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Engine Hatch Noise / Rubbing Issue

1.3K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  GBobble  
#1 ·
Hi all -

On my 2003 320 DA, when I raise / lower my hatch it makes what I'll call a "rubbing" noise. Sometimes it's very minor / barely noticeable, and sometimes it's terrible. It seems to be much worse when the engines have been run for a while (heat expands?) and occasionally it's so bad that the hatch stutters as it's going up/down (see video). Clearly, this is going to ruin my actuators at some point so Id really like to figure out how to resolve this.

There is some scuffing in the glass/cushion on my starboard side of the hatch where the seats meet the hull. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of this, but I can get to the boat and post one if it will help describe the issue better.

I had my local marina look at it and they suggested 4K worth of glass work to shave down the area where it's rubbing ... That seems completely unreasonable to me and possibly only cures the symptom and not the disease ... Why is it rubbing in the first place?

Have any of you ever seen this before? Any suggestions? Does shaving down the glass (at 4K :eek: ) where it rubs seem like a reasonable solution?


PS - I've already greased the zercs and put some oil on the actuator arms to make sure that wasn't the issue.
 
#3 ·
Boats do flex a bit over time

But the first thing to check is the alignment of the hatch. There really isn't an "adjustment", per se, but you'd want to check if the hinges are OK... if the hinges have twisted a bit due the holes wallowing out... if the actuators are healthy and extending at the same rate/power. You can probably tweak the hinge mounting configuration to shift the hatch a tiny bit.
 
#4 ·
I have listened to the video several times and can't help but feel that the noise is related to the lifts. Mine is so much quieter. Obviously I cant tell exactly where the noise is coming from, but I wonder if you lifted the hatch up, propped it open, pulled the pins and actuated it, would the actuators make the same noise.

I had my hatch hinges off to reseal them while I was chasing a leak, and I can say there is certainly a lot of clearance in the 6 bolts. As Lazy states, it might not be that hard to loosen them with a helper and see if you can align the hatch better.

Reference post showing hinges

Reference post with video of lifting hatch for comparing noise.

 
#5 ·
I agree with the above that it "sounds" like hatch rams making that noise... but I'm assuming there are tell-tale rub marks that are corresponding with where the noise is coming from? I've heard fiberglass rubbing against fiberglass many times and it does sound different.
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys - I wanted to get back out to the boat to experiment a bit before I responded. I think you guys are probably right (which means the "professionals" I paid to diagnose the issue are likely wrong :rolleyes: ).

1. As Lazy noted, there are definitely "telltale rub marks" in the glass, but I applied a liberal amount of lithium grease on those areas just to see what would happen and there was no difference in the sound. The rubbing doesn't seem bad enough to be the issue

2. I checked the hinge bolts and a few of them were loose, and one was completely stripped. Im not at all sure what to do about this yet. I gently tightened the loose bolts a bit, being super cautious not to strip them as well, and this didn't seem to have any effect on the sound.

The next time Im at the boat I'll do as BoatrBoy suggested and disconnect the hatch from the actuators and run them and see what happens.

2 Quick Q's:

1. Would one expect that bad actuators will still make noise if there's no weight on them? Any suggestions for simulating a load?

2. If it's the actuator, can those be rebuilt, or do I need to replace them? I've heard that's easier said than done.
 

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#7 ·
2. I checked the hinge bolts and a few of them were loose, and one was completely stripped. Im not at all sure what to do about this yet. I gently tightened the loose bolts a bit, being super cautious not to strip them as well, and this didn't seem to have any effect on the sound.

The next time Im at the boat I'll do as BoatrBoy suggested and disconnect the hatch from the actuators and run them and see what happens.

2 Quick Q's:

1. Would one expect that bad actuators will still make noise if there's no weight on them? Any suggestions for simulating a load?

2. If it's the actuator, can those be rebuilt, or do I need to replace them? I've heard that's easier said than done.
I realize we don’t have the same boat, but does your hinge look like this? Mine is through bolted with locknuts in the bilge. There is a lot of play under those flat heads and a backer plate in the bilge so if I loosed all of them, I’m sure the hatch could be moved slightly.

1724897377701.jpeg
 
#8 ·
I disconnected the hatch from the actuators and sure enough, the noise has nothing to do with the glass ...


So now my search to replace the no-longer-available Acculift MQ347 (ignition-protected) actuators begins. I have a call into MarineMax to see what they tell me and Im expecting very $$$ news.

If anyone knows another source for the SeaRay / MarineMax replacement part # for these (or knows an aftermarket source that's truly apples to apples) LMK.
 
#10 ·
In a separate thread @USMC(ret) has just replaced the actuators on his 2002 320 with a couple from https://www.progressiveautomations.com/ There has been some discussion about whether they are ignition protected but he seemed very confident that they are safe.
Yessir; saw a couple other members here had good experience with them, so that’s what I went with.

If your parts manual says they’re 18” throws, the 14” Progressive works (they do on my ‘02 320).
 
#13 ·
This is an interesting update for anyone following this thread (now or down the road) ...

I reached out to my local MarineMax and to my surprise, they could order the actuators for me. The trick is that you need to know the "new" SeaRay part number which is 1766064.

They arrived within 2 weeks of my order, and I installed them yesterday. They are the 18" ignition protected from Acculift (I don't know the weight rating), worked fine, and were plug-and-play. I don't remember the exact price, but the cost for each was in the neighborhood of $425-$450. With tax and shipping, I paid $1019 for both actuators delivered.

I still have some minor glass/cushion rubbing, and I need to resolve the "loose screws" issue on my latches, but the main issue appears to be resolved.

One last Q for the pro's. The new actuators came "dry". Is there a recommended grease to use for the zercs/gears? I want to make sure Im maintaining these properly.
 

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