, she'll be ready for the "let's go boating!" reality.
My budget will be cut in half and I will be much more eager to "ADD" the wish list of electronics/"fun stuff".
We shall see, but, the warnings and encouragement from everyone are the checks and balances I need to make sure this is something we will pursue or pass and keep looking.
I’m not scared of hard work, but I certainly don’t want to buy a mechanical project beyond a pressure washer and a Porter Cable polisher
 
#18 ·
Isn't it fun helping a buddy to spend their money???


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All the Best Todd... Here's to having a winter project to be done by July 18th....

Remember, my 2001 had 79 hours on it... and he blew the engine during seatrials... then I got my deal... ;}
 
#19 ·
Todd,

There are several ways to look at this one.......

As long as your visual inspection tells you that you can bring the boat back cosmetically, new canvas and isinglass cost is easy to determine....I think Sea Ray's vendor will sell new canvas direct......but the mechanical stuff may cost you some due diligence money to tell what's going on. If the engine cranks and runs, that tells you a lot. Beyond that a compression check, a leak down test, an oil analysis, pull the risers and spacers, and check the outdrive fluids and you'll understand what is in front of you.

If you are lucky, new risers, spacers and gaskets and a good service and you are done. If you are not lucky, how bad can it be? A new long block is what....under $5K. Just make the offer planning on the worst and low enough to cover every contingency. .......my guess is that you are the only game in town for the seller and you may just be in the driver's seat because most folks won't even consider this boat after looking at it.

Good luck........you did need a winter project didn't you?
 
#20 ·
Yeah. . .I am not sure those risers are going to make it for another 3 years. That is abot $1000 in parts, and a pile of labor (say $2500 total from dealer -> Probably 4 hours of real work)

Other than that. . .I would not fear low hours.

Yes. . .I think you definatley want a cockpit cover. I have had the camper canvas up exactly ONCE on my boat. The camper canvas is far too much work for daily use.

But at $40K ask. . .not like you are betting a HOUSE on this purchase. If you can knock a few grand off. . .life will be good.

BTW: Plan on a few K of random mechanical crap over the next few years :)
 
#21 ·
Wow - I missed the asking price. $40K sounds WAY high -- that's what we paid for our boat three years ago, and it has a genny and heat/AC, and 250 hours (typical for a 3-yo boat in this region).

Great Lakes Boat Tops can probably replace the eisenglass at a relatively low price. Ours was in similar shape and they quoted me just under $700 for the front (3 pcs), sides (front and back), and rear. BTW, when looking that up I found I was a bit high on the cockpit cover -- it was $470 two years ago.

I agree that AC in your climate isn't an issue; my worry was more straight cabin ventilation, but you can get a small, 12-volt fan to move the air around if it gets too stuffy.

From the photos, she looks good. Do your due diligence -- perhaps a little more thoroughly than on a newer boat -- and have fun! We use our boat for cruising and tubing and love it! We were going to try water skiing this year, but just didn't get out in the boat very much. Maybe next year.....

You're right -- the fold-down aft seat/sunpad is a huge hit on ours...as soon as we are anchored, it goes down and someone is stretched out on it. Best of luck!

Jeff
 
#22 ·
Guys, thanks again. Yeah the dealer says risers are $300.00 in parts and a few hours of labor. I gave him a list of things I wanted him to do (if I decide to purchase) so I can gauge a purchase offer and get the mechanical issues addressed.

Once I get that # I can see if an offer would be worth this one to pursue. I think for the price it will be but I want his feedback.

Thank you all again and keep it coming if it comes to mind
 
#23 ·
Yeah the dealer says risers are $300.00 in parts and a few hours of labor.
Make sure those are Merc parts -- my mechanic quoted me $1,000 in parts for risers and elbows at the beginning of this year. Maybe the difference is the elbows, but that seems like a lot. Fortunately, when he pulled them off he found ours were in good shape and didn't need to be replaced.

Jeff
 
#29 ·
I have tremendous experience in replacing risers and elbows and if you go to my website at http://www.riser-discounters.com/ you can save yourself a few bucks. Just trying to help. Or call me at 1-877-543-9845 and we can ship out to you same day.
Todd. It's OK to buy special order masts from this guy but I would stay away from his risers and elbows. And stay away from any of his "specials" too. I see he has a lot of used Cummins parts on his site too if you know anyone that is interested in some worn out........uhhhhh.....I mean......... used parts.
:smt043