Wiring new stator in Kohler 5ECD

speakrdude

Well-Known Member
Feb 21, 2009
1,214
Northwest Arkansas
Boat Info
2002 Sea Ray 340 DA
Raymarine C80 Tri Data
Engines
twin 6.2 MX MPI
Finally received all the new parts/pieces and rewound stator. Everything pretty straight forward, but the stator output wires have me a bit confused. From the wire diagrams (below) it looks like wire 1-2-3 all get connected to lo (neutral) and #4 is the hot lead (to the circuit breaker. What is the general consensus of all the genny gurus? It is 120v/single phase.
Thanks
Kohler Stator.png
Kohler Stator.png
 
if your on facebook
join Sea ray classics and other classics. theres a guy ion there Dave lowery he is a kohler guru he rebuilds and sell parts. he is a great guy and easy to work with always giving out free advice. why did you have to replace the stator? im going to pull mine this winter samething no voltage hoping its something simple

Saverio
 
From the rebuilding company...
For a 120 volt connection, your leads should be connected:

1 and 3 - Neutral
2 and 4 - Together to breaker

You don't want to put 1-2-3 together or you will cause a short. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Dan O'Donnell
Broward Armature and Generator
 
Rebuilders say cause can simply be age. One of the slip rings was in really bad shape and the bearing was almost siezed.
So it was time.
Says it only had 140 hours but I am suspicious about that.
 
Hello,

I performed a rebuild 5ECD, but I didn't connect wires #2 and #4 together during assembly. When I started the generator, it shut off after about 5 seconds, and I noticed a burning smell. Now, when I start the generator, sparks come out of the ventilation holes. If I disconnect the contacts going to the brushes, there are no sparks. Could this have caused the stator to burn out? (didn't connect wires #2 and #4 together to breaker)
 
Hello,

I performed a rebuild 5ECD, but I didn't connect wires #2 and #4 together during assembly. When I started the generator, it shut off after about 5 seconds, and I noticed a burning smell. Now, when I start the generator, sparks come out of the ventilation holes. If I disconnect the contacts going to the brushes, there are no sparks. Could this have caused the stator to burn out? (didn't connect wires #2 and #4 together to breaker)
Welcome to CSR. @Stray Current may chime in and be able to help. You should complete your user profile as it may help you in many way's.
 
Hello,

I performed a rebuild 5ECD, but I didn't connect wires #2 and #4 together during assembly. When I started the generator, it shut off after about 5 seconds, and I noticed a burning smell. Now, when I start the generator, sparks come out of the ventilation holes. If I disconnect the contacts going to the brushes, there are no sparks. Could this have caused the stator to burn out? (didn't connect wires #2 and #4 together to breaker)
Where were 2 and 4 during the first start with sparks?

You could have smoked either the rotor or stator. Do you have a good ohmmeter and megaohmmeter?
 
Where were 2 and 4 during the first start with sparks?

You could have smoked either the rotor or stator. Do you have a good ohmmeter and megaohmmeter?
#2 was connected to the breaker (there was no load on it, essentially it was hanging in the air), and #4 was just hanging in the air between other wires, but it definitely didn't short with anything else.
I have a simple cheap and a good personal ohmmeter. The cheap one showed something around 1 ohm or close to a short between #2 of the stator and ground, #4 and ground showed about 2 ohms, between the brushes (beetwen rotor contacts) it showed something around 6 ohms. But tomorrow, I'll use the good personal one and take new measurements.
Could you tell me what the resistance should be? (I found only a guide for checking with a megohmmeter in the manual, but I don't have one).
When the brushes are disconnected, there is no excitation and no sparking either. I assume the problem is in one or both stator windings.
It's really frustrating; I couldn't even imagine that not connecting the stator winding contacts together could lead to such consequences.
 
#2 was connected to the breaker (there was no load on it, essentially it was hanging in the air), and #4 was just hanging in the air between other wires, but it definitely didn't short with anything else.
I have a simple cheap and a good personal ohmmeter. The cheap one showed something around 1 ohm or close to a short between #2 of the stator and ground, #4 and ground showed about 2 ohms, between the brushes (beetwen rotor contacts) it showed something around 6 ohms. But tomorrow, I'll use the good personal one and take new measurements.
Could you tell me what the resistance should be? (I found only a guide for checking with a megohmmeter in the manual, but I don't have one).
When the brushes are disconnected, there is no excitation and no sparking either. I assume the problem is in one or both stator windings.
It's really frustrating; I couldn't even imagine that not connecting the stator winding contacts together could lead to such consequences.
Truthfully it shouldn’t have done anything if they were just open, it was either defective or or perhaps the rotor quit. Were they rewinds?

if you go to the thread in my signature back a few pages ( within the last month) I posted the specs and values from the manual while I did my testing
 
Truthfully it shouldn’t have done anything if they were just open, it was either defective or or perhaps the rotor quit. Were they rewinds?

if you go to the thread in my signature back a few pages ( within the last month) I posted the specs and values from the manual while I did my testing
Thank you very much. I'll study that topic. Neither the stator nor the rotor have been rewound before. Tomorrow, I'll probably dismantle everything and take out the housing with the stator. Since the sparking was quite intense, the insulation must be clearly compromised somewhere there. I'll try to figure out the cause, that's probably the most important thing to avoid repeating it again.
 
Thank you very much. I'll study that topic. Neither the stator nor the rotor have been rewound before. Tomorrow, I'll probably dismantle everything and take out the housing with the stator. Since the sparking was quite intense, the insulation must be clearly compromised somewhere there. I'll try to figure out the cause, that's probably the most important thing to avoid repeating it again.

I am kind of leaning towards the rotor. With the coil being open, it would have gone full field trying to make and sense voltage and if you had compromised insulation on the rotor, that could certainly have found a weak spot and shorted and blew itself apart

I definitely wouldn’t be running it anymore. If the rotor is smoked and let molten copper out it could have compromised the stator, but it may not have.
 
I am kind of leaning towards the rotor. With the coil being open, it would have gone full field trying to make and sense voltage and if you had compromised insulation on the rotor, that could certainly have found a weak spot and shorted and blew itself apart

I definitely wouldn’t be running it anymore. If the rotor is smoked and let molten copper out it could have compromised the stator, but it may not have.
It was the stator. Also 1 of the winding has resistance to stator housing 350 ohms.
I assume that this could have happened due to water getting inside (this is just the lower part of the stator).
Can you recommend someone in South Florida for stator rewinding?
 

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It was the stator. Also 1 of the winding has resistance to stator housing 350 ohms.
I assume that this could have happened due to water getting inside (this is just the lower part of the stator).
Can you recommend someone in South Florida for stator rewinding?
 
Definitely looking a little rusty. What we are seeing with standby units that got salt. Spray during the hurricane is the iron laminations rust and swell, and then compromise the varnish and copper windings. And then, poof! Magic smoke
 

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