ZF Hurth Transmission - Filter

W

wakerider09

New Member
Mar 26, 2014
14
Windsor, Ontario
Boat Info
340 Sundancer(2005)
Engines
T-VD 8.1s Horizons
The ZF Hurth transmission's i have in my 340 Sundancer are the following model, they have a steel filter... can this filter be cleaned as opposed to replaced, and if so, what is the proper way to clean it?

ZF 63 IV - 2.0
Ratio I A=1.99 B=2.03
S/N 16477P
P/N 3312003014

Thanks in advance.
 
Yes clean it. Get a plastic bowl with snap on lid. Fill with mineral spirits. Place filter in and agitate. Remove and air dry...re-install.
 
Thanks... I just heard back from ZF Hurth and they are telling me I need to change it, but I'm thinking they are just trying to make a sale and it's the 'safe' answer to give. Have you personally cleaned your filters and re-used them?
 
wakerider09 said:
Thanks... I just heard back from ZF Hurth and they are telling me I need to change it, but I'm thinking they are just trying to make a sale and it's the 'safe' answer to give. Have you personally cleaned your filters and re-used them?
Click to expand...

Yes.......for 7 years.

Examine filter and housing for metal particulate which could indicate trouble (I never found any).
 
What ATF Fluid are you using? We have Hurth HSW 630 v1's which are the predecessors to the ZF 63 IV.
 
Question: 2000 340 7.4.L 3rd Owner. Changed my fluids (Dex III) on my Hurth V Drives. Don’t think they have been changed in a long time, if ever. Do I need a friction additive? The last few times pulling out we had to give a little gas to engage.
 
D Bell said:
Question: 2000 340 7.4.L 3rd Owner. Changed my fluids (Dex III) on my Hurth V Drives. Don’t think they have been changed in a long time, if ever. Do I need a friction additive? The last few times pulling out we had to give a little gas to engage.
Click to expand...

no additive necessary. Sounds like shifting pressure is low, the pump might not be hitting proper pressure at lower rpm. Does it stay engaged once you goose it or is it slipping?
 
Question: changed my fluids
Strecker25 said:
no additive necessary. Sounds like shifting pressure is low, the pump might not be hitting proper pressure at lower rpm. Does it stay engaged once you goose it or is it slipping?
Click to expand...
it stays engaged. Only happens on the initial start. After running a while, it goes in and out of gear easily.
 
D Bell said:
Question: changed my fluids

it stays engaged. Only happens on the initial start. After running a while, it goes in and out of gear easily.
Click to expand...
…….and it’s just a tiny amount of “goose” that gets it engaged.
 
D Bell said:
Question: changed my fluids

it stays engaged. Only happens on the initial start. After running a while, it goes in and out of gear easily.
Click to expand...

Increase the revs slightly before shifting and see if it positively engages, you might be borderline pressure at low RPMs

the better test is to get a gauge on it and make sure the pressure is at spec
 
Strecker25 said:
Increase the revs slightly before shifting and see if it positively engages, you might be borderline pressure at low RPMs

the better test is to get a gauge on it and make sure the pressure is at spec
Click to expand...
Or there is air getting in the hydraulic circuit - like from the filter cap.
Whatever you do @D Bell do not run the boat if the drive does not firmly go into gear. The clutches may be slipping and generating huge heat and will warp the clutch plates - then you'll be in a heap of trouble. A $4 O-ring causes a $4000 gear replacement.
 
ttmott said:
Or there is air getting in the hydraulic circuit - like from the filter cap.
Whatever you do @D Bell do not run the boat if the drive does not firmly go into gear. The clutches may be slipping and generating huge heat and will warp the clutch plates - then you'll be in a heap of trouble. A $4 O-ring causes a $4000 gear replacement.
Click to expand...
It positively engages after the first slight, very slight push to engage and runs strong. Backing into the slip, it’s perfect through the gears at idle. It’s just that first cold start. Started right after the fluid change.
 
Could also be low on fluid. You're not supposed to screw in the dipstick to check level (if it's that type). You're also supposed to run the boat in neutral for 2 minutes at around 1500 rpm. Then shut down and immediately check the fluid level.
 
douglee25 said:
Could also be low on fluid. You're not supposed to screw in the dipstick to check level (if it's that type). You're also supposed to run the boat in neutral for 2 minutes at around 1500 rpm. Then shut down and immediately check the fluid.l level.
Click to expand...
Will do/check that tomorrow. Is it ok to pull the filters and clean them again? Did so when they were empty/drained for new fluids.
 
D Bell said:
Will do/check that tomorrow. Is it ok to pull the filters and clean them again? Did so when they were empty/drained for new fluids.
Click to expand...

Sure. It won't harm anything to clean again. When you have the filter stack complete and you're reassembling, lean on it with your hand to put pressure on the top while you tighten the hex screw. You should see the top draw down tightly towards the case. And make sure you lube that big o-ring before reassembly.
 
if you suspect leaking O-ring - i usually put a little ATF around the top cover and run it, if the ATF disappears you have a leak big enough to pull in air
 
If there's a gap between the filter cap and the body of the drive, the oring is likely fine.
 
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