Working with teak

[CaptainH]

I have several projects to get started on including building some new teak doors and trim pieces and getting some of the existing teak trim looking better. I am not sure as to bast way to finish/re-finish. :huh: These pieces will be exposed. There is lots of advise on the net (most want to sell you something) but I hoped for some good practical experiance from some of the people here, I have seen pictures of some of the excellent re-work that has been done. I will be using SS nails and exterior grade glue for joinery. I have some rails and other pieces that have some kind of ugly finish on them that I will try to sand down to bare wood again. Leave natural, oil or a glossy type of finish product? What are the best products? I have done a lot of woodworking but not with teak on a boat before. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[Sorrento 25]

Sanding and a good cleaner works wonders to restore any teak but maintaining it oiled gets old fast. I used satin Cetol on my last boat and wish I had done it again this time. I still have that teak and it looks as good as it did when I refinished it many years ago. I think I have invested twice as much time in maintenance already as I would have spent up front applying the Cetol finish and I regret not doing it again.

Microfiber towels do work well for cleaning/reoiling oiled teak.

 

[BillyT0020]

I agree about Oil, you have to do it so much to keep the teak looking nice that it gets old and doesn't compare to the Stain/varnish look. Your going to have to sand it down to bare wood regardless of what you do. I used Sikkans Natural Teak Stain and their Cetol Gloss. Makes the wood look brand new and lasts 3 years (from what im told). IMO its the best you can make teak look.

 

[fwebster]

The exterior glue and nails thing bothers me. Teak assemblys used on a boat should be both mechanically fastened with screws and with epoxy. The screw holes should be plugged with teak plugs then sanded and prepped for whatever finish you are applying.

 

[Henry Boyd]

The exterior glue and nails thing bothers me. Teak assemblys used on a boat should be both mechanically fastened with screws and with epoxy. The screw holes should be plugged with teak plugs then sanded and prepped for whatever finish you are applying.

+1

In addition:

Before gluing clean all surfaces with Acetone to remove the oil. If you get good teak (as in a good grade) when you cut it the oil will be evident as the 'dust' will clump together. ALso if you plan on using a finish that will stick to the surface (varnish, poly etc) then you will also have to clean with Acetone before painting as well.


For cutting the plugs, Rockler sells a series of cutters that will allow you to make the plugs from the scraps of the same stock as your project.

Henry

 

[tobnpr]

The oil/sealer/varnish debate is a matter of preference.
And, it depends on your climate as well.
I've found that teak oil doesn't hold up very well in the summer Florida sun. A few weeks to a month or so, and it needs to be re-done. Too much of PITA for me.
The sun is also very tough on varnish finishes, but I decided on the following system which has worked very well for me.

Sand/prep to bare wood, use a tack rag to get rid of all the sanding dust.

Apply three coats of West System epoxy with 207 Clear Hardener. Provides quick, heavy buildup with minimal coats to get that deep, mirror finish.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/207-special-clear-hardener

Apply five to seven coats of Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss for UV protection and additional buildup. This product can be applied at one coat per day with no sanding required between coats.

http://www.epifanes.com/home.htm

An additional maintenance coat is required every few months (in FL). I've found that since I've added a mooring cover that keeps my covering boards out of the sun it's held up alot better (duh..).

 

[CaptainH]

I very much appreciate the advice here. I will be making the joinery I can with screws, epoxy and plugs as possible. I have rough sawn teak to work with and will be making all the shapes I need in my work shop (I build cabinets and other stuff to support my expensive boat & golf hobbies). Some of the designs I have in mind will also be putting some smaller pieces together, less than 1/4" cross section, and I can not see having a screw connection because plugs won't work to cover up on something so thin. Am I trying to make something that is to detailed and should stick to KISS?

The info on teak finishing was very helpful also.

 

[fwebster]

I always use West Systems on interior teak projects that get a high gloss finish because it significantly speed varnish built up, just as tobnpr recommended. However, if you use West as a first coat, you absolutely must remove the blush or your second coat will not dry in your first born's life time.