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AC 260 Sundancer

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11K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  Lazy Daze  
#1 ·
I have a 1999 26 Sundancer. I would like to add a AC unit on board. I have a few questions. What size AC unit would be appropriate for a boat my size. Where would the factory vents be located on the boat. Since my boating season is only 5 months and I would only use AC half of the time because of the outside temps, What would be a low cost option for AC units.
 
#2 ·
Stock BTU was probably about 7K (and would have been a reverse cycle machine, offering heat as well. It would have located under the starboard v-berth cushion. I think the outlets would have been above the hanging locker and in the mid-cabin. But, you can certainly feel free to do it any way you wanted to. Take a look in your manual (or download it from SR's site) and you can visually see where it would have been.

Since you can only use the compressor when you're in a slip (you'd need a professionally installed, onboard genny to do it on the hook), a better option might be to simply use a Cruiseair unit. It's made by Dometic and is a very popular thing for pocket cruisers. You can often find these on Craigslist for $400. Google it, but the jist is that it's a compact AC (only) unit that fits into the deck hatch. It can store onboard when you get under way, or leave it at your dock.
 
#14 ·
You can often find these on Craigslist for $400
You might also try the classified section of boating forums. Don't forget about sailing forums.

More often than not, people get rid of them because they moved up to a bigger boat (that had built-in AC). I would highly doubt you'll find any warranty on a used product. In that case, you'd have to pony up and go new. But, you would test it out before you buy it, right?
 
#3 · (Edited)
I agree with what Dennis posed above.

I’d like to add a bit of reality. An installed marine unit will cost you about $3,000 if you install it or about $4,000 if you have it done. If you do this, keep in mind this will add very little to your resale value.

The over the hatch unit portable AC unit Dennis mentioned is an option. About $1,000 new or ???? used.

Another option is something called a portable air conditioner, about $300 brand new from Best Buy or similar stores. Advantage is low cost. Disadvantage is it takes up space inside your small cabin. You vent the clothes dryer style vent out a port window when you use it, take the vent down when you are done.

As Dennis mentioned above, all of these options only work at the dock unless you are going to add a marine generator, cost for the generator with installation runs about $9,000 - $11,000.
 
#4 ·
I did one to the very same boat 10 years ago. Worth every $$ to me living in FL. I put a 9000BTU in, it went under the V birth. Not a bad job. It also had a heat strip in it.
Got it from Tom @flagship marine .com

Nice helpful guy.

Mike
 
#5 ·
Thanks Mike I checked out Flagship products and they seem to be good quality. Has anyone had any experiance with Mermaid Marine Air products. Will a 5000 size unit work or should I upgrade to a 7000 unit. Keep in mind I usually boat on the great lakes where the water temp is always cold and the air temp rarely reaches 80 F.
 
#6 ·
Thanks Mike I checked out Flagship products and they seem to be good quality. Has anyone had any experiance with Mermaid Marine Air products. Will a 5000 size unit work or should I upgrade to a 7000 unit. Keep in mind I usually boat on the great lakes where the water temp is always cold and the air temp rarely reaches 80 F.
I had a Mermaid M6 (6500 btu) unit installed in my 240DA last year. Before purchasing, I compared to the Mermaid M5 unit at 5000 btu, offered at the same price. The M6 is slightly larger in size and provides reverse cycle heat which works surprisingly well. On my 240DA, the M6 was installed behind a panel in the aft cabin so no loss of storage space. One vent in the v-berth and another in the aft cabin.

The M6 has provided more than enough cold air for the 240DA even when temperatures reached 90+ degrees. Could have gotten away with the M5 for my boat; however, I went with the M6 because the price was the same, it had reverse cycle heat, and I wasn't sure 5000 btu would suffice.

In my opinion, for the 260DA, you want more than 5000 btu. If you go with Mermaid, the M6 (or newer equivalent) would be a good choice, especially considering your climate and the minimal difference in price.
 
#7 ·
On my old 27, I installed a Mermaid reverse cycle unit...I think it was a 9000 BTU unit.
Had it for a few years and it worked well and never let me down.
The hardest part can be running the duct work and seawater inlet hoses into the cabin.
I will never again have a cabin not climate controlled...it is nice.
 
#9 ·
has anyone tried using portable air-conditioners on their boats. I was going to vent it out the window on the port side. I am just finding it difficult to justify spending 2k on a air conditioner that is used just a few times a year. If I lived in a hot humid climate like Florida I would install a AC unit without hesitation.
 
#10 ·
hmmm


......Another option is something called a portable air conditioner, about $300 brand new from Best Buy or similar stores. Advantage is low cost. Disadvantage is it takes up space inside your small cabin. You vent the clothes dryer style vent out a port window when you use it, take the vent down when you are done.........
 
