Zinc vs. Aluminum Anodes for Salt Water

CaptainJoeLuke

New Member
Dec 5, 2012
4
Hillsborough, NJ - Boating LBI
Boat Info
2000 290 Amberjack & 1996 23' Wellcraft CC
Engines
Twin 5.7L w/BIIIs
For the last 20 years I've used Zincs on all my boats which are kept in the Barnegat Bay. The boat stay in the water from April to November and is hooked up to shore power. Now I'm being told to use Aluminum. What is going to protect the best.
 
VERY generally speaking, the Al made by (or for) top-brand retailers (not the cheapie stuff) is usually a better choice, overall. But if that's the ONLY water you stay in, then Zn is a great choice, too. However, the best answer to your question is another question... Are you satisfied with the level of protection you're currently getting? If so, don't change. Stick with what is working for you, your boat and your waters. Don't fix something that ain't broke.
 
Always use aluminum in salt water on your bravo III drives - as above stick with a good brand like martyr
 
I've asked myself the same and have always gone with Aluminum based on the info here: http://www.boatzincs.com/pdfs/Chart_A-Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use.pdf





Now, I am looking to replace the engine anodes in my twin Cat 3116s, and I only see an option for Zinc on boatzincs.com. I don't know if there's an issue with using both, does anyone know?

This is my first time replacing them, I only took delivery of the boat a month ago, so I'm not sure how long ago they were replaced. Having seen the maintenance records of everything else, the previous owner was very meticulous, so I'm sure it was pretty recent.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
I've asked myself the same and have always gone with Aluminum based on the info here: http://www.boatzincs.com/pdfs/Chart_A-Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use.pdf





Now, I am looking to replace the engine anodes in my twin Cat 3116s, and I only see an option for Zinc on boatzincs.com. I don't know if there's an issue with using both, does anyone know?

This is my first time replacing them, I only took delivery of the boat a month ago, so I'm not sure how long ago they were replaced. Having seen the maintenance records of everything else, the previous owner was very meticulous, so I'm sure it was pretty recent.

Thanks,
Kevin


Your not not supposed to mix the two but ,only alum on thrusters. Quoted from boatzincs.com
Q: I was under the impression that one was not to mix aluminum and zinc anodes on a boat. If aluminum is only available for my Imtra thruster should I switch the others to aluminum?

A: Imtra Side-Power thrusters are engineered to have their underwater metals electrically isolated from the rest of the boat. This means that there is no electrical path available for the thruster (or its anodes) to interact with any other underwater metals (or anodes) either on or adjacent to your boat. You can, and should, continue to use zinc anodes elsewhere on your boat while upgrading your Imtra Side-Power thruster to these new, technically superior aluminum anodes.
 
If you switch, make sure you switch them all. For the 2014 season on the metedeconk river, I used what was on the boat when I bought it. Apparently some of the anodes were zinc while others were aluminum. The big gimbal anode on my alpha was barely touched, while all the rest were trashed after one season, and the drive took a beating as well.

Last year I used all aluminum, and the drive fared much better. All the anodes need to be replaced again this year, but they did their job.
 
The guys at boat zincs.com are great. I've been able to speak directly with the owner on a number of occasions. I highly recommend getting the silver chloride tester and a cheap multimeter. They walked me through its use and I am able to be very confident on the protection level for the underwater metals.

I am curious as to what makes a good anode vs a not good. I used to run all Mercury which I am sure is great but I wanted to give boat zincs my business so I switched to Martyr.
 

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