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We bought our new to us 2005 340 Sundancer last fall and I just came across this thread recently. It has a wealth of information and I want to thank all the knowledgeable owners who have shared their experience and expertise. It's uncanny how many peculiarities we've wondered about that others have discussed and often times corrected via this thread.
 
The seats on either side are dedicated to storage. The center seat has the water tank in it....

Dale
Dale, I'm talking about the seat up front. You just told me the seat on starboard side of the bed is filled with foam and the water tank is in the floor of the mid stateroom.
Why would Sea Ray fill that seat with foam and not storage?
 
I meant, in the mid stateroom, there are three storage areas. The ones to either side are storage, while the one in the middle, athwartships, is where the water tank is.

Forward, just aft and to starboard of the V-berth, there is a little seat (one person sized). Under that seat, the compartment is filled with foam, and there is no access. Due to the shape of the hull, there is less space under that seat than appears. Also, the foam helps to stiffen the hull in a high stress area.

Dale
 
I meant, in the mid stateroom, there are three storage areas. The ones to either side are storage, while the one in the middle, athwartships, is where the water tank is.

Forward, just aft and to starboard of the V-berth, there is a little seat (one person sized). Under that seat, the compartment is filled with foam, and there is no access. Due to the shape of the hull, there is less space under that seat than appears. Also, the foam helps to stiffen the hull in a high stress area.

Dale
Thanks Dale, I tried to access that space too, and was unsuccessful... One of my many unanswered questions is now answered... See you in July at LLM...
 
I have a horn that does not work, I have a tac that is screwy, I have very slow leak somewhere in my engine room only when my boat is moving, and I can never remember how to use my haler, those are just some of my "boat" unanswered questions... I am a bit OCD so little things bother me, but I am trying not sweat the small stuff, and be happy the boat runs....
 
On the back of your tachometers, there is a selector switch for the number of cylinders - it is black, if I recall correctly. Rotate it back and forth several times, then return it to it's previous setting. Doing so cleans the contacts, and often restores a tach to proper operation. If it reads high, but your sync gauge still works, this is very likely the culprit.

The horn should be easy - remove the housing, and verify that the horn is getting power when the switch is depressed. If yes, the horn is dead. If not, it is very likely dirty contacts in the Carling switch on the dashboard. I have had these apart many times, and we can check the switch contacts at LL, if you like.

The slow leak in the engine room - I need more info. Could be a shaft seal starting to let go - Tides Marine recommends replacement approximately every 6 years, so if yours was done back in 2006 or so, you are due. If it is engine related, can you provide a bit more information? Could be a heat exchanger, or other raw water related component.

I can't help with the haler - your memory is beyond my control!!!

Dale
 
Thanks Dale, I will try the method you mentioned with the tac... It is reading high...

I did what you recommend with horn... It is an aftermarket electrical horn, and its dead. The aflack horn still works, so for now its just a pretty shinny thing on my arch.

I have new tides shaft seals (2010)... I think the leaks might be from the zincs on my hitech manifolds, or the new tides seals are leaking... The leak is raw water and not consequential enough to get too concerned, I hope.

Thanks for the advise...



On the back of your tachometers, there is a selector switch for the number of cylinders - it is black, if I recall correctly. Rotate it back and forth several times, then return it to it's previous setting. Doing so cleans the contacts, and often restores a tach to proper operation. If it reads high, but your sync gauge still works, this is very likely the culprit.

The horn should be easy - remove the housing, and verify that the horn is getting power when the switch is depressed. If yes, the horn is dead. If not, it is very likely dirty contacts in the Carling switch on the dashboard. I have had these apart many times, and we can check the switch contacts at LL, if you like.

The slow leak in the engine room - I need more info. Could be a shaft seal starting to let go - Tides Marine recommends replacement approximately every 6 years, so if yours was done back in 2006 or so, you are due. If it is engine related, can you provide a bit more information? Could be a heat exchanger, or other raw water related component.

I can't help with the haler - your memory is beyond my control!!!

Dale
 
Anything on my sloping seats?

Thanks
Not sure, I have different seats on my model... This might be a common problem with 380 model year as well. You might have more luck posting a new thread...
 
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