#11 ·
I was just wondering if anyone has done this. I know many people have talked about it. I was just wondering if the $300 AC unit works just as good as the $2000 AC unit. If anyone has any experience with this let me know. I am a bit skeptical of these. My 2 major concerns are, The exhaust air getting to hot and damaging the window, the moisture leaving the hose and dripping into the cabin.
 
#12 ·
The prior owner of my boat used one. He said it worked fine. Let's face it, the cabin of a pocket cruiser isn't all that big. He asked if I wanted it along with the boat. I said no thank you. Personally, I'd go with a Cruisair. A used cruisair is about the same price as what Doug (It is Doug, right?) mentioned for a portable. Plus, when you're using it, it is not in the cabin.

If you do go the porta unit way, as long as you keep the drip pan and hose clear, you won't have a problem. The prior owner ran the hose into the step-down pump. The exhaust won't be so hot that it harms anything.
 
#13 ·
Where would be a good place to find a used one. I am real afraid of buying a used one since it does not make sense to replace yours unless it is broken. But if I can buy one knowing that the sell has some type of warranty or guarantee backing their product.
 
#15 ·
Another vote for the Cruise-Air hatch air conditioner. I have used one of these on my 215EC for years. I plug into shorepower when available and power it with a Coleman 1850 watt generator when swinging on the hook. Works well, I am not sure I would try this in bad weather though. I considered installing a permanent A/C in our boat, but thought I would try the portable one first. After using it a few seasons, I decided that the expense and work to install a permanent A/C would not be worth the trouble. Good luck with whatever you decide to do!
 
#16 ·
Another vote for the Cruise-Air hatch air conditioner. I have used one of these on my 215EC for years. I plug into shorepower when available and power it with a Coleman 1850 watt generator when swinging on the hook.
Well at least you don't use a Honda generator, some people on the forum say those are bad for your health.:smt043

Anyways, I will go with a permanent air conditioner, as long as I can get one with everything I need for under $1,200. I have been looking at units on ebay and I found a few good deals. I have two questions, When is a good time to start to look for deals for AC units online? does anyone know where I can find some refurbished units at a discounted price?
 
#18 ·
I found a good deal on a webasto 5000 BTU unit, I have to act tonight. does anyone have any experience with these?
 
#19 ·
I just bought a brand new Webasto 5000 BTU reverse cycle w/ digital controls for $800 now I need a few things like the water pump and ducting. Does anyone know what size water pump I would need? I found some for $95 and some for $450 I assume that the expensive ones are designed for saltwater use and the cheaper ones are for Freshwater.
 
#21 ·
I just bought a brand new Webasto 5000 BTU reverse cycle w/ digital controls for $800 now I need a few things like the water pump and ducting. Does anyone know what size water pump I would need? I found some for $95 and some for $450 I assume that the expensive ones are designed for saltwater use and the cheaper ones are for Freshwater.

Good find. Thats what mine came with. Mine developed a leak in the coil and now I have a new 7k installed two yrs ago.
 
#20 ·
Can't help with what size pump you need. But, if it was me, I'd probably go straight to Webasto.
 
#22 ·
So... I have the AC unit, ducting, hoses, and water pump. But I am having a hard time trying to hunt down a breaker switch for the AC unit that will be mounted on the control panel. I want it to match the other black/ white switches. Does anyone know where I could find a switch?

Also Where would be a good location to mount the controller? I was going to mount it below the vent above the Cabinet door but I was not sure if the controller has the thermostat built into it. If it does have a built in stat that would be a bad spot for the controller.

I will have to fabricate a shelf for the unit below the seat does anyone have a picture of how their unit is mounted?

One more question, I took off the panels to have access behind the aftcabin and I am trying to figure out how to fit 4" insulated ducting through the 3" gap that is behind the head. Is there a different direction I should go with the ducting or should I just take the insulation off and squeeze the ducting to have an oval shape?

I thought I would just note that the directions that came with the unit are worthless. :smt021
 
#23 ·
The last time I bought a breaker, I bought it through the dealership (Sea Ray) to make sure I get a matching one. I can't say for sure, but I think it was either a Blue Seas or a Carling.
 
#24 ·
Thanks, I found the switches though Great Lakes Skipper. They are Carling. So the unit draws 4.4 amps plus the water pump of 1.1 amps for a Total of 5.5 amps. I was told to take that number and multiply it by 2.5 and use that size breaker. So would a 15 amp Breaker be the correct one to use then?
 
#25 ·
Andy I use a Mini-puppy Jabsco pump for circulating the coolant on my hydronic heater. It works well and is 12VDC. I'm not sure if you're adding a 120VAC pump for your A/C or not.