Y Exhaust Pipe on a 2001 240DA

jellyfish

New Member
Aug 8, 2007
124
Miami, Florida
Boat Info
24 Sundancer 2001
Engines
5.0 EFI, BIII
Sea water has been entering my bilge through the transom for a while. It seems that every time I go out I get more water. I have looked everywhere, pulled the drive out, check the bellows, ect. … A called the local MM dealer and they think that it may be the Y exhaust pipe that could be corroded at the base where it screws on to the transom plate..

This job is way over my head since I don’t have the equipment to pull the engine to get to the y pipe.

So the questions is, has someone in the forum suffered from this. If so, How much pain did it cost??

Alex
 
It gets worse, then if the corrosion on the aluminum plate or pipe is bad enough, not only do you get to pay for the labor, but you also get to pay for a new pipe and plate because the old ones won't seal anymore.

My marina had the equipment to pull the engine of my previous, sterndrive boat. He let me use his hoist. My current marina uses a fork lift. When I pulled my genny, I did the work, but the marina's forklift guy dropped in the genset. Cost only $100 for his time, including tip.

Best regards,
Frank
 
Yes I've heard about it. It does sound like time to replace it. I was fortunate that the dealer installed a new one on mine when they had the engine out to replace the outdrive.
Best of luck
 
Brand new boat, had a very slow leak that nobody could figure out what was going on. Well, after one cold day with the boat in a dry rack this winter, the leak(s) became very much more pronounced... I had water on the cabin floor. After checking all the usual suspects, the mechanic closed himself in the engine compartment with a flashlight. First thing found, the Y-pipe. Off came the drive, out came the engine and the seals were replaced (it was still brand new and only in freshwater). I still had a leak, which ended up being the trim tabs mounting... they ended up getting removed, cleaned, fay-surface sealed, wet installed fasteners and bee-hived on the nut side. Now I'm dry!

The Y-pipe was a big job. They were surprised that I wanted to see the boat all torn up... but I knew they were good mechanics. A couple of wires ended up not getting reattached though (like the drive trim). It took a few seconds to take care of the pickups as I had stopped at the dock to look at the new 55DA. I guess the moral is... expect the first time out to do a through shakedown.

As it was all under warrantee, I have no idea what they would have charged.
 
Jim..

Great to hear that your repair was under warranty. Im hearing very high numbers when it comes to pull the engine out.. The problem is when its put back! Hope all cables are connected & connected properly. I was quaoted $1000~1200 just to pull and reinstall the engine + parts and other goodies. (Now that the engine is out, I should go ahead and replace .....)

You brought up an interesting point, the trim tab manifold (I guess this is what you are refering too) was replaced not to long ago. Im going to retorque the bolts just to make sure...

The great life of boating!!!!
 
The tabs themselves have bolts that attach through the transom, as well as the actuators. Retorque might not be enough, in fact on my boat you can't retorque now that the nuts and protruding stud are bee-hived in sealant.

To seal anything, a good surface prep goes a long way. Then a thin layer of sealant between the two surfaces (faying surfaces). If there's an edge, a fillet seal around the edge helps. Then if the fastener is installed with wet sealant, that helps fill the hole. Then you can wait a bit and after squeeze out and a bit of set of the fay surface sealant, you can retorque. Then build a bee-hive and you've done just about everything... just like a nice big airplane!
 

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