Google Boat engine flush systems. There are a ton out there each claiming to be better than the next. The only one I have heard negatives about is the Perko. Great concept, but the automatic valve sticks and the construction is shoddy.

 

Salt-Away with Groco ball valve & tee in sea water pump. If you have strainers this one is an easy option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Groco-sea-w...675.l2557&nma=true&si=QzV7jyAW%2Fxv%2FFwaBPDe7uC8L%2BGA%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

See your post on Bilge cleaning.

http://www.saltawayproducts.com/Products.htm

 

http://www.marineengineparts.com/co...s-valves/engine-flushing/groco-ssc-1250-engine-flushing-adapter-1-1-4-quot.html

This goes on the strainer.
I wanted to put these on my boat but my strainers have 45 degree fittings going down to seacock.

Do you have Horizon motors?
If you do they should have a quick connect hose fitting on top of the motors so you can flush the raw water side.

 

http://www.marineengineparts.com/co...s-valves/engine-flushing/groco-ssc-1250-engine-flushing-adapter-1-1-4-quot.html

This goes on the strainer.
I wanted to put these on my boat but my strainers have 45 degree fittings going down to seacock.

Do you have Horizon motors?
If you do they should have a quick connect hose fitting on top of the motors so you can flush the raw water side.

I do have Horizon 8.1.
Either I don't have a quick connect hose fitting, or I have no clue what they look like or where they are.
Any pics/location info?

 

I was on boat tonight took pics of mine. It's mounted on top of right riser View attachment 40849
View attachment 40848

 

Ok after reading a Mercruiser manual it says only the 350 Horizons have this flush hose.
The 8.1 you have to close the seacock remove the intake hose to the seawater pump and insert the water source there and run it.
Sounds stupid, you can just close the seacock open the strainer cap and stick a hose in it and run it.

DPMULVEY
It says for our motors to close the seacock, remove the drain plugs on bottom of both manifolds, turn on bilge pump, turn on fresh water source (motor off) run hose for 10 minutes.

 

DPMULVEY
It says for our motors to close the seacock, remove the drain plugs on bottom of both manifolds, turn on bilge pump, turn on fresh water source (motor off) run hose for 10 minutes.

Yah I have spoke to Mercruiser about using this system on my 5.7l it's made that way to bypass the thermostat without running the engine with RWC, it can be used for flushing or winterizing. The kit is about $140 from Sea Ray.

https://www.perfprotech.com/flush-kit-mcm-898235a01/product/207778

 

I had 2000/2001 7.4 bb horizons, and they did have the quick connect flush system. BEWARE these cannot be used in all boats with aqualift mufflers if the motors aren't running. They will fill your motor and hydrolock.

 

You can flush after every use as I do and you will still be on a 5 - 6 year manifold replacement cycle. I added very comprehensive flush kits to my twin 5.7s. They started as the Superflush system (was the Guardian flushing system back in the late 90's) and then I upgraded most of the components to brass fittings. They used to make a great product but recently raised the price and threw quality out the window. Concept however is very good. There is a hose flush port that leads to a water accumulator with 4 output ports. Hoses run from each port to a hose barb/brass fittings in 1) the port side block drain plug 2) starboard side block drain plug or knock sensor adapter 3 & 4) either the blue drain plugs in the manifold elbows or t-connectors cut into the hoses before and after the thermostat. Water fills up the cooling system and the water accumulator pulses the water as it flows through the system supposedly knocking loose and salt accumulation. This is all done with the engines off for 5 minutes per engine. I am religious about flushing. After pulling a riser from each motor last year you can see that the system does work as the passages were really good for 4 years of use but they still had some scaling but I still plan on changing them after this season. I could probably stretch it out but the cost of engine replacement is too high to play around with.

 

I made my own.... didnt like the perko unit... i hear they crack, break and leak... I used nylon fittings, ball valve to prevent water goin back down the leg and a quick connect fitting for the water (also doesnt flow until connected which is handy). Owes me $100 and its bullet proof... just need to ensure you open the valve before starting the engine without the hose on it... Pics below