You will not be able to use the button pad as normal switches... they are all bussed together and make only momentary contact. Even replacing the switch pad with normal buttons will be a wiring task as there is only 4 small wires between the pad and EIM.

 

Understand that, a new switch panel would have to be built/ developed with individual switches for each function, just like the old days. Check out traffic light 14 Ga cable. has 8 or 10 individual colors
2 home runs using that cable covers almost all the switched units.
Once I have the pin count all you would do is pick off that wire from the main plug and wire it to a switch.

 

If you're trying to interface regular toggle/rocker switches to the EIM, I don't see the point. It would be easier to wire the new switches direct to the devices.

Unless you're going to try to fix the EIM and switch pad, and retrofit into another boat, I don't see any usable function that either component provides.

What am I missing here? :huh:

 

Are there enough owners with failed switch pads to make this a worthwhile investment?
And when it gets real bad, throw the ecm away and put a carb on it ?

 

This is the EIM which controls DC Accessories he is talking about, not the ECM that controls fuel injection and engine function. The EIMs have been known to cause problems. They are difficult to troubleshoot and expensive to replace.

 

I can see the "fun factor" in dissecting this, but it might be a lot of work for very little return. Since the EIM can also go bad, the easiest (and most reliable) thing to do would be to scrap BOTH the switchpad and the EIM. From there, it's a simple wiring setup to use toggle switches... back to the basics. But, again, "just for fun" - sure, go for it! Probably would even be something I might do!

 

ditto... but I'm not sure I see the "fun factor" as I know exactly how they work.

 

There very expensive to replace and switches are the cheapest route. I plan on tracing the pins and maybe give someone the opportunity to save some money by using regular switches.

 

Take a look at the wiring diagram. The switch pads only have four wires. The system is based on the use of a multiplexer to route the switch to the proper output circuit.

As far as I can see the switch pads have to be replaced with individual switches that are each hard wired to a circuit breaker. These can be wired to a plug that matches the output plug of the EIM.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

No, not using the oem pads, they need the can-buss signal to work. I mean installing standard rocker switches and running a feed to the box and picking off the circuits you need.

 

I think you have done 90% of the work that way. When I've looked at this I've always considered scrapping the box altogether and working through a generic fuse box and running the output to a plug that matches the existing EIM plug. Downsides are if the boat is not equipped with smartcraft gauges there is the loss of gauge dimming. Also a double pole switch with diode has to be added to achieve the mast light only for anchoring and mast with other nav lights for navigation.

On the 280 there is a circuit connecting the forward and aft EIM, I'm not sure what that does, and I'm not sure if it means both EIMs have to be replaced.

I'm really interested in helping with this as I think all of us with the EIM technology may eventually become owners of orphan technology.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

For 2 summers now I have had problems occur with the EIM and switch pads. Usually on the blower side. I have been trying to figure out how to go away from this and get back to toggle basics. I will be very interested in this. Continue on my friend.

 

There's no mystery here people... Its all in your schematics in the back of your manual. Dissecting an EIM from a 2002 WE won't help everyone. Every model is different. Here is the pinout for one of mine:

 

does it have a 40 conductor wiring harness plug ?What about the rear eim?

 

Yes, probably a Deutsch product. The rear EIM is in there also... it uses the same connector.

Here is a schematic of the 2002 225WE EIM that I think you have:

 

The proprietary protocol between the control panel and the load panel is going to be a huge challenge. Might help if you can recognize the CPU identity on the "MUX PROCESSOR." Appears they stuck a label over the processor's identification label. I'm somewhat versed on Freescale's embedded CPU families. On the other hand, you probably can duplicate the functionality with a couple Arduinos...

Anyway, if the CPU is alive, shouldn't be too hard to get the unit functional.

 

Any further along on this project? Thinking about doing a hardwire to all DC stuff this winter.

 

Good Afternoon from England.

I am currently working on a SeaRay 290 DA with these panels and I can safely say that if I had realized the problems they would cause me I would have removed them and wired in a proper switch system!!

In trying to diagnose the problem I have had to replace all components (panels and EIM units) as I could not obtain any information on the operating parameters. I have just replaced the last component (the engine bay EIM) and now I have the following situation:

• Both panels flash up when battery turned on.
• Sbd panel operates fine apart from one of the light buttons. this appears to switch a relay in the upper EIM but induces a clicking in the lower EIM.
• Port panel will only operate any items that are related to the upper EIM. All other switches either operate the equipment (blower, trim tabs etc) momentarily or induce a clicking from lower EIM.

