Wrenches?

skibum

Well-Known Member
Jul 30, 2007
2,769
Perry Hall, MD
Boat Info
2005 Sundancer 260
Engines
496 Magnum HO
I've only had my boat since July 29th and I have not yet had the need to get any wrenches out yet. I was thinking about putting some of my "extra" tools on the boat before taking a trip this weekend.

Stupid question: Does my 2005 260DA use standard or metric hardware?

I sure hope that it's not like my 94 GMS Somoma pickup that uses metric and standard sizes mixed up all over the place. In some cases they mixed fastener types side by side on the same part or assembly. :smt013

Thanks,
Michael
 
It will be mostly standard. The place where they use meteric is the power steering pump and the flame arresters. A decent set of open ends, 3/8 sockets and metric 10mm through 15mm along with a cresent wrench and chanel locks is a good kit. Screw drivers too.
Brad
Pflieger Marine Services.
www.marinediscounters.com
 
Anyone know what size wrenches to pull the props on a 340? I'm going to dive to do it, and I'd rather get it right the first time. I'll have to buy them. I don't own wrenches that big.
 
do you have a local dealer with a 340 on a trailer....if so...do a dry run determining how things come apart....wear your dive gear for realism.
 
Hampton,
Working in the marine service world for some time I do not know if I would recommend diving. There are two nuts that hold each prop in place, plus the cotter pin that needs to be pulled. When I have done this in the past (on land) I would use a piece of wood to lock the prop into place against the hull and break the bolts loose. Then use a "prop puller" to break the prop loose from the shaft (there have even been cases where a torch has been required to heat the prop up to break it loose). It may be easier to do this in a hoist.
I would be concerned about getting the job halfway there and running into problems and have to put things back together to get to a hoist to finish the job.
 
Merc makes a wrench specifically for that application.

Rumrunner is right, you really should perform that operation on dry land. I thought of doing the samething on my dad's fishing boat, then thought of all the bad that would happen, and pulled it out of the water. Was really easy at that point. Probably took 15 minutes at most. No lost parts, no fighting waves/wakes...
 
I've considered pulling the boat out, but the truth is, the props have been pulled twice this year. Once, they were pulled and tuned at a place in S. Fl. before I cruised home. The second time was when I had the bottom paint done. It's been since then that I have figured out that the port prop has probably been shaved down from the original size, most likely when I had them "tuned" in S. Fl - Bastards.

I'd hate to have to pull the boat a third time just to check the tuning of the port prop.
 
My props were off for the winter and the yard (MM) put them back on for my March launch. Sometime about a month and half later, I bought a new set of spares and had them prop scanned so I wanted to put the new props on the boat. I had the boat hauled and two yard hands, with a huge hydraulic prop removal machine, took about an hour to get both props off and the new props on. These props were only on the shafts for short time!

I wouldn't even consider doing this in the water....even with scuba.

I posted some pics somewhere here....
 
It's definitely not for the amateur diver. I also think it depends on the size of the boat. A diver could change the props on my 380 but I tried to get a diver to change a prop for me on the 480 and it was useless. Ever since then, I just limp to the nearest boat lift. I also learned the first time I had it done that you should carry extra cotter pins (they are massive) because there is no guarantee the boat lift place out in the sticks will have new ones and they'll break or lose the old ones.
 
People change props out in the water all the time. I do it myself with Scuba gear or you can hire a local diver for much less than the cost of pulling the boat. Rarely does anyone encounter a situation where they cannot remove the props while in the water. No big deal.
 
You guys are shocking me that you can change the props in the water. I've done it on my I/O boats, but every time I've had them removed on any of the 4 Inboard boats I've owned, the yard has either had to use a torch or the hydraulic machine.

Maybe props just come off easier in the water.....or I need to eat more Weaties...
 
I'm with you Dominic... They always take a torch to my shafts to get them off....
 
Torches? I use a large prop puller, torque it down, and tap it with a hammer and all hell breaks loose. On that note, DON'T take the nut all the way off! It's a long swim to the surface with one of those props. I wish I hadn't been changing props as often as I have.....
 
John,

It will take a specialized prop puller as well as wrenches and there is no substitute for the prop puller. Rob Johnson @ Pow R' Scrub ..866-3043 after about 10AM. He's a good guy and is both competent and honest, and he's who I use, not that it matters.

This one is more about having the equipment and experience than just being able to get under the boat and do the work. Rob usually charges $75 to $100 depending upon timing, cash or bill sent, and the size shaft. He probably has several boats at Tyndall under contract for bottom cleaning so catch him close by and let him work it in and its cheaper than if he makes a special trip. Rob can also run the props over to Marine Wheels and pick them up for you if you want.

Good luck with it.........
 
Ad these to your tool bag as you can:

Canvas tool bag(s) (saves decks)
Telescoping inspection mirror
Telescoping parts and tool retrieval tool Magnetic or spring claw
Filter wrench
Wire brush(s) for battery terminal cleaning, parts cleaning and rust removal
Roll of self amalgamating teflon tape
Teflon Pipe thread sealing tape (thick Mil type)
Small voltage meter
Small tube of Dielectric grease
Small tube of Super Grease
Roll of 3M DUCT tape (or best brand available)
A cold steel chisel/scribe/punch set
A screw & bolt extractor set
A nut cracker

There is a seller of budget priced tools you should "Bond" with and they sell on the web. www DOT harborfreight DOT com


Chad
 

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