It appears to me that the lower EIM is receiving the 'turn on' signal then immediately after the 'turn off' signal. Or the lower EIM is not sending back to the panel a 'latch on' signal.

There is a discrepancy between the wiring on the boat and the wiring diagram in the manual where the 'RxTx -' and 'RxTX +' wires have been crossed over on the lower EIM.

This is a brand new EIM and I have spent considerable time checking there is nothing on the boat causing it. I am now at the point where I believe the EIM is faulty.

Any advice or pointers greatly appreciated.

 

I’m getting ready to start the replacement project.

I replaced the keypad about a year ago. And now the starboard EIM seems to be HAVE given up.

So I am going to replace with standard rocker switches and circuit breakers.

A lot of great advice on this post. I Would be interested in talking to anyone who has done this or is thinking about it.

I will also be selling the keypad. Which worked fine. And I would warrantee it.

 

Only just saw this how far have you gotten?
We recently discussed this here:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/eim-can-bus-advantages-disadvantages.97361
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...dex.php?threads/blink-marine-electronic-interface-module-eim-replacement.96086/

Bottom line is options are DIY, by new replacement system from SeaRay approx $6000, replacement from FP Marine approx $1500 - $3700
plus possible labor.
SeaRay = very expensive
FPM = better price, but it extends all the power circuits up to the helm (and back) this is a lot of power cable for the Aft EIM in particular.
This could be crowded in the helm for any future repairs or electronic upgrades.

My 300DA is pre-EIM, but in rewiring it I took a similar approach to reduce the power wiring under the helm.
Low power/voltage switches and a relay/circuit breaker box. All off the shelf parts, very inexpensive, maybe $450 plus my time.
And the most expensive part was 20 Carling switches About $200 right there.
It's mixed in here with other electrical I did
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10214499714471188&type=3

If I were to do it again I would start with a rugged Automotive/HD relay fuse box like this:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/460...BRADEiwAVMDdHi1REwvTp34U1X_4BQNfCDhIlZH2wIE18GZhmSyrAmtItCfQCYPr9hoCUEcQAvD_BwE
And the panels such as yours have limited space for Carling style switches I would use smaller like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFPKSKY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_y-CGFb8DYVVJM
They only control the relay so there is no need for 20 amp Carling switches, the relays draw less than 1 amp (~700 milliamps) each.
This also means the control cable does not need to be 14/16 AWG, I used two pre-fabricated communications cables 24AWG x 15 pin.

Sea Ray does not list the wiring for the 2001 280 Sundancer, but the parts book shows the 2002 is the same EIM part numbers, although the switch panels are different shapes.
I would be interested in fabricating such a system as plug n play as possible to see the feasibility of marketing it.
An Eaton box, plus adaptor harness to the Sea Ray 40 Pin connectors, one or two small plug in cables would run to the helm.

At that end would need to decide how you want to layout switches and how fancy a panel you want.
Backlighting for example would require an engraved laminate which I can not do at this time. But various shops can.

If interested let me know here or by PM.
either way good luck!!
Pat Hughes

 

Only just saw this how far have you gotten?
We recently discussed this here:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/eim-can-bus-advantages-disadvantages.97361
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...dex.php?threads/blink-marine-electronic-interface-module-eim-replacement.96086/

Bottom line is options are DIY, by new replacement system from SeaRay approx $6000, replacement from FP Marine approx $1500 - $3700
plus possible labor.
SeaRay = very expensive
FPM = better price, but it extends all the power circuits up to the helm (and back) this is a lot of power cable for the Aft EIM in particular.
This could be crowded in the helm for any future repairs or electronic upgrades.

My 300DA is pre-EIM, but in rewiring it I took a similar approach to reduce the power wiring under the helm.
Low power/voltage switches and a relay/circuit breaker box. All off the shelf parts, very inexpensive, maybe $450 plus my time.
And the most expensive part was 20 Carling switches About $200 right there.
It's mixed in here with other electrical I did
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10214499714471188&type=3

If I were to do it again I would start with a rugged Automotive/HD relay fuse box like this:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/460...BRADEiwAVMDdHi1REwvTp34U1X_4BQNfCDhIlZH2wIE18GZhmSyrAmtItCfQCYPr9hoCUEcQAvD_BwE
And the panels such as yours have limited space for Carling style switches I would use smaller like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFPKSKY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_y-CGFb8DYVVJM
They only control the relay so there is no need for 20 amp Carling switches, the relays draw less than 1 amp (~700 milliamps) each.
This also means the control cable does not need to be 14/16 AWG, I used two pre-fabricated communications cables 24AWG x 15 pin.

Sea Ray does not list the wiring for the 2001 280 Sundancer, but the parts book shows the 2002 is the same EIM part numbers, although the switch panels are different shapes.
I would be interested in fabricating such a system as plug n play as possible to see the feasibility of marketing it.
An Eaton box, plus adaptor harness to the Sea Ray 40 Pin connectors, one or two small plug in cables would run to the helm.

At that end would need to decide how you want to layout switches and how fancy a panel you want.
Backlighting for example would require an engraved laminate which I can not do at this time. But various shops can.

If interested let me know here or by PM.
either way good luck!!
Pat Hughes

Only just saw this how far have you gotten?
We recently discussed this here:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/eim-can-bus-advantages-disadvantages.97361
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...dex.php?threads/blink-marine-electronic-interface-module-eim-replacement.96086/

Bottom line is options are DIY, by new replacement system from SeaRay approx $6000, replacement from FP Marine approx $1500 - $3700
plus possible labor.
SeaRay = very expensive
FPM = better price, but it extends all the power circuits up to the helm (and back) this is a lot of power cable for the Aft EIM in particular.
This could be crowded in the helm for any future repairs or electronic upgrades.

My 300DA is pre-EIM, but in rewiring it I took a similar approach to reduce the power wiring under the helm.
Low power/voltage switches and a relay/circuit breaker box. All off the shelf parts, very inexpensive, maybe $450 plus my time.
And the most expensive part was 20 Carling switches About $200 right there.
It's mixed in here with other electrical I did
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10214499714471188&type=3

If I were to do it again I would start with a rugged Automotive/HD relay fuse box like this:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/460...BRADEiwAVMDdHi1REwvTp34U1X_4BQNfCDhIlZH2wIE18GZhmSyrAmtItCfQCYPr9hoCUEcQAvD_BwE
And the panels such as yours have limited space for Carling style switches I would use smaller like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFPKSKY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_y-CGFb8DYVVJM
They only control the relay so there is no need for 20 amp Carling switches, the relays draw less than 1 amp (~700 milliamps) each.
This also means the control cable does not need to be 14/16 AWG, I used two pre-fabricated communications cables 24AWG x 15 pin.

Sea Ray does not list the wiring for the 2001 280 Sundancer, but the parts book shows the 2002 is the same EIM part numbers, although the switch panels are different shapes.
I would be interested in fabricating such a system as plug n play as possible to see the feasibility of marketing it.
An Eaton box, plus adaptor harness to the Sea Ray 40 Pin connectors, one or two small plug in cables would run to the helm.

At that end would need to decide how you want to layout switches and how fancy a panel you want.
Backlighting for example would require an engraved laminate which I can not do at this time. But various shops can.

If interested let me know here or by PM.
either way good luck!!
Pat Hughes

How did this work out for you, sir. I have the same problem on my 2002 280. We just replaced the block, and after one break in ride I lost all the controls on the right side of the steering wheel. Any ideas? products (it sounded like you were thinking of marketing yours), or other advice?

 

I know this thread is a little old. I want to wire a second button for the new horn and not use the searay one. Can I pull power from the side of the EIM where the battery comes in? I will have a fused line coming from the relay.

 

Yes, That is how I powered my navigation electronics on the 280. I was fortunate to have a rocker switch cut out on the helm (single engine, two engine ignition switch cutouts). I used a heavy duty rocker (w same gauge wire) to connect to the main power post on the helm EIM. That connecetd to a Blue Seas fuse block. I also ran a same gauge ground wire to the negative post on the same EIM to create a common ground buss bar.

 

Just in case anyone is looking to replace their EIM system, Kinequip is making a system only sold by Sea Ray dealers, and it is warranted for 5 years. It’s a bit pricey, but is truly plug and play.